Michelin Guide explained: What its stars mean to Vancouver restaurants

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The Michelin Guide creates big buzz with its annual reveal of newly anointed restaurants and then disappears into its mysterious and clam-like existence. But people are curious — will the Guide expand into more B.C. culinary destinations? How can restaurants and chefs get noticed by inspectors? Has it helped the struggling industry? Why doesn’t Vancouver, with so many greener than green, ecologically minded chefs, have any green stars? Are chefs wishing upon two stars, breaking Vancouver’s one-star ceiling?

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In answer to the expansion question, there are still two years left on Michelin’s exclusive five-year agreement with Destination Vancouver. Richmond, Whistler, Victoria, Vancouver Island and the Okanagan will have to wait.

And then, there’s that persistent rumour that Destination Vancouver paid $5 million for the five-year Michelin contract, but it seems overblown in comparison to other contracts. For example, the entire province of Quebec’s recent deal reportedly cost $550,000 over three years.

“I can neither confirm nor deny,” says Royce Chwin, president and CEO of Destination Vancouver.

“The $5 million (rumour) definitely didn’t come from us. I think, from what we know, we have a very reasonable value association with Michelin. I look at Quebec and can’t say we pay more or less.” Michelin, he says, saw the concentration of restaurants in Vancouver and preferred to initially focus there.

In an email, the anonymous chief inspector for the Michelin Guide in North America would only offer this: “We are always evaluating exciting new destinations for the Guide….We look forward to expanding coverage and discovering restaurants in new areas, but we don’t have any news to share about new guide destinations in North America at this time.”

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Chwin has talked to his Richmond and Whistler counterparts.

“Whether something changes after five years, we’re open to having partners.” Destination B.C., the provincial tourism equivalent to Destination Vancouver, he says, has been facing budget pressures. “It’s declining, not growing, so it’s not surprising,” he says of their absence from the scene.

I’m curious as to why the Michelin Group, the world’s largest tire-manufacturing company, is still involved in reviewing restaurants. Boosting tire sales by helping motorists on road trips seems antiquated. The chief inspector said the company suggests making tires for all sorts of vehicles so travel is good for business.

“Michelin also accompanies travellers on their mobility experiences thanks to tourist guides, hotels and restaurant guides and atlases, and other useful digital products and services.”

On inspection practices, the chief inspector says: “Michelin Guide inspectors enjoy complete independence in choosing the restaurants they visit. Only their knowledge of the local gastronomic scene — through research, social media, monitoring and documentation — helps them find their way around. No one can tell the difference between a regular customer and a guide inspector. Their identity, when they are visiting and where, are all kept secret. They pay their own bills, just as any other restaurant-goer.”

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The inspector wouldn’t say how many inspectors visit Vancouver restaurants “to maintain their anonymity and protect the independence of their process.” But star quality restaurants are visited “several times throughout the year by different inspectors to ensure consistent quality.”

As to how restaurants can be better noticed, the advice is, “do what you’re doing and fill seats with happy customers. Cook for your patrons, not for Michelin. Do this on a consistent basis and Michelin’s inspectors will find you.”

One of the five criteria by which Michelin inspectors evaluate restaurants needs deeper explanation — the voice and personality of the chef as reflected in their cuisine. How is that captured on a plate?

“Inspectors are looking to see what sets a restaurant apart and makes that establishment stand out in a destination,” was the reply. In other words, uniqueness. If a chef wants more hints, tough luck.

“The team responds to inquiries on a case-by-case basis but does not offer guidance or consultation to restaurant professionals.”

I’ve wondered why Michelin hasn’t bestowed a green star on some of Vancouver’s earnestly sustainable restaurants. And how inspectors go about discovering them without talking to chefs about their behind-the-scenes practices.

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“The general global considerations our inspectors are looking for in a green star are those at the top of their game when it comes to their sustainable practices. They consider things such as: the restaurant’s environmental footprint; food waste systems; general waste disposal and recycling; resource management; and the communication between the team and the guests about the restaurant’s sustainable approach. Initiatives can take various forms, and no two restaurants will be alike — all our inspectors are looking  for is a strong commitment to sustainable gastronomy.”

Many Vancouver chefs, I think, don’t make a big deal of sustainable practices. It’s just the way they operate. Perhaps the deep green restaurants ought to start posting that information on their websites.

Since the guide launched in Vancouver following the pandemic, did it help defibrillate the restaurant community? The answer would be yes, but still, all is not well.

“What I’m hearing is, Michelin drives interest in the culinary scene. Being recognized (by Michelin) has helped restaurants hire and retain service staff and creates more people engagement and media pickup,” says Chwin.

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“What we find interesting, when we compare Vancouver’s footprint relative to cities like Toronto, is that we have more recognition, per capita. The ratio speaks volumes about Vancouver’s offerings.”

J.C. Poirier, chef and owner of St. Lawrence restaurant and with one star for three years, agrees that Michelin benefits the city. “It’s good for the city’s visibility in the world. Michelin has been around for so long, it’s very well respected, especially in Europe.” And for his restaurant, he feels “a star shines like in the sky.”

It didn’t necessarily help drive traffic to the restaurant as it’s always been busy but it did help him find great cooks and servers.

“There are fewer and fewer cooks and servers. The new generation isn’t as interested in doing that,” he finds. In the past year, though, diners became more frugal and St. Lawrence went from being full every single day to having some quieter weekdays.

“Never before,” he says. “It’s the economy, interest rates, groceries. It’s a little out of control.”

As for reaching for a second star, Poirier isn’t shooting for it. “It’s a dream for a lot of people but I have other dreams in life. I don’t obsess about it. Quite honestly, I prefer the one-star places. They’re approachable, personable, authentic. That’s what I want St. Lawrence to be — busy, bustling, fun with lots of conversation but high quality. I have no intention of going to tasting menus, smaller portions. I want to cook from my heart — a higher level of home cooking.” He does his own thing, he says, because “comparison is the thief of joy.”

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Ian Tostenson, president and CEO of the B.C. Restaurant and Foodservices Association, is grateful for Michelin’s presence over the three years but feels the current situation needs  more.

“Absolutely. For sure. In general, it’s been really positive. Any recognition is great,” he says.

But restaurants are suffering and surviving on fumes and pure passion.

“They’re in tougher shape than during the pandemic with inflation and staff shortages. Operating costs are up 20 per cent but the average menu price increase is seven per cent. Michelin is not going to change the outcome of the problem. Consumers, too, are being very selective. The happy hour crowd wants to go out but also save money.”

He lobs the statistics: 50 per cent of B.C. food service and hospitality businesses are unprofitable, a five-fold increase since the beginning of the pandemic.  About 81 per cent took on debt during the pandemic. A labour shortage has restaurants operating at about 80 per cent capacity.

January saw a 110 per cent increase in the bankruptcy rate of Canadian restaurants over the previous year, the highest yet, says Tostenson.

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“The average four to five per cent profit margins, pre-tax, were never good, but they’re even worse now. Our main purpose is to help figure out an economic model to survive. There’s so much government regulation and red tape that’s costing so much, from liquor policies to employment standards, to taxes, waiting times for licences and permits, foreign worker policies, and on and on. It’s so complex.”

Despite it all, he says, Michelin “shows the quality and diversity of our food concepts. Some small restaurants are doing amazing things and it’s pretty cool.”

He does feel that Michelin, like wine, needs to be demystified. “I don’t know if the public really understands the ratings. They might view it as exclusive, but some restaurants that aren’t fine dining are doing really good things.”

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