Anthony Gismondi: How this Penticton winery elevates bubbles to sparkling success
Start with sparkle — it’s how Evolve Sparkling House owners Ron and Shelly Mayert suggest B.C. wine country visitors begin at the Naramata Bench, minutes from downtown Penticton. The newest player in the local wine industry is situated on the edge of Okanagan Lake, providing exceptional views of Penticton’s north shore, westward across the water toward Summerland, and extending north along the lake’s expanse.
The Mayerts, who own Chronos Winery and Orolo Restaurant in downtown Penticton, spent considerable time exploring wine facilities abroad before opening their stand-alone sparkling winery, just in time to capitalize on wine drinkers reaching more often for a glass of bubbles.
A significant factor in their success is the quality of the Evolve Sparkling House sparklers produced by winemaker Lynzee Schatz and her team. Schatz began her journey more than 20 years ago as a cellar hand at Summerhill Pyramid Winery. In time, she found herself in Australia at the prestigious Domaine Chandon, where she honed her sparkling wine knowledge among some of Australia’s brightest sparkling wine minds. Schatz completed stops in California and Ontario along the way before joining Chronos Winery and Evolve in 2019, where she “could really home in on her passion for sparkling wine.”
The design, hospitality and pricing you encounter at Evolve Sparkling House offer a unique experience among B.C. wineries. Guests can choose from three visit options, including the Splash + Dash: a 30-minute tasting of three signature Evolve wines for $13 per person — a quick way to enjoy some sparkle on the go and something desperately needed at many other wineries.
Flight Mode offers a leisurely, 45-minute curated flight of four wines, allowing you to choose between an all-sparkling lineup or a mix of sparkling and still wines. The experience is priced at $25 per person, with a $10 wine purchase credit included.
Bubbles + Bites is a one-hour guided experience featuring five wines paired with a mix of amuse-bouche bites from OROLO Restaurant and Cocktail Bar — $55 per person.
Evolve makes three Méthode Champenoise or traditional method sparkling wines that undergo the second fermentation inside the bottle. The star of the program is the 2018 Brut Nature aged 60 months on its lees that was disgorged and recorked with zero dosage, that is no sugar — a serious bubble, with a serious demeanour.
Next up is the 2018 Brut Rosé. Finished with a tiny splash of Syrah that sets its charming pink hue. At 1.5 grams per litre of sugar, this Rosé is essentially dry and would be a fine match for salmon pâté as served at the winery.
The Brut Premier is a slightly friendlier version, with a more fruit-forward style after aging some 36 months. It is made with a blend of vineyards, all of which make it eminently drinkable, both inside and out. The blend is 67 per cent Chardonnay and 33 per cent Pinot Noir.
Evolve Sparkling House, accessible from the iconic Kettle Valley Rail Trail, is a perfect stop for cyclists, hikers, and adventurers looking to unwind after exploring all the Naramata Bench has to offer. Other visitors driving will find the property off Lower Bench Road heading north from Penticton, just south of Poplar Grove. Look for the pink Adirondack chairs.
Weekend wine picks
Evolve Brut Premiere 2020, Okanagan Valley
$39.99 I 91/100
UPC:
696852145022
Brut Premier is a traditional method sparkling wine that mixes 67 per cent Chardonnay with 33 per cent Pinot Noir. Winemaker Lynzee Schatz has a special touch when it comes to wine, and that touch is light. The Chardonnay gets plenty of lees stirring, while the Pinot was left on its own. The final blend was aged 36-plus months before the final disgorgement and bottling. There is no rush to drink this pale straw bubble that presents a clean, fresh, biscuity palate with bright florals and inviting toast that finishes dry. First class and will age effortlessly, 7-10 years.
Evolve Brut Nature 2018, Okanagan Valley
$49.99 I 91/100
UPC:
626990233534
Brut Nature is composed of 50 per cent Chardonnay, 40 per cent Pinot Noir, and 10 per cent Pinot Blanc, sourced from Penticton and Kelowna. Unlike many other examples from B.C., it is aged for 60 months on the lees. The wine is notably dry, with vibrant, youthful fruit flavours including crisp pear and yellow apple, complemented by subtle notes of hazelnuts and a pronounced autolytic character reminiscent of toasted bread. The finish is mineral-driven, accented by a hint of savoury desert brush. This outstanding bottle can be enjoyed now or cellared through its tenth anniversary. Good value.
Evolve Brut Rosé 2018, Okanagan Valley
$49.99 I 90/100
UPC:
696852096096
Seven years down the road and after spending the first five on its lees, this sparkling rosé is a treat to look at and sip. The mix is an intriguing blend of 50 per cent Chardonnay, 40 per cent Pinot Noir, 9 per cent Pinot Blanc, and 1 pr cent Syrah, carefully selected to achieve a perfect Provencal pink colour. The mouth is a complex yet inviting mix of strawberries and grapefruit pith with tiny bubbles that finish creamy in the aftertaste. It is food friendly and would be the perfect match for smoked salmon blinis. Ready to drink.
Evolve Rosé 2023, Okanagan Valley
$29.99 I 88/100
UPC:
69685214498
The Evolve still Rosé comes off a single site in Osoyoos. It reflects the versatility of Syrah grapes to achieve a structured Rosé with bright acidity, subtle spice, and barely ripe red berry fruit. There was no skin contact, and the fermentation was long and cool over 21 days. Bright, dry, and fresh, this is on a good path and needs just a little more lift and riper fruit to get to the next level.
Evolve Grenache 2022, Okanagan Valley
$45.99 I 91/100
UPC:
696852096072
There’s nothing like true, authentic Grenache, and Evolve winemaker Lynzee Schatz has knocked it out of the park with this first release, clearly demonstrating the Okanagan Valley’s diversification at a dizzying pace. The colour is perfectly mid to light red, and the nose is awash in vibrant red fruit, including raspberries, cranberries, and cherries that spill onto the palate. It is simply fun to drink, especially with a slight chill.
Calendar items
L’Abattoir’s popular Sipping Around B.C. dinner series returns on Thursday, Oct. 23, from 6 -9 p.m., in partnership with S. Pellegrino, featuring B.C. wines from Averill Creek Vineyard, Unsworth Vineyards and Kutatás Wines. The evening brings together top B.C. winemakers and winery principals, expertly paired food and wine, in a celebration of island terroir and microclimates. Tickets, priced at $195 plus tax and gratuity, are available one month before the event online at
, with priority access for past attendees. Guests will also have the opportunity to purchase featured wines at cellar door pricing.
•••
Nico and Keri Schuermans, owners of Chambar Restaurant, have announced the final apprentice dinner of the year, highlighting the debut menu from their eldest son, Maxim. Maxim has been involved at Chambar from a young age, starting with kitchen tasks such as hand-cutting fries and packing meals during COVID, then working as a dishwasher after school for a year before officially joining full time at 17. He has since progressed to chef de partie. Raised in the Pacific Northwest and influenced by travel experiences, Maxim’s approach to flavour combines local ingredients with broad influences. His future includes continuing his professional development in Montreal at Garde Manger under chef Chris Merrick, an alumnus of Chambar. Maxim’s four-course, $65 menu will be available throughout October and feature homestyle dishes.
B.C. wine of the week
Unsworth Vineyards Wild Island Auxerrois 2023, Cowichan Valley, Vancouver Island
$28.90 I 90/100
UPC:
626990320371
This wild fermented white is a charming wine, offering ripe melon and yellow fruit splashed with lemon, creating a perfect level of acidity that supports but does not overpower. It is an ideal wine for spaghetti vongole or a Margherita pizza, and the best part? It’s ready to drink now. The Unsworth Auxerrois vines were planted in the early 1990s at the Zanatta Vineyard in the Cowichan Valley.
Value wine of the week
Zuccardi Serie A Malbec 2023, Valle de Uco, Argentina
$24.99 I 91/100
UPC:
7791728021301
When you taste a Zuccardi Malbec, it is easy to wonder what the rest of the country is doing, with a few exceptions. The grapes come from vineyards in the Uco Valley area, at an altitude of 1,100 meters. It is fermented wild in a mix of concrete and oak, and aged for a short eight months. The result is a juicy and rich, elegant wine with a transparency that sucks you into the glass. The bright acidity and round, mouth-filling, black savoury fruit are perfectly balanced. The layering of flavours, flecked with the nuances of spice and florals, enriches the final taste. It is a polished wine that reaches far above its price range. Buy and drink, or hold, the choice is yours — back up the truck.
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Source: vancouversun.com