Anthony Gismondi: Pinot Noir is destined to take the lead in B.C. Here's why
We touched on the Pinot Noir grape results last week, but it is clear the Pinot Noir category at the WineAlign National Wine Awards established itself as the most admired category by the judges, who have been watching it evolve in leaps and bounds over the last decade.
The famously demanding grape, which tends to develop any number of ailments when viewed from the wrong angle, seems to have found a foothold in Canada and is currently excelling from west to east.
Could the turning point have been when winemakers began making Canadian Pinot Noir rather than slavishly trying to replicate French Burgundies?
It doesn’t hurt sales when so few people — namely a small portion of the world’s wealthiest individuals — can afford French Burgundy today. That said, prices are rising rapidly in the rest of the Pinot world, so assessments like the annual NWAC tastings are beneficial for buyers, primarily due to the large number of wines involved in the tastings. Offshore medals are always lovely to win, but they rarely face the competition of an NWAC category.
This year, a record 160 Pinot Noir labels were entered. The top 69 were brought back for the final round tastings, which, together with the rest of the first-round wines, produced five platinum medals for wines scoring 93 points or higher, followed by 16 gold medals at 91 points or higher, 47 silver medals at 89 points or higher, and 46 high-level bronze medals.
Over the years, B.C. Pinot plantings have expanded as growers continue to find suitable terroirs to cultivate the delicate grape. The latest figures from the B.C. Wine Grape Council Annual Crop Assessment show Pinot Noir just behind Merlot at 11.5 per cent of total tonnage. If Mother Nature co-operates with the new plantings in the near future, Pinot is destined to take the lead.
NWAC Judge HJ Cha of Kaleden, B.C. says: “Despite the common stereotype — B.C. producing riper, robust, more fruit-driven styles and Ontario leaning toward lighter, delicate, more restrained expressions — blind tasting showed that it’s increasingly difficult to pinpoint a wine’s provincial origin. Instead, stylistic choices by winemakers played a bigger role: clonal selection, tannin management, and maturation vessels all contribute to a wine’s character. In many cases, the stylistic differences within a single valley were greater than those between provinces.”
The platinum medals in order of scores went to: Meyer 2022 Old Block Pinot Noir McLean Creek Road Vineyard, $47.91; SpearHead 2022 Okanagan Valley Pinot Noir $41.40; Lightning Rock Winery 2022 Pinot Noir Canyonview Vineyard $40: 1 Mill Road 2022 Pinot Noir Home Block $65; and SpearHead 2022 Pommard Clone Pinot Noir $52.90.
To be sure, Pinot Noir is expensive, but relative to French Red Burgundy, it is likely 10 times cheaper while closing the quality gap at breakneck speed. Your best bet for finding our best Pinot Noir is to visit the property and purchase it directly from the winery. Good hunting.
Weekend wine picks
Quails’ Gate Pinot Noir 2022, Okanagan Valley
$34.99 I 88/100
UPC:
778856121209
Quails’ Gate was among the earliest pioneers to work with Pinot Noir, and they have been raising the bar ever since. Post-fermentation, this spends about 10 to 14 days on skins, gathering additional colour and depth, before aging for 10 months in French oak, a time well suited to delicate, cool-climate Pinot Noir. The ’22 mixes cedar, sweet and sour black cherries, black tea, brown sugar, and gentle tannins. This year’s style is slightly more approachable than in 2021.
Unsworth Vineyards Pinot Noir 2022, Cowichan Valley, Vancouver Island
$39.90 I 91/100
UPC:
626990259008
The introductory Unsworth Pinot comes off its Cowichan estate hillside blocks. It is fermented in stainless steel before aging for 15 months in (15 per cent new) French oak. Look for classic perfumed island aromas, led by dark plums, ripe raspberries dusted with baking spices, and a green forest floor scrub with bright acidity. The lightness and ethereal nature of this 12.1 per cent Pinot seal the deal for aficionados. Complex and thought-provoking, it is the essence of Pinot Noir, which you can drink most nights with uncomplicated foods.
Lightning Rock Reserve Pinot Noir Canyonview Vineyard 2022, Summerland Bench, Okanagan Valley
$50 I 92/100
UPC:
626990364856
The Canyonview Reserve is one of several Pinot Noirs produced at Summerland’s Lightning Rock Winery. Their reserve version of Canyonview Vineyard is marked by its distinctive black label. The vines, now 22 years old, are planted in sandy granite-streaked soils in Upper Summerland. Look for sweet black cherry notes, mixed with the scent of mossy forest floors and earth tones. The palate is silky smooth, with 12.5 per cent alcohol, ripe, dark plum and cherry notes, complemented by a hint of stems.
Blue Mountain Pinot Noir Single Vineyard Block 14 Gravel Force 2022, Okanagan Falls
$55 I 94/100
UPC:
626452571228
Block 14, named Gravel Force, is a nod to the numerous small, round stones mixed into light clay over an old, dry river bed. It faces west and south, receiving a substantial dose of Okanagan Falls sun each day, which contributes to the structure and power of the wine made from 35-year-old vines. The result is a more opulent, riper style, almost muscular, with hints of Bing cherries and plums, all blended with a round, cola-like savoury finish à la Central Otago. The tannins are polished and silky, making it a pleasure to sip. A hedonistic wine this year that will only attract more buyers. Big value.
1 Mill Road Pinot Noir Home Block 2023, Naramata Bench, Okanagan Valley
$65 I 91/100
UPC:
628942298707
There is a fine core of fruit with depth that frames this Pinot, and early on it dominates the entry before graphite, black tea, and spice intervene to balance the wine right through the finish. Quiet, complex, and inviting, with some savoury notes underneath and a fine texture throughout. Bright and fresh upfront, but that fades into a more moody Pinot in the finish. It was aged in a mix of barrels and larger puncheons to enhance the balance.
Calendar items
Minami (1118 Mainland St., Vancouver), Yaletown’s home to contemporary Japanese cuisine, is hosting a one-night-only Winemaker’s Dinner in partnership with the iconic Jermann Winery from Friuli, Italy, on August 13. Guests will be seated on Minami’s hidden garden patio while enjoying a seasonal multi-course menu paired with Jermann’s award-winning wines. Family member Felix Jermann is making the trip to Vancouver for dinner to share the story of three generations devoted to the land, innovation, and the heart of Friuli. Tickets are $170 per person. The five-course menu will feature a variety of unique Jermann vintages, paired with chef Lupe Villanueva’s creations. Bookings are now available online at
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Volume 3 of the Riesling Project continues whether you find yourself up the mountain at Mekong in Whistler, near the sea at Vancouver’s westside Maenam restaurant, or at Chef An’s latest creation, Sainam, in the West End on Davie. The newest blend originates from two B.C. wineries, whose Rieslings were carefully blended to achieve the gastronomic goal of the project. This year, the bright acidity, coupled with the complexity of skin contact, comes from Rhy’s Pender’s work with Little Farm Winery’s Similkameen Riesling, which seems to have perfectly matched the pristine, slightly off-dry North Naramata Riesling, courtesy of Synchromesh Wines in Okanagan Falls. Riesling Project Volume 3 is available on all wine lists until it’s not.
Value wine of the week
Road 13 Honest John’s Rosé 2024, Washington
$20.99 I 89/100
UPC:
776545502407
Expect a pale colour with some bright florals and candied strawberry on the nose. The palate is fresh, light, lacking intensity, but otherwise delicate, showing red fruits, peaches, watermelon, and a touch of sherbet. Dry, ready to drink, and quite a bargain. The blend consists of 45 per cent Cabernet Sauvignon, 22 per cent Merlot, 19 per cent Cabernet Franc, 10 per cent Syrah, and 4 per cent Grenache.
B.C. wine of the week
Tightrope Winery Chardonnay 2023, Okanagan Valley
$30 I 89/100
UPC:
626990244493
From the Naramata Bench, this is a whole-cluster pressed Chardonnay that is barrel-fermented in French oak. Fifty per cent of the wine undergoes malolactic fermentation, and all of it ages on its lees for nine months. In the end, this is a lean, tightly wound mid-valley Chardonnay that combines floral notes and lemon with bright acidity and green apple flavours. Simplicity in a sophisticated package. Halibut, anyone?
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Source: vancouversun.com