Anthony Gismondi: Best value B.C. wines for Canada Day

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Canada celebrates its 154th birthday next week, and I’m sure many Canadians will celebrate summer’s first big holiday with a glass of homegrown wine. In the age of same-day or next-day deliveries, you would think Canadian wine would flow freely across the country, but, unfortunately, it won’t and judging by provincial politics, it’s unlikely it ever will.

A century and a half later, the free movement of Canadian wine between provinces and territories remains mired in petty protectionism resulting in higher prices and less selection for all Canadians. It is a shameful situation, supported by weak-kneed politicians and powerful liquor monopolies that continue to back the blockade for no other reason than greed.

The lead offenders led by Ontario, Quebec and Alberta want their pound of flesh (tax), and they are not prepared to find a simple revenue-sharing solution with other jurisdictions. As a result, more than half the country’s producers will endure another July 1 celebration without coast-to-coast access to Canadian wine drinkers who only want to buy Canadian wine in Canada. It’s insane.

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But why spoil a long-awaited holiday quibbling over wine regulations that will never change and wines you can’t buy. Instead, we can drink 100 per cent British Columbia grown wine on Canada Day and revel in how far our producers have come.

Buying local isn’t a whole lot easier, but if you are persistent, you should be able to locate any wine worth drinking somewhere close to your home. The last resort is buying directly from the winery with an upside of a better selection and delivery to your front door.

Save-On-Foods grocery stores have quietly become the single largest retailer of B.C. wines, with more than 1,200 selections in 21 stores dwarfing the selection in government stores. You can also order online and have the wine delivered to your front door. Should you buy six bottles or a case of wine, there are attractive volume discounts and Save-on More points.

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You will find smaller amounts of B.C. wine in private wine shops. There is more detail there and deeper selections along with highly informed staff to help you out. You can also buy hard-to-find labels rarely seen outside of the winery.

Finally, BCLS stores carry a small selection of B.C. wine. The selection has improved of late. However, most B.C. winegrowers shun the monopoly route because the cost of selling it through government stores versus direct is just too much to swallow. Since we can’t change the rules, here is a short, considered list of the best value B.C. wines we have tasted this year. Remember, you can find value at all price points.

Sparkling: Tantalus Blanc de Blancs 2018 ($31.30); Lightning Rock Blanc de Noirs Canyonview Vineyard 2019 ($34.99); Blue Mountain Blanc de Blancs RD 2012 ($49.90).

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Whites: Mayhem Sauvignon Blanc 2020 ($15.65); Moraine Pinot Gris 2020 ($20); Summerhill Gewürztraminer Demeter Certified 2020 ($20); Clos du Soleil Winemaker’s Series Whispered Secret Vineyard Pinot Gris 2020 ($21.90); Hester Creek Old Vines Block 16 Trebbiano 2020 ($22.99).

Rosé: Grow Wild Ravishing Rosé 2020 ($16.99); Narrative Rosé 2019 ($17.49); Bartier Bros. Rosé 2020 ($17.99); Quails’ Gate Rosé 2020 ($18.99); Corcelettes Oracle Rosé 2020 ($19.90); Tantalus Rosé 2020 ($20.87); CedarCreek Pinot Noir Rosé 2020 ($20.99); Roche Rosé ($21.90).

Reds: Pentâge Winery Hiatus 2014 ($21.65); Mission Hill Reserve Merlot 2017 ($26.99); Modest Wines By Jove Sangiovese 2019 ($29.99); Blue Mountain Estate Cuvée Gamay Noir 2019 ($30); Roche Nuances 2018 ($32.19); Corcelettes Cabernet Franc 2018 ($33.90); Painted Rock Merlot 2017 ($34.99); Poplar Grove Cabernet Franc 2017 ($37.99); Osoyoos Larose 2017 ($48.99).

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Weekend wine picks

Tightrope Winery Sauvignon Blanc Sémillon 2020, Okanagan Valley, British Columbia, Canada

$22 I 91/100

UPC: 626990244448

This electric blend of 77.5 per cent Sauvignon Blanc and 22.5 per cent Sémillon is all about grapefruit streaked with a touch of tangerine. The Sémillon ably fills in some of the skinny Sauvignon notes, leaving it refreshing but with some mid-palate gravitas. Fresh, vibrant, and food-friendly, this white blend will find a compatible home with various seafood and chicken dishes.

Seven Directions Tractor and Vines Vineyard Pinot Noir Rosé 2020, Okanagan Valley, British Columbia, Canada

$26 I 92/100

UPC: 626990275183

Expect a bit of Provence, from its barely pink colour to its subtle strawberry and grapefruit, flecked with a hint of tangerine. It doesn’t get much better than this. Seven Directions is working hard on its new home in Cawston, where they have just under four acres of vines in the ground, including Garnacha Tinta, Grenache clone 52, Cabernet Franc clone 214, and Pinot Noir clone 667. The property is farmed organically, and the winery is well underway. It should be ready for the 2021 harvest.

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Tantalus Riesling 2020, Okanagan Valley, British Columbia, Canada

$22.61 I 92/100

UPC: 626990067412

The flagship Riesling at Tantalus is a study in purity and precision, none of which happens without a lot of work. The colour is pale yellow the nose is an aromatic rush of orchard fruits with an underlying floral tone throughout. The mix of nectarine, grape, lime and lemon zest keeps it razor-sharp as it travels its long linear palate line before it dissolves, slowly, into a wet stone, mineral finish. In 2020, the harvests took place from Oct. 7 to 23 from several blocks of fruit whose origins date back to the 1970s. The parcels are kept separate and fermented in isolation, and kept cold on their gross lees to be used judiciously in the final blend. Production was down, but the quality is among the best. We have said it before, and we will say it again; there is nothing regular about the “regular” Tantalus Riesling.

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Meyer Family Vineyards Pinot Noir Old Block McLean Creek Vineyard 2019, Okanagan Falls, Okanagan Valley, British Columbia, Canada

$43.58 | 92/100

UPC: 808755012985

Old Block comes off the original 1994 vineyard plantings and is the largest Pinot block (roughly one acre) at McLean Creek Road. The clone is unknown. The nose is almost aromatic as it wafts raspberries and forest floor out of the glass. The flavour mix is underripe black cherry, sweet ripe raspberries, and earthy dark plums supported by delicate, silky textures that sing along the palate. The finish is lengthy, with an enticing mix of violets and spice. The balance suggests you can drink this now or hold it because there is no rush. McLean Creek Road Vineyard is located in Okanagan Falls on a predominantly steep southerly aspect with the soil comprised of alluvial and glacial deposits.

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Time Cabernet Franc 2018, Oliver, Okanagan Valley, British Columbia, Canada

$34.99 I 89/100

UPC: 626990165422

The Time Cab Franc will surprise you from the moment you pour it into the bottle. The nose is aromatic and enticing with spicy, earthy black and red fruit. The textures are silky smooth, and the fruit purer with noticeably less caramel and oak. The fruit comes off the very warm Adega Vineyard in Osoyoos and the medium warm Halla Vineyard in Kaleden, across from the Skaha Bench. It is aged six months in French and American oak barrels, but it is less noticeable and much welcomed. Look for a peppery, earthy palate of black plums, blueberries, and savoury franc notes through the finish. Well made and should improve further as it ages. T-bone steaks, anyone?

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Recipe match: Roasted beet and feta bowl

Who says bowls are boring? This nourishing bowl created by the team at Chefs Plate mixes and mingles sweet roasted beets, spinach, pesto quinoa and a dazzling maple-balsamic drizzle for a healthy and flavourful dish that can be enjoyed at lunch or dinner.

Roasted beet and feta nourish bowl

1/2 cup (125 mL) quinoa

1/2 lb (226 g) beets

4 oz (114 g) feta cheese, crumbled

1 oz (28 g) almonds, sliced

1 oz (28 g) basil pesto

4 oz (114 g) arugula and spinach salad mix

2 tbsp (30 mL) balsamic vinegar

2 tbsp + 2 tsp (40 mL) maple syrup

2 tsp (10 mL) Dijon mustard

7 oz (198 g) zucchini

Preheat the oven to 450ºF. Start the recipe when the oven is ready.

Finely chop a quarter of the arugula and spinach mix. Cut zucchini into thin half-moons. Peel, then cut beets into thin wedges.

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Prepare a parchment-lined baking sheet. To the baking sheet, add beets and 2 tsp oil. Season with salt and pepper, then toss to coat. Roast on the middle rack of oven, for 16-18 minuyrd, until tender. Drizzle roasted beets with half the maple syrup, then toss to coat.

To a medium pot, add quinoa and 1 1/4 cups water. Season with salt and bring to a boil over high heat. Once boiling, cover and reduce heat to medium-low. Cook, for 15 minutes, until quinoa is tender and water is absorbed. Set aside, still covered, for 5 minutes. Fluff quinoa with a fork, then stir in half the pesto, chopped arugula and spinach mix, half the vinegar and 1 tsp oil. Season with salt and pepper.

Meanwhile, heat a large non-stick pan over medium-high heat. When the pan is hot, add almonds to the dry pan. Toast, stirring often, for 2-3 min, until golden. Transfer to a plate and set aside. To the same pan, add 2 tsp oil, then zucchini. Cook, stirring occasionally, until tender, 4-6 minutes. Season with salt and pepper.

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In a medium bowl, whisk together Dijon, remaining vinegar, remaining maple syrup and 2 tsp oil. Season with salt and pepper. Add remaining arugula and spinach mix. Toss to coat.

Serve pesto quinoa pilaf with arugula and spinach salad alongside. Top with zucchini and beets. Sprinkle almonds and feta over top. Enjoy!

Serves two. 

Recipe match

Roasted beets and feta leave me stuck in the middle of a rich white wine or a light fruity red to match its rich earthy notes that can at times be sweet too.

Hester Creek Old Vines Block 16 Trebbiano 2020, Golden Mile Bench, Okanagan Valley $22.99

Wildflower honey, melon, nectarine, and apricot flavours feign sweetness, remain dry and will energize this roasted beet and feta dish.

Domaine Lafond Tavel Roc-Epine 2019, Rhone Valley, France $29.99

Tavel has the structured, weighty styling and rich red fruit flavours flecked with savoury mineral notes to be the perfect foil for the beets and feta.