Anthony Gismondi: This longtime French winemaker believes 'we need more wine in the world'
The 47th Vancouver International Wine Festival is fast approaching at a time when much of the wine world is in turmoil. Yet amid the myriad challenges in the vineyard, including climate change, shifting consumer demand, governments seeking more tax revenue, tariffs everywhere and a strong anti-alcohol lobby, wineries with focus and strong leadership continue to thrive.
One such story is that of French winemaker Gérard Bertrand, whose team will represent him at the upcoming festival as part of a strong French contingent that headlines this year’s show. Gérard’s punishing schedule allows him only a brief stop in Vancouver for a trade tasting, but many Bertrand wines will be featured in seminars, dinners and the tasting room all week.
Gérard grew up in the Languedoc in the Corbieres area, “in the middle of nowhere.” When he was 10 years old, his father told him it was time to be in the cellar at harvest. He said, “It was a great experience and, when it was over, my father said, ‘You know, Gérard, you are lucky, when you are 50, you will have 40 years of experience.” Gérard will make his 51st harvest later this year.
Gérard aims to raise Languedoc wines to the same esteem as Champagne, Bordeaux and Burgundy. It begins with “understanding the history, the culture and the behaviour of people. The Greeks arrived 24 centuries ago; the Phoenicians arrived on an urban beach just behind Château Hospitalet. They brought with them the claret grape, Indigenous to the region, and planted vineyards there. We have roots between the Greeks, the Romans, and then the Visigoths, and we still have the footprint of these guys.”
Gérard is famous for challenging his team to do something different. It is a message he wants to share with his consumers and the rest of the world. He leads the biodynamic industry with 1,000 hectares under vine, and he also has his hands in organics, sulphide-free wines, vegan wines and bee-friendly practices, and continues to expand the areas every year.
Bertrand likes to say that everything is connected. As the wine sector shifts from conventional to organic, biodynamic, or regenerative farming, the entire agricultural sector will need to follow suit. That’s why “be the change” is their message: To ask everyone to make changes in their lives to help this beautiful planet.
How does wine survive its current maladies? That is a simple question for Gérard, who eschews the philosophy of art de vivre, stating, “It is also the soul of the Languedoc. The gastronomy, the culture of the region, the arts, that means music, painting and sculpture. Over the decades, Château Hospitalet has become the centre of the Bertrand mission and activities, which is very important for us.”
Finally, Gérard is very sincere when he says, “You know, with a glass of wine, you start talking, and then you stop fighting. I mean, we need more wine in the world because we need to share the peace, the love and the harmony.”
There will be a convention centre full of wine people later this month, many of whom think like Gérard Bertrand and put their money where their mouths are, travelling the globe to ensure wine will be around to help civilize the world we live in for another 8,000 years. If you’re interested, you can take part and help “be the change,” too.
Weekend wine picks
Amaral Sauvignon Blanc 2024, Valle de Leyda, Valle de San Antonio, Chile
$21.99 I 87/100
UPC:
007804407001768
One of the top benefits of screwcap wines is that they age well, making this two-year-old Sauvignon Blanc from Chile a solid choice. Currently, you can pick up this label for $14.99, down from the regular price of $21.99. The Leyda Valley style is similar to New Zealand, with prominent notes of passion fruit, gooseberry, grapefruit and lemon grass on the nose. The palate features juicy, crisp dryness with a hint of smoked jalapeño and nettle — a ready-to-drink modern Sauvignon at a great price.
Solvero Chardonnay 2024, Oregon, United States
$24.65 I 91/100
UPC:
627987248487
The 2024 Solvero Chardonnay is a replacement wine from Oregon, specifically the Chehalem Mountains AVA, which winemaker Allison Moyes believes is ideally suited to barrel fermentation. It is 100 per cent barrel-fermented in mostly neutral oak, with 14 per cent in new Mercurey barrels, and batonnage was performed during partial malolactic fermentation. Ultimately, it was aged for 11 months in a barrel. The nose is fresh, with ripe red apple notes complemented by subtle leesy brioche and hazelnut aromas. The texture is round and juicy, featuring more ripe peach and citrus flavours. A fun wine you can enjoy now. Well done, and it’s priced realistically, too.
Giant Steps Chardonnay 2023, Yarra Valley, Victoria, Australia
$40.99 I 93/100
UPC:
9351105000107
The Giant Steps winemaking approach is deliberately non-interventional, from hand-picked, whole-bunch-pressed grapes to spontaneous ferments, using larger 500L French puncheons with only 10 per cent new oak. As excellent as last year was, ’23 may have even more energy. We love the mealy, oatmeal notes on the nose, the bright apple and nectarine fruit, and a saline citrus wash throughout, balanced by some toasted, nutty notes at the finish. Honestly, few New World Chardonnays can rival this wine. Dishes that need a squeeze of lemon will pair well here. On sale until the end of the month.
Il Grigio da San Felice Chianti Classico Riserva 2021, Tuscany, Italy
$30.99 I 92/100
UPC:
709067110096
Winemaker Leonardo Bellaccini, Siena-born and raised, refers to Il Grigio as the San Felice flagship wine based on its classic Chianti Classico characters and its seemingly innate complexity. The ’21, like its predecessors, is a selection of the best Sangiovese grapes from the San Felice Chianti Classico estate, vineyards that Bellaccini has been directly involved in restoring since 1994. There are inviting, earthy floral aromatics, accompanied by a much more intense mid-palate full of vibrant, red-fruit plums and tangy acidity. Cushy tannins and some minerality finish off this delicious bottle. On sale until the end of the month. Bolognese sauce.
Nk’Mip Cellars Talon 2022, Okanagan Valley, British Columbia, Canada
$29.99 I 91/100
UPC:
836909004265
Talon is a blend primarily of Syrah and Cabernet Sauvignon, with some Malbec and Cabernet Franc harvested from various blocks in the southern Okanagan. The attack is full-flavoured, with the palate offering notes of smoked meat, pepper, dark plums, dried spices and streaks of licorice. It’s young, and given the vintage, youthful tannins will be poking through a fresh finish that will need more time to soften. The winery recommends serving this wine with grilled lamb, grilled eggplant and barbecued pork.
Calendar and other items
• Cornell University reports winemakers around the world are championing “blouge” wine, an emerging style that blends both red and white grapes (blanc + rouge = blouge). It is hardly news to hardcore wine folks, but it is an approach that is helping growers and winemakers respond to shifting consumer tastes and the challenges posed by climate change. Cheryl Stanley, a senior lecturer in food and beverage management at Cornell, says: “The blouge style brings bright fresh fruit, bright acid and light texture. It’s a transition from ‘crushable reds,’ which are light-bodied red wines lower in tannin. It’s the White Zinfandel of today but without the residual sugar.”
• Northern Lights Estate Winery surpassed a significant milestone on Feb. 23 when it filled its 1,000,000th bottle of fruit wine. Given it has been just over 10 years since they opened, one million bottles is an impressive production number, and one that the Bell family is very proud to have reached. Today, the Prince George winery has become Canada’s largest fruit winery and the 27th-largest winery among B.C.’s 350-plus players. You can find many of their wines in private wine shops or order them directly online at
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B.C. wine of the week
Culmina Family Estate Hypothesis 2018, Golden Mile Bench, Okanagan Valley, British Columbia
$34.99 I 90/100
UPC:
827413001000
Hypothesis is a long-distance runner who, at just over six years old, is beginning to open up. The nose is a mix of cherry and leather. The palate is an earthy red and black fruit flavour with refreshing acidity, finishing with complex notes of cassis, licorice, spice and cedar. The finish is balanced, with fine-grained tannins and a silky texture, topped with a final note of minerality. The 2018 Hypothesis is a blend of 32 per cent Cabernet Franc, 31 per cent Cabernet Sauvignon, 25 per cent Merlot, 6.5 per cent Petit Verdot, and 5.5 per cent Malbec. On sale until the end of the month in 91 stores.
Value wine of the week
Delas Saint-Esprit Côtes du Rhône 2022, Rhône Valley, France
$24.99 I 87/100
UPC:
03359950361868
The vines are sustainably grown and the blend is mainly Grenache with a splash of Syrah, aged in concrete for 12 months. The colour, like the entry, is light, leading to a fresh nose of pepper and thyme combined with red fruits, licorice, grilled meat and garrigue scrubland. Overall, the wine is easy to sip but finishes with some sticky dry tannins. Ready to drink and best enjoyed with grilled meats on the barbecue.
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Source: vancouversun.com