Anthony Gismondi: Best wines for turkey avoid big tannic styles

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Thanksgiving arrives Oct. 14, giving you just over one week to organize and select some wines for the big dinner. Despite the rush by many to extinguish all that is classic in society, particularly holidays like Thanksgiving, a good number still take the time to slow down to connect with family, savour a day of tradition, and, in keeping with its moniker, give thanks for what we have.

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We stick with classic picks this week in deference to those planning to roast the traditional turkey and for anyone hoping to get a break from all the look-alike, taste-alike, junk brands that monopolize all the shelf space at retail. There is plenty of leeway when picking turkey wines, and for the unaware, there is no consensus on colour regarding the classic turkey wine match. Red, white and rosé are all in play. You can’t go wrong with any as long as you avoid the over-oaked and or big tannic styles that clash with the flavour and texture of the bird.

We look at six styles representing blends and varietals that should enhance your meal. We suggest picking two or three and serving all of them throughout the meal. Most importantly, wine should not be the focus of any Thanksgiving celebration; rather, it should simply be a supporting member of a memorable day with family and friends.

We start with Riesling, which proves turkey and all the trimmings work well with various styles of riesling. However, the crisp, tangy style cuts through the fat in the turkey, the gravy, the potatoes — you get the point. Freshness versus fatty foods is the trick. You can also play with sugar levels, going from dry to off-dry and even sweet, to combat the spice or heat in any dish. Look to local Riesling, German offerings and Australia’s Clare Valley.

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Chenin Blanc is as versatile as turkey, often made in various styles that range from dry and off-dry to semi-sweet and super sweet. Chenin is also used in sparklers that are dry and semi-dry. Like Riesling, its secret weapon is freshness and acidity with bright, fruity melon, citrus, nectarine, pear, green apple and honeysuckle flavours. You can choose from local sparkling Chenin Blanc, the Loire Valley, and several choices from South Africa.

New World or next world Chardonnay is a classic match with its fresher, brighter, and more food-friendly structure yet intense flavours. Any savoury spiced bird with similar stuffing would be a great match with Chardonnay, and your choices are almost limitless, from local Okanagan picks to California, Australia, Burgundy, and France. There are several recipes for Chardonnay gravy on the web if you want to pull the wine right into the dish.

Gamay is all over the turkey match because of its bright, penetrating red fruit flavours. Think cranberries, pomegranate and cassis, all with a savoury undercurrent that cries out for turkey and all its accoutrements. France (Beaujolais) and B.C. labels are the smart choices.

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Pinot Noir, at least New World selections, works well with turkey. It’s soft, round, and fruity yet substantial in the mouth, providing enough acidity to deal with rich dishes. It also has herbal-savoury notes to complement the sage, thyme, and fennel flavours that rule the Thanksgiving table.

Finally, with so many delicious Rhone reds in the market, consider selecting something from this genre. The wines of Ventoux make an excellent turkey choice with their medium-bodied, elegant, and fruity style made in varying proportions of Grenache, Cinsault, Syrah and Carignan. Below are a dozen picks sold in B.C. liquor stores. Relax, enjoy, and, above all, drink responsibly.

• Tantalus 2023 Riesling, East Kelowna Slopes, B.C. $30.99 in 40 stores

• Selbach 2021 Riesling Fish Label, Mosel, Germany $22.99 in 84 stores

• Tania and Vincent Carême 2021 Chenin Blanc Terre Brûlée, Swartland, SA $23.99 in 108 stores

• Ken Forrester 2022 Old Vine Reserve Chenin Blanc, Stellenbosch, SA $24.99 in 87 stores

• Quails’ Gate 2022 Chardonnay, West Kelowna, B.C. $26.99 in 140 stores

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• Blue Mountain 2022 Estate Cuvée Chardonnay, Okanagan Falls B.C. $28 in private stores

• Robin Ridge 2022 Organic Gamay, Keremeos B.C $25.90 in 86 stores

• Louis Jadot 2021 Beaujolais-Villages Combe aux Jacques, France $26.99 in 111 stores

• La Crema 2022 Pinot Noir, Monterey County, California $32.99 in 129 stores

• CedarCreek 2022 Pinot Noir, East Kelowna Slopes, B.C. $30.99 in 72 stores

• Les Halos de Jupiter 2020 Côtes du Rhône, France $25.49  in 112 stores

• Brunel de la Gardine 2020 Côtes du Rhône, France $23.99 in 124 stores

Weekend wine picks

Domaine de Paris Côtes de Provence Rosé 2023, Provence, France

$26.99 I 90/100

UPC: 34861001003

A 40/30/20/10 mix of Grenache/Syrah/Cinsault/Carignan is behind this fragrant, delicate, floral, red-fruited rosé that is true to the Provençal style. The colour is classic pale pink, with tart strawberry and a fresh, elegant finish. Built for the summer and the fall, this would work with turkey or salmon.

LaStella Fortissimo 2022, Osoyoos, Okanagan Valley

$29.99 I 89/100

UPC: 808755020218

Fortissimo is an ode to the pioneers of Tuscany who challenged the traditions of classic winemaking in the 1950s and ’60s to elevate the reputation of Italian wines when they were suffering internationally. Grower winemaker Severine Pinte uses large format puncheons and Hungarian-Slavonian oak with any barely new wood to keep the oak in check and let the terroir speak. In 2022 the savoury side of this wine was evident, with only marginal plum and black cherry poking through the midpalate, with a rush of desert scrub, tobacco, and more dried herbs that run through the finish. There is plenty of substance here if a bit on the dry side, but nothing a steak or a mushroom burger wouldn’t tweak as it blossoms in the bottle. The blend is 45 per cent Merlot, 20 per cent Cabernet Sauvignon, 27 per cent Cabernet Franc, and 8 per cent Sangiovese, all grown on Black Sage Bench and in the Osoyoos Lake District.

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Rodney Strong Cabernet Sauvignon 2020, Sonoma County, California

$29.99 I 90/100

UPC: 087512912359

Rodney Strong first planted Cabernet Sauvignon over 55 years ago at Alexander’s Crown on a small hill in Jimtown, Sonoma County. Today, the RS Cabernet Sauvignon sites stretch from Jimtown to Geyserville and north to Cloverdale. The classic Sonoma label opens with warm, rich black cherry that spills onto the palate, mixing with more black plums, a hint of milk chocolate, oak spice, black pepper, and warm, dense, slippery tannins. You can easily enjoy this now or drink it through 2026. Ribs, steaks, beef tacos, or even a spaghetti Bolognese work here.

Unsworth Vineyards Pinot Gris 2023, Cowichan Valley, Vancouver Island

$27.90 I 90/100

UPC: 626990258957

The Unsworth style is not for everyone unless you are a fan of purity and precision, which happens to be the signature of its Pinot Gris, a wine that can transport you to northern Italy and its magical Pinot Grigio zone, Fruili. Three Cowichan vineyards are home to this tasty Gris, and each shares a unique mix of marine silts and loams. Look for a lean, taut, mineral-scented white full of crunchy fresh greens dusted in saline notes. This would work well at your Thanksgiving table.

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1 Mill Road Chardonnay 2022, East Kelowna Slopes, Okanagan Valley

$47.99 I 91/100

UPC: 628942298684

The year 2022 was a long, cool growing season, and it yielded a delicious, well-balanced Chardonnay long on flavour. I love the vibrancy and salty, citrus nuttiness with a ripe pear undercurrent. Fresh and lean with restraint and elegance, it is a solid addition to the 1 Mill lineup. The handpicked fruit was pressed, and 85 per cent was fermented in seasoned French oak puncheons, while the remainder was fermented in new French oak barriques. Post ferment, the wine aged in a barrel for nine months before blending and bottling. Good value.

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Ever wonder if you are getting a bargain buying wine on sale? A 29-page class-action lawsuit summarizes that “nearly every wine product” sold by Albertsons Companies, the second-largest supermarket chain in North America, is perpetually on sale, meaning members are not receiving the bargain they thought they were. The suit alleges that Albertsons sells wine products with a fake strikethrough reference price accompanied by a purportedly lower discounted “member” price. In truth, the strikethrough wine prices are “purely fictitious and not based on comparable sales offerings in the market” or the former price at which the product was sold. The suit says the fictitious price is offered to deceive consumers into believing they are getting a bargain —caveat emptor, folks, when you are shopping for wine.

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•••

Andre St. Jacques and partner chef Melissa Craig have finally reopened the Sooke Harbour House on Vancouver Island. The pair were the soul of the Bearfoot Bistro in Whistler, and the plan is to restore Sooke to its former glory when it was the darling of international food and wine travellers. They also plan to be more responsive to the knowledgeable Vancouver Island food and wine crowd who will likely become regulars at the new Sooke Harbour House Bistro, a casual setting with a West Coast vibe. The main dining room has been completely renovated as it prepares to amaze guests with nightly spectacular, local, and sustainable hanging menus. The property employs over 100 locals and will be a welcome addition to the South Vancouver Island food and wine scene, not to mention its economy. You can book tables and rooms at sookeharbourhouse.com.

B.C. wine of the week

Le Vieux Pin Petit Rouge 2023, Okanagan Valley

$31.99 I 89/100

UPC: 808755016761

Petit Rouge is made like any other wine at Le Vieux Pin, but it is always more accessible upon release thanks to fruit from younger vines and vines pruned and cropped at less stringent levels. In 2023, a well-regarded and generous vintage, the mix is mostly Merlot, with Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc and a touch of Syrah. The palate is lively and harmonious, the fruit plummy and spicy with a dusting of dried desert scrub. The balance is perfect; the tannins and acids are present but balanced. It is equally at home with pork chops, sausages, a pâté charcuterie board, vegan enchiladas or a hearty ratatouille as the weather cools in the fall.

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Value wine of the week

Medici Ermete Bei Momenti Reggiano Lambrusco N/V, Emilia-Romagna, Italy

$18.99 I 88/100

UPC: 8004810149487

Lambrusco is a wine made from the eponymous Italian grape grown in eight DOC regions across Emilia Romagna. The Quercioli Reggiano Secco Lambrusco is a patio pour that opens with some signature floral and red fruit scents that never quit. Dry and harmonious, everything is heightened by the frothy bubbles. In Emilia Romagna, they love to serve this wine with Traditional Emilian cuisine: lasagna, tagliatelle with bolognese ragu, cured pork meat, tortelli stuffed with greens, sage, and butter, chicken with plums, beef tartare and filet with green pepper. This week, I’m suggesting turkey.

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