Salad days of summer | Vancouver Sun

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I don’t know about you, but the last place I want to spend time this summer is in my kitchen.

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After 15 pandemic-fuelled months of making pasta, breaking bread, putting up preserves and staying in night after night, I’m heartily sick of my own food. Besides, I want to spend every moment possible with friends and family.

Don’t you?

But people still need to eat, and feeding others is the best way to show you love them. Enter salad.

Best of all, you don’t even have to make them yourself.

Some of our favourite catering companies, like the Lazy Gourmet and Savoury City, will make main or side-dish salads for you. Field & Social, which has four locations and a catering delivery service, does nothing but salad. And giovane caffe, the rebranded Venetian tapas joint in the Fairmont Pacific Rim, has just launched gran-and-go salads in a jar, perfect for tucking in your backpack or tote bag.

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Now, we’re not just talking leafy greens, though right now is a good time to enjoy fresh kale, lettuce, radicchio and arugula straight from the garden or farmer’s market.

We’re talking the kind of substantial, portable salads you can bring to the park, the family picnic, your friend’s barbecue or just out to the back deck.

They take advantage of all the fantastic produce that grows in B.C., the creamy potatoes and pungent radishes, the crisp cukes and sweet tomatoes, and all the bright, fresh, fragrant herbs.

They are hearty, they are easy to make, they are good for you. Indeed, salads are the perfect solution for just about everything.

They include classics like potato salad and pasta salad, the popular sides at every picnic. Both are great make-ahead dishes that taste better after they’ve sat around for a few hours to let the flavours meld — just keep them well chilled, especially if you use mayonnaise in your dressing, to avoid any food-borne illnesses.

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Grain salads, meanwhile, can be endlessly versatile. Barley, wheat berries, farro, bulghur, freekeh, quinoa (which is actually a seed) and legumes like lentils or chickpeas have wonderfully nutty flavour and a satisfyingly toothsome texture.

Whole grains are not just delicious, they are packed with nutrients including protein, fibre, B vitamins, antioxidants and trace minerals (iron, zinc, copper, and magnesium). Plus they rely on pantry staples, so aside from a few fresh veggies, you don’t need to make a special shopping trip — or spend a bomb to make them.

And then there are the protein-rich main-course salads, like Cobb or Niçoise, that are such an elegant way to dine when the weather is sultry.

Feeling too lazy to look up a recipe? You don’t really need one, just a few basic rules and techniques.

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One easy trick is look to the classics, then either add a grain or protein, or substitute one of the traditional ingredients with something new.

For instance, a simple Caprese salad of sliced tomatoes and fresh mozzarella goes a lot further if you use halved cherry tomatoes and small bocconcini balls, then add some cooked quinoa. Mix with olive oil, a bit of wine vinegar, and plenty of shredded basil.

The Middle Eastern tabbouleh is typically bulghur mixed with finely chopped parsley and mint, as well as tomatoes, cucumbers and onions, then tossed with a bright lemony dressing. Swap out the bulghur with quinoa or wheat berries for a slightly different take, then add some protein, such as cubed feta, or perhaps some grilled chicken.

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Or create your own salad following this basic formula: base (greens or cooked vegetables) + protein (meat, cheese, fish) + something crunchy (seeds, nuts, croutons) + dressing.

Elevate it by adding more veg (raw, cooked, pickled), something soft (avocado, boiled egg) and aromatic add-ins like fresh herbs or crispy fried shallots.

In the case of a grain salad, the cooked grains are your base, to which you add vegetables, protein, dressing and your extras.

The key is to balance flavours and textures. If you have something soft and creamy, like avocado or boiled egg, you need something crunchy, like pumpkin seeds. If you have something mild like a potato, you need something pungent like blue cheese or olives.

Dressing can be creamy or oil-based, but it needs some acidity to make flavours pop. Lemon juice is a bright summer choice as is verjus, the pressed juice of unripened grapes, which has a milder flavour than vinegar.

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Venturi-Schulze on Vancouver Island produces an excellent verjus as well as its famous balsamic vinegar.

Most of all, summer salads should be easy. They should take advantage of all the delicious thing that are ripe right now. They should taste good, and make you feel good. And they should get you out of the kitchen and around a table with the people you love.

Three classic main course salads

Cobb: The favourite of business lunches everywhere, this composed salad doesn’t need to be bland and boring. It starts with really good roast chicken — dust it with loads of salt and herbs before roasting, then leave the skin on and slice it, rather than cube it. Layer it on a bed of crisp greens tossed with a mustardy vinaigrette, then add ripe tomatoes, creamy avocados crumbled salty bacon, funky blue cheese and gorgeously jammy eggs.

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Niçoise: Done right, this Provençal salad balances the bold umami of tuna and olives with the mildness of the potatoes and eggs, the pepperiness of the greens and the tang of a simple oil and vinegar dressing. This salad cries out for a crisp rosé to sip alongside, preferably on a bustling patio. The key here is the tuna — you can go fancy with seared fresh albacore, but really good quality Italian or Spanish canned tuna packed in oil is an even better choice.

Thai beef: Quick-cooking vermicelli noodles are topped with crisp greens, fragrant herbs (basil, cilantro, mint) and sliced steak, all drizzled with a sweet-salty-spicy-sour nuoc cham dressing. Throw some cucumber, bean sprouts, radishes and peanuts in there if you like. This is a great salad to enjoy if you have leftover steak from last night’s cookout.

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Summer Potato Salad

The perfect picnic side. Recipe by Jenny Hui, executive chef, The Lazy Gourmet.

2 lbs baby white potatoes

½ cup apple cider vinegar

½ cup mayonnaise

1 Tbsp yellow mustard

2 Tbsp chopped dill

2 Tbsp chopped Italian parsley

½ small red onion, julienned

3 stalks celery, cut into ¼-inch slices

4 red radishes, sliced

Kosher salt, to taste

Black pepper, to taste

Place potatoes in a large pot. Cover with water. Add 1 Tbsp of kosher salt. Bring to a boil, then lower heat. Cook for 15 to 20 minutes, or until the potatoes pierce easily with a fork. Drain. Allow to cool for 5 minutes.

Cut potatoes into bite size cubes. Place into a large mixing bowl. Toss potatoes with vinegar. Season with salt and pepper. Set aside.

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In a small mixing bowl, whisk together mayonnaise, yellow mustard, dill and Italian parsley. Set aside.

Add celery and red onion to the potatoes.

Gently fold mayonnaise mixture into the potatoes mix. Season with salt and pepper. Place into your serving bowl, then garnish with radish slices.

Makes 6 cups

Summer Orzo Salad

An easy weeknight recipe or add-on to a summer picnic spread. Recipe by Stewart Boyles, regional chef, Field & Social.

Salad:

1 cup dry orzo pasta

½ cup walnut pieces

1 bunch green kale

1 bunch romaine lettuce

3 Tbsp chopped sun-dried tomatoes (drained)

Optional: Roasted chicken breast or grilled prawns

1 Tbsp grated Parmigiano Reggiano

4 large fresh basil leaves (torn)

Dressing:

1 cup olive oil

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1 Tbsp lemon juice

¼ cup white balsamic vinegar (or white wine vinegar)

½ Tbsp Dijon mustard

1 Tbsp honey

1 clove garlic, grated

Salt and pepper to taste

Preheat oven to 350°F.

Bring a pot of water to a boil and cook orzo pasta according to package directions. Drain, cool and set aside.

Place walnuts in a baking sheet and roast for 7 minutes, until golden and fragrant. Watch closely so they don’t burn.

Wash and dry kale and romaine leaves, then tear into bite-sized pieces and place into a large bowl.

Make the dressing: In a separate bowl, whisk all ingredients together.

To serve: Mix orzo, greens and sun-dried tomatoes with dressing. If you like, top with roasted chicken breast or grilled prawns, then sprinkle with grated Parmigiano Reggiano. Garnish with fresh basil leaves.

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Makes 4 servings

Southwestern Kale Salad

This bright, colourful salad is hearty and satisfying, but light enough for a hot day. Recipe from Savoury City Catering. FYI: The leftover dressing makes for an excellent marinade for barbecued chicken.

¼ cup pepitas (raw, unsalted pumpkin seeds)

1 large yam (sweet potato), diced

Extra virgin olive oil

Smoked paprika, to taste

Salt and pepper, to taste

1 cup corn kernels

1 large red bell pepper, sliced or diced

2 heads Lacinato (dinosaur) kale, centre rib removed, finely chopped

4 oz baby arugula (3 ½ to 4 cups)

1 head red leaf lettuce, washed and torn

4 oz crumbled queso fresco

Creamy Cilantro Dressing (recipe below)

Preheat oven to 350°F.

While it is heating, place pepitas in a small saucepan over medium-low heat. Cook for 3 to 5 minutes, shaking the pan frequently and stirring occasionally, until pepitas are golden and fragrant. Remove from heat immediately and stir a few more times to prevent burning.

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Place the diced yams in a baking dish. Drizzle with a tablespoon or so of olive oil, then sprinkle with a little smoked paprika, salt and pepper. Place in the oven roast for 8 to 10 minutes, or until golden brown and soft in the middle.

Place the peppers and corn in another baking dish and roast for 8 to 10 minutes, or until soft.

Let the roast vegetables cool to room temperature.

Place the greens in a large bowl. Add roasted yams, peppers and corn and toss. Add the dressing and toss the salad to coat. Season with additional salt and pepper if desired. Top with queso fresca and toasted pepitas and serve.

Serves 4 to 6

Creamy Cilantro Dressing

1 bunch cilantro, washed and trimmed

3 large cloves garlic

3 limes, juiced

½ cup Greek yogurt

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1 tsp honey

½ tsp salt

¼ tsp black pepper

Optional: 1 jalapeño pepper, stemmed, seeded and ribs removed

½ cup extra virgin olive oil

Place cilantro, garlic, lime juice, yogurt, honey, salt, pepper and optional jalapeño in a blender. Blend for 30 seconds, or until smooth.

Slowly add olive oil, blending until just incorporated. Taste and adjust seasoning, if necessary. Leftovers can be stored in the fridge for up to five days.

Chicken Cicoria Jarred Salad

Recipe from the giovane caffè Culinary Team. Alex Tung, the culinary director of Kitchen Table Restaurants, says the team was inspired to was inspired to create its new line of jarred salads “in an effort to reduce waste, without sacrificing functionality or hiding the beautiful ingredients that play a starring role.” The recipe below features the proportions for one jarred salad; however, the dressing is enough for four, so you can just increase the amounts as needed.

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Dressing:

1 egg yolk (egg cooked for 6 minutes)

1 garlic clove (preferably roasted)

1 tsp red wine vinegar

1 tsp lemon juice

2 tsp capers

1 anchovy fillet

2 Tbsp grated Parmigiano Reggiano

½ cup extra virgin olive oil

Salt and pepper to taste

Salad (per jar):

3 Tbsp salad dressing

1 roasted chicken thigh, diced

½ cup shredded radicchio

2 Tbsp Castelvetrano olives

2 Tbsp sliced, toasted almonds

1 cup torn baby kale

To make the dressing: Add egg yolk, garlic, vinegar, lemon juice, capers, anchovies and Parmigiano Reggiano into a blender. With the motor running, slowly stream in olive oil to form a creamy emulsion. Season with salt and pepper to taste.

Start building the salad by ladling the dressing into a 500 mL jar.

Layer the chicken, then radicchio, olives, almonds and kale into the jar.

When ready to eat, shake salad until the dressing is evenly dispersed and coating all the ingredients. Pour the salad into a bowl, or eat straight from the jar. Buon appetite!

Makes 1 jarred salad