Annual B.C. grape report shines valuable light on province production

Article content

The B.C. Wine Grape Council has released its annual crop assessment 2021 vintage. The data represents an analysis of varietal tonnage and prices of grapes grown on the B.C. mainland and used in the production of wine in 2021.

Article content

The regulation requires mainland wineries to report and pay levies on tonnage bought to the grape council, allowing for a comprehensive set of information to digest.

Wineries also voluntarily submit pricing data that is now included in the report. While tonnage data consists of all winery-grown and independent vineyards, pricing averages exclude crops from winery-owned and leased vineyards to give a more comprehensive estimation of the value of grapes by variety.

The data is unaudited and is produced for industry information only. Still, it shines a valuable light on the state of B.C. grape production related to today and tomorrow, and specifically 2021.

The 2021 synopsis states: “In an otherwise mild winter, an extreme cold snap in mid-February 2021 caused bud damage in some areas. The growing season started with a warm, dry spring followed by a record-breaking heat wave in June and July. These high temperatures and dry conditions led to lower-than-average berry sizes and bunch weights. This, combined with warm weather in the early fall, resulted in early ripening for many varieties and high levels of grape ripeness. Growing degree days for the 2021 growing season were higher than average across the region and reached record high levels at some weather stations.”

Article content

It’s a 54-page report, so I’m going to cherry-pick the highlights to illustrate the growing trends in B.C. wine country.

The total number of grape-producing wineries in B.C. is 288, of which 260 are on the mainland. Some 233 wine-growers responded to the survey, or just under 86 per cent. The corresponding numbers were 193/126 and 65 per cent a decade ago. The size of wineries as measured by short tons (ST) of fruit processed was: Three large (> 1,500 ST), 41 medium (150-1,500 ST) and 179 small (< 150 ST).

In terms of red grapes, Merlot topped all producers at 2,950.50 ST, selling at an average of $3,047.53 per ton. Syrah (877.90 ST) fetched a stunning $3,515.89 per ton at Number 4. Finally, Marsanne topped all white grapes from a small base of 1.3 ST at $3,076.92 per ton. The more mainstream Riesling, Chardonnay and Pinot Gris were all selling in the $2,350 to $2,500 a ton.

Article content

B.C. leads the country with 95 per cent Vitis vinifera grapes in the ground, with only about five per cent of total red and white grapes made from hybrids and Lambrusca vines.

Total tonnage per region illustrates the breadth of B.C. wine-growing, although the lion’s share of vines and production reside in the South Okanagan. Oliver tops the list at 43.66 per cent, Osoyoos at 15.52, Penticton-Naramata-Kalenden sits at 8.63 and Kelowna at 7.71 per cent. Okanagan Falls and Similkameen Valley growers reported 4.85 per cent of the pie, followed by West Kelowna, Summerland, Lake Country-Vernon, and the Fraser Valley, with even lesser amounts from Shuswap, Lillooet and the Thompson Valley.

Leading grapes by area are worth noting too. Oliver is Merlot country at 22 per cent; ditto for Osoyoos at 27. In Penticton-Naramata-Kalenden, Merlot edges Pinot Noir at 16 per cent versus 13 per cent. Kelowna is Pinot Noir country at 19 per cent, Okanagan Falls is Chardonnay at 23 and Similkameen Merlot at 23 per cent. In Summerland/Peachland, Pinot at 20 per cent tops the Pinot Noir at 19. West Kelowna is Pinot Noir at 23 per cent, and Lake County-Vernon is 22 Riesling and 21 per cent Pinot Noir.

Article content

The most exciting observations concern our best grapes. Their ability to produce high-quality wines, energized by our cool climate, is finally coming to fruition. Riesling, Pinot Noir, Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay, Cabernet Franc and Pinot Gris all have a chance to compete at a very high level globally, and they’re digging into the very best sites across the province.

On the flip side of the coin, grapes such as Marsanne, Gruner Veltliner, Roussanne, Marquette, Ortega, Pinot Blanc, Malbec, Tempranillo, Sangiovese and more aren’t going away. Winemakers and growers are experimenting with new clones and vineyards as they continue the search for a spot among mainstream rivals.

As for Vancouver Island growers sidestepping the report but profiting from the spotlight on B.C. wines, may we suggest you get in the game.

Article content

Weekend wine picks

Quails’ Gate Gewürztraminer 2021, West Kelowna, Okanagan Valley

$19.99 I 89/100

UPC: 778856121063

I love the simplicity here. The style is fruity but almost dry and fresh after spending only a handful of months in stainless steel. The entry is a stylish affair with an intriguing mix of sweet pear, guava, melon and citrus, ending in a silky finish. Classic gew you can serve with lightly spiced dishes.

Fabre en Provence Rosé 2020, Côtes de Provence, France 

$22.99 I 90/100

UPC: 892591000848

Henri Fabre and his ancestors have been producing rosé for 17 generations in Provence and participated in founding the Provence AOC. It’s fresh, bright and vibrant; it opens with reasonably lush strawberry and rosewater scented aromas that spill across a palate of ripe raspberries and saline notes throughout its glossy textures. The vineyard mix is 29/26/45 Grenache/Syrah/Cinsault. Fabre en Provence is the largest family run estate in southern France with 550 hectares under vine.

Article content

Phantom Creek Estates Pinot Gris 2019, Okanagan Falls, Okanagan Valley 

$27.49 I 92/100

UPC: 696852012508

Winemaker Olivier Humbrecht has ventured outside his beloved Alsace appellation to make a Pinot Gris in B.C. at Phantom Creek. The humble, legendary wine-grower and biodynamic guru is knocking it out of the park with purchased fruit while he patiently waits for the cold, windy, rocky vineyard he has planted in the Similkameen Valley to come to life. The wine with no showy edges is like Olivier. Its tight, tart fruit, spiked with savoury sagebrush, is complex and persistent from front-to-back. It’s a wine for thinkers and what I like to term ‘wine-drinkers.’ The fermentation runs over four months to dryness involving only indigenous yeasts. Forty per cent is aged in traditional foudres for 10 months, adding extra layers of texture and richness to this Alsace look-alike, with a touch of wild B.C. So stock up — you can age this one too.

Article content

Road 13 Syrah 2019, Okanagan Valley

$35 I 90/100

UPC: 626990315209

This was last tasted in October, and if anything, it’s getting better in the bottle. The fruit is a mix of seven blocks of Syrah taken from both the east and west sides of the Okanagan Valley. Winemaker Barclay Robinson is a balance freak, and with a sommelier background, he has an equal interest in making wines that are fun to drink. I love the pure, peppery Syrah notes replete with raspberry and blackberry, with a juicy, smooth, clean, spicy back end. Again, it’s B.C. fresh, ensuring it will go the distance in the bottle. Think steak or even a favourite curry for a double hit of spice. All blocks are hand-harvested, sorted, de-stemmed and fermented individually. The Syrah is co-fermented with just the right amount of Viognier, one per cent, and sees only 20 per cent new oak (French and American).

Article content

Mission Hill Quatrain 2016, Osoyoos, Okanagan Valley 

$85.99 I 92/100

UPC: 776545555991

Quatrain is a perfect bottle for dad on Father’s Day. Two-thousand-and-sixteen is an excellent vintage, and at six years of age it’s ready to drink. Look for a vibrant nose with floral, blue fruit notes. It remains rich and peppery on the palate with a giant blueberry, bramble palate flecked with licorice and savoury desert scrub flecks in the finish. The texture is best of all, allowing the wine to slip around your palate effortlessly. Drink now with roast lamb, lamb osso buco, or a favourite steak cut. Finally, it’s listed in select B.C. Liquor Stores.

Beets get a boost thanks to this tahini-topped salad from the team at Tractor Foods. Enjoy this fresh and flavourful recipe as a summer side dish, or enjoy it for a light lunch spent out on the patio.

Article content

Tahini Beet Salad

5 cups (1,250 mL) beets, peeled and cut into chopped 1 1/2-to-2-inch chunks

1 1/2 cups (375 mL) radishes, halved

1 1/2 cups (375 mL) cauliflower, broken into florets

Olive oil

Salt and pepper, to taste

1/2 cup (125 mL) chopped flat leaf parsley

Dressing

1/2 clove garlic

1 tbsp (15 mL) tahini

1 tbsp (15 mL) grapeseed or avocado oil

4 tsp (20 mL) lemon juice

1/2 tsp (2.5 mL) agave

3 tsp (15 mL) water

1/4 tsp salt

Steam beets until fork tender, around 15-20 minutes. Toss cauliflower with olive oil, salt and pepper and roast at 400 F for 20 minutes until golden and tender. Raise oven temp to 425 F. Toss radish halves with olive oil, salt and pepper and roast at 425 F for 20-25 minutes until just tender.

Combine dressing ingredients in blender and blend on high until thoroughly mixed. If you don’t have a blender, whisk all ingredients in a large bowl until combined. Mix cooked beets, cauliflower and radishes with dressing along with most of the parsley in a large bowl.

Garnish with remaining parsley and enjoy.

Serves 4.

Recipe match

A fruity red low should balance an earthy beet salad. It’s low in tannin and ready to drink.

Luccarelli Primitivo, Puglia, Italy, $15.99

Soft, ripe and warm with black cherries, chocolate and balsamic notes with a touch of acidity poking through a low tannin finish. Beets, anyone?

Borsao Garnacha, Campo de Borja, Aragon, Spain, $14.99

Bright and fresh wild blueberry and blackberry fruit that presents fleshy and soft. Ready to slay this dish.