12 of Metro Vancouver’s best new restaurants in 2023

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It ain’t pretty — about 50 per cent of restaurants in B.C. are either losing money or just breaking even, according to recent stats.

“I one hundred per cent see it,” confirms Ian Tostenson, president and CEO of the B.C. Restaurant and Foodservices Association. “On the one hand, new restaurants are opening, but on the other, they’re closing at a rate I haven’t seen for a long time. I can tell you this — bankruptcies are up by 16 per cent, year over year.”

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Considering the perfect storm of insults bashing away at restaurants — food and operating cost inflation, added government regulations, wage increases, staff shortages, belt-tightening consumers, and of course, recovery from the pandemic — it’s not surprising.

“We’re seeing the average consumer is still going out, but they use restaurants differently. They go to happy hour, order appies and a glass of wine, or in a lot of cases, non-alcoholic drinks. The average check is down, but traffic is strong.”

“In March, food costs went up nine per cent while meal prices went up six per cent,” says Tostenson. “And another thing, younger generations are hooked on food deliveries. The restaurants bear the delivery cost and it gets baked into overall costs.”

In response, new restaurants are smaller, meaning less overhead. Technology reduces labour costs and are operators are smart about property leases.

“People in the industry say, the first guy goes broke, the second tries to survive, the third gets in at a pretty low cost,” Tostenson says. That third tenant benefits from previous improvements. We’re seeing QR codes replacing menus, payments at the table, a lot of happy hours. But with technology replacing humans, I’ve also seen phone calls and emails go unanswered.

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But, says Tostenson, “The one thing that has helped is a loyal public that stood by the restaurants, supported them during the pandemic. Operators, having survived the rough waters, are an opportunistic, determined, innovative segment of our economy,” he says. “It’s one of the most innovative businesses in North America. They’re great entrepreneurs.”

But still struggling. At least, he says, next time something like a pandemic happens, there will be lots of plexiglass at the ready.

Kevin Frank, who recently opened Jungle Room Restaurant and Cocktail Lounge in the West End, explained what attracts him to the risky business:

“I’m not afraid to take risks as long as it’s calculated,” he says. “I’m not a betting man. I don’t throw things against the wall to see if it sticks. I honestly felt this highly populated area deserves a really great elevated restaurant-cocktail lounge with carefully curated food and cocktails, shareable among friends.”

He previously was co-owner of Kevin and Kevin in Chinatown, which didn’t survive what the pandemic threw at that neighbourhood.

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“In my experience, everything’s a bit of a risk, but if you’re passionate and it’s a well-calculated risk, let’s go for it.”

Best new restaurants of 2023

It’s astonishing how restaurants continue opening, bucking the odds and financial risks. But they do.

These are the best restaurants of 2023, although it’s a bit of a moving target. For example, the casually ambitious Vignette, from the family of the star-bright Published on Main, opened and closed before the year was up, and a sibling, Bar Susu, gutted from a fire, relocated into the space.

Elio Volpe and its “southern Italian food” I’m so eager to try isn’t at the finishing line as I write.

Kalamis, a promising Turkish restaurant, opened in mid-December, too late for this roundup as I was defrosting my bones in Mexico by then.

But here are my picks for the best new restaurants of the year:

Acre Through The Seasons

Where: Club Versante, 8400 West Rd., Richmond
When: Dinner, Thursday-Sunday; afternoon tea, Monday-Wednesday
Info: 604-242-2760; clubversante.com/acre

It’s the old pivot — this started as Oo La Cha, specializing in aged fish, but is now rebranded with a farm-to-table seasonal tasting menu, with chef William Lew helming. His background in art and music, and commitment to sustainable cooking is all there in his food.

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Au Petit Comptoir

Where: 1471 Continental St., Vancouver
When: Dinner, lunch/brunch, Wednesday-Sunday
Info: 604-292-6917; aupetitcomptoir.ca

A baby bistro version of Au Comptoir in Kitsilano, and a pivot from its former life as Ça Marche Crêperie. The teeny space has all the feel of a Paris bistro with a very French brunch by day and steaks and mussels by night.

Bar Bravo

Where: 4194 Fraser St., Vancouver
When: Dinner, Wednesday-Sunday
Info: 604-486-1118; bravovancouver.com

Respect seafood — words to live by here, sourcing from the best and sustainable suppliers. And they amp things up by dry-aging some of the fish. A warm neighbourhood spot.

Bar Haifa

Where: 400 West Georgia St., Vancouver
When: Lunch, dinner, Monday-Saturday
Info: 604-761-3375; barhaifa.com

Let’s lavish love on the Palestinian-Muslim and Israeli-Jewish union behind this new spot. And the deliciousness of the vibrant Middle Eastern food. The dramatic room, in the atrium of the Deloitte Summit building downtown, soars skyward.

Gary’s

Where: 1485 West 12th Ave., Vancouver
When: Dinner, Tuesday-Saturday
Info: 604-245-3800; garysrestaurant.ca

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A genuinely welcoming, bustling neighbourhood spot. Bistro-style comfort food punches above the norm. It’s noisy when busy, so not for those who like a quieter environment.

Jungle Room

Where: 961 Denman St., Vancouver
When: Dinner, daily; brunch, weekends; happy hour, daily
Info: 604-558-4343; jungleroom.ca

The Dover Arms, a “lived in” neighbourhood pub for West Enders for more than 40 years, stood empty after closing. But the totally reno-ed Jungle Room could very well be a new gathering spot for the neighbourhood — for cocktails, music, and Japanese-Indonesian food with flair.

Marilena Café and Raw Bar

Where: 1525 Douglas St., Victoria
When: Dinner, daily
Info: 778-405-5200; marilenacafe.com

If you’re in Victoria, you cannot go wrong here where the Toptable Group elevates local cuisine, as they’ve done in Vancouver, Whistler and New York. The food is “ingredient-driven with a focus on seafood, done in an approachable presentation,” in chef Kristian Eligh’s words.

Mekong

Where: 204-2067 Lake Placid Rd., Whistler
When: Dinner, daily
Info: 604-972-1065; 88mekong.ca

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Yu-um! Need I say more? Maybe just this — chef Angus An is consulting chef. He, who showed Vancouver what Thai food really can be.

Missing Chopsticks

Where: 130-13880 Wireless Way, Richmond
When: Dinner Thursday-Sunday and alternate Wednesdays
Info: 604-783-8353; missingchopsticks.com

You’ll find yourself in an industrial area of Richmond in a minimalist room. The tasting menu — $138 for six courses when I visited — is refined and has French roots with Asian influences.

Sushi Mahana

Where: 175-Third Street West, North Vancouver
When: Dinner, Wednesday-Sunday
Info: 604-227-5270; sushimhana.com

At $250 per person, it’s a pricey experience, but chef and fish whisperer Hiroshi Hoshiko has a formidable understanding of seafood and how it must be processed and treated. The omakase experience is an exquisite journey.

Wa! Bagel

Where: Concourse Level, 666 Burrard St., Vancouver
When: Breakfast/lunch Monday-Friday
Info: 604-416-4900; wabagel.com

It’s just a bagel shop for downtown office workers, but I loved it. This Japanese import from the Aburi Group (Minami, Miku, Aburi markets) is a chewier, twistier, moister bagel — plain or filled (my fave is mochi red bean) or as sandwiches.

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Wildlight Kitchen and Bar

Where: 5380 University Blvd., Vancouver
When: Lunch and dinner, daily
Info: 604-938-8000; wildlightrestaurant.ca

Wildlight Kitchen and Bar got a commendable “recommended” from the Michelin Guide, and chef Warren Chow received a Michelin Young Chef Award in its first year. The West Coast food is accessible, globally inspired, and cooked with love and sustainable ingredients.

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