Anthony Gismondi: B.C. stands proud at National Wine Awards of Canada

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The final results from the National Wine Awards of Canada are in and British Columbia wineries excelled in 2022.

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On this B.C. Day long weekend, we look at the top 10 B.C. wineries that entered a minimum of five wines, not including Icewine and made the coveted list of “Canada’s Top 25 Wineries of the Year.” You can read the full results at winealign.com/awards.

CedarCreek Estate Winery (No. 1 B.C., No. 1 Canada )

Winemaker Taylor Whelan’s team top all the lists grabbing two platinum medals, four gold, eight silver and five bronze. We will take a closer look at the winery in the weeks ahead, but for now, the highlights are the Platinum Series 2020 Jagged Rock Syrah, the 2019 Aspect Collection Block 5 Chardonnay, the Platinum Series 2020 Jagged Rock Chardonnay, the 2020 Aspect Collection Block 3 Riesling and its 2021 Pinot Noir Rosé.

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SpearHead Winery (No. 2 B.C., No. 3 Canada)

Spearhead won Best Performing Small Winery of the Year (under 10,000 cases) while taking home one platinum, seven gold, three silver and five bronze medals. Winemaker Grant Stanley leads the charge for purity at the East Kelowna winery. He, too, wowed the judges with several labels led by his 2019 Coyote Vineyard Pinot Noir, Botrytis Affected Late Harvest Riesling, 2019 Cuvée Pinot Noir, 2019 Golden Retreat Pinot Noir and a 2020 Saddle Block Chardonnay.

Mission Hill Family Estate (No. 3 B.C., No. 4 Canada)

Mission Hill grabbed one platinum, four gold, nine silver and six bronze medals. The hilltop West Kelowna winery quietly continues to raise its game using multiple vineyard sources and certified organic fruit. The arrival of chief winemaker Corrie Kreibhl has added some much-appreciated tweaks. Top picks include 2020 Terroir Collection Jagged Rock Syrah, 2021 Reserve Riesling, 2020 Perpetua Chardonnay, 2020 Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon and a 2020 Reserve Merlot.

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La Frenz (No. 4 B.C., No. 5 Canada)

Another strong year for La Frenz as they earned one platinum, nine gold, give silver and two bronze. Jeff and Niva Martin, along with daughter Elise, are Naramata stalwarts who continue to set high standards for the Naramata Bench. Look for the 2019 Syrah Rockyfeller Vineyard, the 2019 Malbec Rockyfeller Vineyard, 2019 Grand Total Reserve, the 2018 Aster Brut and the 2020 Reserve Vivant. Supplies are low so check directly with the winery about where to purchase their wines.

Black Hills Estate Winery (No. 5 B.C., No. 7 Canada)

Black Hills won one platinum, five gold, three silver and three bronze medals. It didn’t take long for winemaker Ross Wise to take Black Hills to another level. Less oak and brighter fruit did the trick, along with some stylish blending. Top scoring labels included 2020 Ipso Facto, 2020 Per Se, 2020 Chardonnay, 2020 Roussanne and 2020 Addendum.

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Fort Berens (No. 6 B.C., No. 8 Canada)

With a platinum, three gold, three silver and six bronze medals and a Lillooet G.I. on its label, Fort Berens has put itself on the B.C. wine map. You should expect to find all these wines: 2020 Pinot Noir, 2021 Small Lot Grüner Veltliner, 2019 Merlot Reserve Merlot, 2019 Merlot and the 2019 Cabernet Franc Reserve.

Bordertown Vineyard & Estate (No. 7 B.C., No. 9 Canada)

Bordertown’s performance, one platinum, three gold, three silver and three bronze medals, was a lovely surprise showcasing its warm expanse of south Okanagan fruit that has its fingerprints on all the medal winners: 2019 Cabernet Sauvignon, 2019 Cabernet Franc, 2019 Malbec, 2019 Syrah and 2019 Cabernet Franc Reserve.

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Quails’ Gate Estate (No. 8 B.C.; No. 11 Canada)

Another strong showing for the West Kelowna pioneer and its recently certified sustainable vineyard with six gold, eight silver and three bronze medals. The list of winning wines includes 2021 Chenin Blanc, 2020 Stewart Family Reserve Chardonnay, 2019 Rosemary’s Block Chardonnay, 2021 Late Harvest Optima Late Harvest, and the 2020 Pinot Noir.

Nk’Mip Cellars (No. 9 B.C.; No. 13 Canada)

A visit to this unique First Nations winery, which won five gold, three silver and four bronze medals, is a fun tasting experience. Be sure to include lunch on the patio. Wines to look for are 2019 Qwam Qwmt Chardonnay, 2019 Qwam Qwmt Syrah, 2019 Merriym Red Meritage, 2020 Chardonnay and 2020 Merriym White Meritage.

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Kismet Estate (No. 10 B.C.; No. 19 Canada)

Kismet joins a long list of award-winning Oliver-based wineries at The Nationals with four gold, three silver and five bronze medals. Top labels were 2020 Reserve Cabernet Franc, 2020 Karma, 2021 Pinot Grigio 2020 Viognier Roussanne Marsanne Reserve an 2019 Reserve Cabernet Franc.

Weekend Wine Picks 

Clos du Soleil Grower’s Series Pinot Blanc Middle Bench Vineyard 2021, Similkameen Valley, British Columbia, Canada 

$24.90 I 90/100

UPC: 857088000749

Time on its lees helps to layer in complexity and texture to take on the skinny, lean acidity that lines the pockets of this bright white. Gooseberry, lime pith and citrus peel conspire to keep it mouth-watering and juicy with a twist of desert sagebrush in the end. Drink or hold with oysters through halibut.

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Frind Estate The Premier 2020, British Columbia, Canada 

$39.99 I 88/100

UPC: 626990415411

The Premier is nearly 60 per cent Merlot mixed with Cabernet Sauvignon, Marquette, Petit Verdot, Syrah, Cabernet Franc and Malbec. The style is hedonistic, almost a throwback to another time when big, rich, and ripe red wines ruled the world. For some, it’s precisely what they want in a bottle of red wine. The back is not as cheery, showing some savoury green that adds another dimension — a solid mid-week choice best served with grilled meats or roasted fall vegetables.

Desert Hills Syrah 2019, Okanagan Valley, British Columbia, Canada 

$36.90 I 89/100

UPC: 892499000094

Always one of the best wines at Desert Hills, 2019 Syrah opens with a blast of pepper, smoke, and intense ripe fruit. The attack is equally full with a savoury, smoky, meaty, mid-palate and long, protracted, peppery finish. The tannins are smooth, the texture glycerine, but all with a measure of acidity to keep it on beam. Drink or hold, but if you open a bottle now, think lamb or rare beef.

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Lake Breeze Cellar Series Mistral 2018, Okanagan Valley, British Columbia, Canada 

$36 I 91/100

UPC: 626990225560

The Mistral Syrah is part of the Lake Breeze Cellar Series, a luxurious collection. The label pays tribute to the regional wind that embodies its unique winemaking style. The original Mistral wind is a critical component of the terroir in the Rhône Valley, keeping disease to a minimum. Their 2018 is a tasty little red with soft edges mixing pepper and black fruits, plums, and cherries with a streak of blueberry. The harmony here will appeal to most drinkers, and its glossy textures are ready to drink. Try this with anything grilled on the barbecue to show it at its best. Impressive.

Hillside Heritage Series Syrah 2019, Naramata Bench, Okanagan Valley, British Columbia, Canada 

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$32 I 90/100

UPC: 626990053538

Naramata grown and raised this 20-year-old Syrah comes off Hidden Valley Vineyard, located just south of the winery above the Naramata Highway. The style is decidedly relaxed and dry with firm acidity and a bony Rhone bent. It opens with a raft of black raspberry and spicy clove with more savoury hits along the way. Elegant and refined, it is a Syrah for contemplation and gastronomy. Best of all, it comes in at 11.8 per cent alcohol. I love this juicy, fresh style, so alive it speaks to some exceptional terroir. Fine value

Recipe match: Birch beer salmon and Three Sisters salad

This flavourful recipe, created by Chef Heat Laliberte for Nk’Mip Cellars, sees salmon paired with a colourful mixed vegetable salad inspired by the Indigenous legend of the Three Sisters — corn, bean and squash.

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Birch beer salmon and Three Sisters salad

11 oz (312 g) Sockeye salmon filets

1 bottle Boylan’s Original Birch Beer

1 1/2 cup (375 mL) honey

1 pint blackberries, halved lengthwise

1 can (540 mL) Western Family Six Bean Blend

5 oz (150 g) green beans

2 pieces corn on the cob

1 piece butternut squash

1 lemon

1 bunch flat-leaf parsley

1 bunch baby dill

2 cloves garlic, finely chopped

Extra virgin olive oil

Salt and pepper, to taste

1 red onion

Cure the salmon

Cut salmon into two, 150 g portions. Lay the sockeye salmon in a plastic or ceramic container and season it generously with salt and cracked black pepper. Drizzle 1/4 cup of honey over the salmon. Pour Boylan’s Original Birch Beer soda over, immersing fish completely. Cover and let cure in fridge for 6-8 hours.

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Honey and lemon dressing

Add chopped garlic to a bowl. Zest 1/4 of lemon into bowl with garlic. Juice full lemon into the bowl, straining out any seeds. Add 4 tbsp of honey and 1/3 cup olive oil, then stir to combine.

Three Sisters Salad

Set oven to bake at 400 degrees Fahrenheit. Turn barbecue on to medium heat. Bring a medium pot of water to boil.

Drain and rinse the can of bean salad. Set aside. Dice the squash into 1/2-inch pieces, toss in olive oil and season with salt and pepper. Once the oven has reached 400, roast the squash for 20 minutes.

Shuck the two cobs of corn, drizzle with olive oil and season with salt and pepper. Grill corn on barbecue for 2 1/2 minutes per side. Once cooled, use a sharp knife to cut kernels off the cob and set aside.

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Once the of water has reached a boil, add a pinch of salt and place the green beans in the water for two minutes. Remove, then rinse the green beans in ice water for one minute. Cut into one-inch pieces. Finely dice 3 tbsp of red onion, 2 tbsp of dill, and 2 tbsp of parsley.

In a large bowl, add the beans, squash, corn, red onion, dill and parsley. Add the honey and lemon dressing and toss to combine.

Grill the salmon

Set barbecue temperature to high heat (between 400-500 degrees Fahrenheit). Take the salmon out of the fridge, remove it from the marinade and rinse it under cold water. Pat dry with paper towel, then place it on a plate. Drizzle with olive oil and season with salt and pepper.

When grill is hot, place the salmon on the middle of the grill, flesh-side down for six minutes. Carefully flip and cook for another two minutes, then remove from grill and set on plate to rest.

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Assembly

Arrange salad in middle of two dinner plates and lay grilled salmon overtop. Garnish with a few blackberries.

Serves two. 

Recipe match

Pinot Noir is a solid salmon match, but the plethora of busy flavours call for a bolder, perhaps New World style to take on this dish. 

Fort Berens Pinot Noir Reserve 2018, Lillooet, British Columbia, Canada $36.99 

The style is cool and cedary with rhubarb, cherry and an earthy, branchy undercurrent or everything you need to take on this dish.

Sokol Blosser Estate Pinot Noir Dundee Hills 2019, Willamette Valley, Oregon, USA $41.99

The style is rich with fresh black cherries, black raspberries scented with truffle, and earth filling your palate from front to back before a slightly earthy, peppery finish.