A brief history of bras and tips to find the perfect tip

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By definition, a bra is a basic garment.

Defined as an undergarment that supports the breasts, it typically features two straps, two cups and a supporting band. (Yes, the band is the primary source of support — we’ll say it again for those in the back).

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Despite its straightforward design, there are technical elements and important fit details that are key to both support and comfort. The width of the shoulder straps and band, along with material and shaping of the cups, are two examples of this.

For all the possible variations — strapless, full cup, demi cup, underwire-free, sports, etc. — bras have seemed slow to evolve since the first ‘modern’ bra was introduced by French inventor Herminie Cadolle in 1889. The style, called a corselet gorge, featured two cups supported by a broad band around the ribcage and two straps and a lace-up front, much like a corset. Sounds familiar, right?

But that doesn’t mean bras haven’t changed at all in the last 135 years.

According to Marianne Cobb, general manager of the Canadian-founded brand WonderBra, the evolution of the undergarment has been inspired by a few factors.

“Trends in fashion have changed many times in the course of 85 years, women’s body shapes have changed and fabric innovation has improved,” Cobb says. “Trends alone are why we do not see ‘cone’-shaped bras anymore. And fabric innovation has allowed for less bulky and more delicate bras.

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“COVID and working from home changed the way wireless bras became fashionable. And the rise of sports and casual dressing have changed how sports brands are now playing in our industry.”

Cup shape is one of the major aspects that have shifted, according to Cobb.

“Fabric and cup innovation, as well as closures and trims have all become lighter, and flatter and less bulky, while providing more support than before, so this also has changed the shape of bras,” the industry insider explains. “Fabric now has more stretch and support than previously, as well as the possibility of being more lightweight yet just as strong as a heavier fabric.

“Fasteners are now sometimes integrated into the wing (the area that attaches from the outer cup and wraps around the rib cage), and straps and elastics are flatter than before, all driving in overall esthetic changes for bras.”

Sustainability considerations are also showing up in the bra industry through fabric choices such as WonderBra’s collection of undergarments sewn from fabrics made from post-consumer recycled polyester and nylon, and even Lyocell foam cups made from soy.

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Beyond the design side, Cobb says innovation is happening in the industry with increased sizing ranges (the company’s plus-sized Just My Size collection launched in 1989) and styles targeting specific needs such as adaptivity with considerations related to mastectomies, and activity level.

Founded in 1939 in Montreal and now owned by U.S.-based HanesBrands, WonderBra has become a mainstay for mass-market undergarments throughout the last 85 years, affording it a unique view of the changing needs of bra wearers.

But, throughout its eight-plus decades in the industry, one main thing has always stayed the same: the purpose.

“What has stayed the same is that bras are intended for support,” Cobb says. “Bras can be bought for many occasions, but support is still the main reason.”

5 fit tips to find the perfect bra

In 2012, we ran a story about bra-fitting tips that everyone should know. Twelve years later, the expert tips offered by Diane Thomson, owner of Vancouver boutique Diane’s Lingerie, still ring true.

“As long as it’s straight across the back, and there is no overflow and fits snug at the bottom, that means the bra fits you well,” Thomson summarized in the article. To dive deeper into bra fitting, we asked the WonderBra team to dish on some additional fit suggestions.

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Here are five top tips to find a perfect fit:

1. Know your size: To help decode bra sizes, standard sizing typically include a number (the band measurement around the ribcage) and a letter (the cup size). So 32A, 34B, 36C, etc. Visiting a bra fitting expert is the best way to help you find your perfect size. “Underwires should not cut or poke into the breast tissue, they should fit under the breast for comfort,” the Wonderbra team shares. “Cups should fit smoothly without any wrinkle of overspilling.”

2. Focus on the band size first: A tape measure placed around the ribcage below the breasts can provide the correct band size. But the cup size can be a bit trickier. The alphabetical letters (A to G, and beyond) refer to the size of the breasts in relation to the ribcage. This requires trial-and-error try-on. According to the Wonderbra team, a bra should fit flat agains the breastbone between the two cups. If there’s a gap between the bra and you’re skin, it’s likely because you need a larger cup size.

3. Make the right adjustments: Armed with the knowledge that the band of a bra does most of the heavy lifting, it’s important to select a bra that fits with the band on the middle hook. This means that there’s some sizing play if you gain or lose weight. “Straps should fit snug but not tight, you should be able to fit two fingers under the straps, not more,” the Wonderbra team advises. This will avoid pain to the neck and shoulders from overly tightened straps.

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4. Avoid the most common mistake: If a bra is ill-fitting, it’s most likely because you’re wearing the wrong size. If a band is riding high across the back, the band is too big and the cup size is too small. “The band should not ride up. It should sit straight, parallel to the ground. If the band is sitting straight the band is giving you optimal support,” the Wonderbra team shares.

5. Be open to change: Breasts are always changing size — be it because of aging, childbirth or weight gain/loss. As your breasts change, so should your bra size. Get rechecked for sizing, and reconsider the sizing of your bras, regularly.

Aharris@postmedia.com

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