Vancouver International Wine Festival 2026: What to try in the tasting room
The French are in the spotlight at the 47th Vancouver International Wine Festival, which takes place March 7-14 at Canada Place.
Geopolitical events has thrust France back near the top of the list of countries selling imported wine in B.C. It now sits second only to Italy. The French may not dominate the import market as they did in the 1980s and ’90s, but the backlash from U.S. tariff policies has all but eliminated American wines from the competition, encouraging the decidedly cool French producers to pay more attention to the Canadian market, especially west of Toronto. If there has ever been a moment for distributors and buyers to push for more French listings, now is that time.
Despite the current turmoil and the persistent rise of global competition, including a fast-rising B.C. scene, there is no denying that French wine still retains significant cachet, not to mention control over the most renowned addresses in the wine world, which have always attracted consumers. Names like Bordeaux, Burgundy, Champagne, the Rhône, Loire and the Languedoc have stood the test of time, even though other countries have used some form of these names, for better or worse, to describe their similar-styled, but lesser-known, wines. Terms like Burgundian-style, Bordeaux blend, Rhone-like, and even Champagne-like subtly keep French wine top of mind, even in places where it has limited market presence.
When you visit the tasting room, you will see a comparison of today’s France versus the rest of the world. It’s trendy and, frankly, accurate to say that B.C. wines have made great progress, but make no mistake: No one in the wine world is waiting for us to catch up, especially not the French. The real competition comes down to quality and style, each shaped by unique terroirs. The days when New World wines were typically richer, riper and more alcoholic than French wines are gone. And thanks to climate change, French wines are no longer only lean, fresh wines with refined tannins, crafted for the dinner table. You could say things are changing as rapidly as the weather.
In that spirit, you are encouraged to explore a range of New and Old World wines available in the International Tasting Room and compare the differences or similarities for yourself. Here are some classic matchups to explore. For those of you unable to attend the festival, I have included an Old World/New World tasting with wines you can buy at local stores to try at home with food.
Chardonnay
Chardonnay is an ideal choice for exploring both New World and Old World styles. Over the past decade, there’s been a significant shift in how New World Chardonnay is produced. Top vines are now planted in the coolest, most marginal vineyard sites, where lower temperatures boost acidity and fruit concentration well before the grapes reach the winery. The result is richer fruit flavours and a more lively, mouth-watering acidity. Countries like Canada, New Zealand, Italy, Australia and South Africa are rising as new contenders to France’s dominance. Even within France, the renowned slopes of the Côte d’Or face increased competition from regions such as Chablis, Mâcon, the Côte Chalonnaise and, more recently, Limoux and the Jura. Lobster, tuna, oysters and Caesar salad are often considered more typical of New World dishes. In contrast, the French tend to pair their Chardonnay with wild salmon, turbot, sole, oysters, white bean purée and onion tarts.
New World Pick:
Penfolds Bin 311 2022 Chardonnay, Australia ($49.99)
Old World Pick:
Louis Latour Macon-Lugny Les Genièvries 2023, Burgundy, France ($40.99)
Sauvignon Blanc
Outside France, Sauvignon Blanc is often described as tasting similar to Sancerre or Pouilly-Fumé. However, many consumers are unaware that the fresh, mineral and crisp flavours of Loire-grown Sancerre, Pouilly Fumé and Touraine come from a single grape: Sauvignon Blanc. According to French appellation law, producers emphasize the origin (such as Sancerre or Touraine in the Loire) rather than the grape variety. In the New World, top Sauvignon Blanc wines mimic the Loire style, featuring smoky, mineral, pear and green apple flavours, with a leaner structure and higher acidity. Look for labels from Casablanca, Leyda and Limari in Chile; Marlborough in New Zealand; Constantia/Coastal Region of South Africa; and here in Canada, B.C.’s Similkameen Valley. Food helps bring these styles closer together. Clams, mussels, goat’s cheese, pasta and chicken salads typically accompany New World styles, while chèvre, fish in sorrel sauce, onion tarts and oysters are the equivalents in French cuisine.
New World Pick:
Dog Point Vineyard Sauvignon Blanc 2023, Marlborough, New Zealand ($39.99)
Old World Pick:
J. de Villebois Menetou Salon 2023, Loire Valley France ($41.99)
Pinot Noir
Does anyone do it better than the French and, more specifically, the vignerons of Burgundy? When the French get it right, their Pinot can be transformative. The challenge for consumers is the flood of French producers sharing a limited number of appellations. But if Burgundy is the heart of Pinot Noir production, the race to catch up is happening worldwide. Central Otago, Martinborough, Canterbury, Nelson and Marlborough lead New Zealand’s effort. Tasmania and the Yarra Valley in Australia, along with Leyda and Casablanca in Chile, also compete. And, as is well known locally, Okanagan Falls, Naramata Bench, Summerland, West and East Kelowna, Lake Country, Niagara and Prince Edward County in Ontario are now contenders. In France, they pair Pinot Noir with rabbit, Maigre de canard, pheasant and coq au vin. Closer to home, Pinot with quail, duck, turkey, sausages and wild local mushrooms can be quite delicious.
New World Pick:
Unsworth Vineyard 2o23 Pinot Noir, Cowichan Valley, British Columbia, Canada ($35)
Old World Pick:
Louis Jadot Pinot Noir 2022, Bourgogne, France ($39.99)
Syrah/Shiraz
Old World Syrah and New World Shiraz are derived from the same grape, but each has its own accent. In the Old World — think the northern Rhône — Syrah is influenced by cooler climates, though it is also warming and by traditional methods and French restraint. These wines are usually medium-bodied, savoury and structured, showcasing black pepper, olive, smoked meat, violets and firm acidity with moderate alcohol. The oak is almost always French and subtle, allowing the sites, whether in St Joseph, Hermitage, or various southern Rhône appellations, to express their character fully. New World Shiraz, particularly from Australia, South Africa and California, reflects warmer climates and a more liberal approach in the cellar. These wines tend to be richer, riper in fruit and often higher in alcohol. They feature flavours of blackberry jam, plum, chocolate and spice, with more prominent oak and higher alcohol. In summary, Syrah emphasizes elegance and terroir; Shiraz leans toward power, generosity, and immediate appeal for many drinkers. Canadian Syrah could be an exception, as it aligns closely with the Old World style both in taste and presentation.
New World Pick:
Clos du Soleil 2022 Winemaker’s Series Syrah, Similkameen Valley, British Columbia, Canada ($40)
Old World Pick:
M. Chapoutier Crozes-Hermitage Les Meysonniers Rouge Rhone Valley ($29)
Inside the International Tasting Room: Wines to try
Everyone should have a plan of attack before arriving at the International Tasting Room, regardless of their level of knowledge or interest in wine. With several hundred wines to taste, choosing themes can be a useful way of navigating the room. After reviewing the extensive list of tasting-room wines, we have some themes and recommendations for spending three hours tasting and spitting your way around the room. Everything you taste will be available for ticket holders to purchase at the on-site wine store and can be shipped to the nearest government store to your home. Each producer’s position in the room is organized alphabetically within its country space. See you inside the room.
Terroir x 10:
France is the birthplace of terroir. The idea that the soil grapes grow in, along with the mesoclimate and the people, gives wine a DNA of place that is no longer just a concept. Of course, the truth is, every vineyard has terroir and every wine grower is tasked with expressing their wine’s sense of place, no matter where they live in the world, but we can also say few, if any, do it better than the French. Given the role terroir plays in French wine, we highlight some of the terroir-driven (times ten) wines you can find in the tasting room.
• A. Brumont Château Montus Madiran 2018, South West France ($46)
• (Andrew Peller Imports) Chartron et Trébuchet Pouilly-Fuissé 2023, Bourgogne, France ($50)
• (Antoine Moueix) Château Capet-Guillier Saint-Émilion Grand Cru 2019, Bordeaux, France ($57.99)
• Champagne Duval-Leroy, Brut Premier Cru NV, Champagne, France ($95)
• Château de Nages, Halos de Jupiter Châteauneuf-du-Pape 2021, Rhône, France ($89)
• Château Haut-Carles 2022. Fronsac, Bordeaux, France ($60)
• Domaine Boutinot, Les Coteaux Schisteaux Séguéret Côtes du Rhône Villages 2021, Rhône, France ($39)
• Domaine Laroche, Grand Cru Chablis Les Blanchots 2022, Bourgogne, France ($124)
• Fonjoya Delta, Tèrra Libra 2020, Terrasses du Larzac, Languedoc et Roussillon, France ($47)
• Gabriel Meffre, Laurus Vacqueyras Red 2020, Rhône, France ($35)
• Georges Duboeuf, Domaine des Quatre Vents Fleurie 2023, Bourgogne, France ($31)
• Gérard Bertrand Le Viala Minervois-La Livinière 2022, Languedoc-Roussillon, France ($90)
• M. Chapoutier, Hermitage Blanc Chante-Alouette 2021 Rhône, France ($93)
• Pfaff, Gewürztraminer Grand Cru Steinert 2018, Alsace, France ($35)
The New World of Chardonnay
We like to think of the latest in Chardonnay as neither Old World nor New World. It’s Next World. The style notes are fresh, precise, authentic, bright, electric, mineral and delicious. Top-tier Chardonnay comes from all parts of the globe, but this week you only need to visit the festival tasting room to enjoy some of the most fascinating options. Whole-cluster pressed, barrel-fermented, hand-stirred, aged in oak, concrete eggs, cement vats, ceramic vats, amphorae, stainless steel, unfined, never filtered, no sulphur, malo, no malo — take your pick.
• Chivite, Colección 125 Chardonnay 2021, Navarra, Spain ($85)
• Emiliana Organic Vineyards, Maycas Del Limari Chardonnay 2022. Limari Valley, Chile ($27)
• Fort Berens Estate Winery, White Gold Chardonnay Reserve, Lillooet, B.C. ($37)
• Maison Louis Jadot, Chardonnay Couvent des Jacobins 2023, Bourgogne, France ($36)
• Phantom Creek Estates, Chardonnay 2023, Okanagan Valley, B.C. ($40)
• Quails’ Gate, Stewart Family Reserve Chardonnay 2023, Okanagan Valley, B.C. ($50)
• Rombauer Vineyards, Carneros Chardonnay 2024, Napa Valley, California, U.S.A. ($70)
• Tinhorn Creek Vineyards, Chardonnay 2024, Golden Mile Bench, B.C. ($25)
• Trentadue, La Storia Chardonnay 2023, Sonoma County, California, U.S.A. ($50)
• Villa Maria, Taylors Pass Chardonnay 2022, Marlborough, New Zealand ($43)
O Canada, elbows up
Picking the best local wines is more challenging due to the dramatic improvements in quality across the province. Trump tariffs have given all Canadians a new perspective on what we can achieve and where we can go when we set our minds to being the best. In today’s wine world, climate change, carbon footprints, organics, sustainability, ethics and more are all factors that point consumers toward buying local. Here is a shortlist of wines in the room that should excite you about supporting the home team.
• 8th Generation Vineyard, Pinot Meunier Rosé 2025, Okanagan Valley, B.C. ($28)
• Black Hills Estate Winery, Sauvignon Blanc 2024, Okanagan Valley, B.C. ($35)
• Burrowing Owl Estate Winery, Syrah 2022, Okanagan Valley, B.C. ($43)
• Da Silva Vineyards, Pinot Noir 2022, Naramata Bench, B.C. ($45)
• Da Silva Vineyards, Fumé Blanc 2022, Naramata Bench, B.C. ($34)
• Fort Berens Estate Winery, Classic Riesling 2024, Lillooet, B.C. ($24)
• Hester Creek Estate Winery, Undici 2022, Golden Mile Bench, B.C. ($59.99)
• Hester Creek Estate Winery, Cabernet Franc 2022, Golden Mile Bench, B.C. ($30)
• Moraine Estate, Pinot Noir 2023, Naramata Bench, B.C. ($33)
• Sage Hayward Vineyards, Pinot Noir 2023, Gulf Islands, B.C. ($40)
• Summerhill Pyramid Winery, Cipes Traditional Cuvée 2004 South Kelowna Slopes, B.C. ($250)
• Tightrope Winery, Syrah 2022, Naramata Bench, B.C. ($43)
• Unsworth Vineyards, Pinot Gris, Cowichan Valley, B.C. ($27)
Taste something different
You can go through life drinking only Cabernet Sauvignon and Chardonnay, but what’s the fun in that? There’s nothing like discovering new wines, new flavours and new experiences. Why not get off the well-worn path and seek out something different? Anything but the familiar should be the mantra.
• 8th Generation Vineyard, Pinot Meunier Rosé 2025, Okanagan Valley, B.C. ($28)
• Azienda Agricola Bocale di Valentini, Montefalco Sagrantino Ennio 2019, Umbria, Italy ($96)
• Barbanera Vini, Toscana Bianco Sangiovese 2024, Tuscany, Italy ($21)
• Bodega Trivento, Reserve White Malbec 2025 Mendoza, Argentina ($18)
• Chartron et Trébuchet Crémant Brut Blanc 2023, Bourgogne, France ($27)
• Church & State Wines, Marsanne 2020, Okanagan Valley, B.C. ($23)
• (Ethica Wines) Ca’ Dei Fratti Lugana 2023, Lombardia, Italy ($33)
• Gabriel Meffre St Vincent White 2023, Rhône Valley ($19)
• Kiridzija Winery, Tajano Plavac Mali 2020, Dalmatia, Croatia ($45)
• Laberinto Wines, Arcillas País 2023, Maule Valley, Chile ($37)
Beautiful blends
When it comes to grapes, many claim blended wines can reach the ultimate level of sophistication in part because the whole is better than the sum of the parts. Here’s a look at some of the most intriguing masterful blends in the room.
• (AdVini) Château Gassier, La Pas du Moine 2024 Côtes de Provence, France ($33)
• Black Hills Estate Winery, Bona Fide 2024, Okanagan Valley, B.C. ($39)
• Burrowing Owl Estate Winery, Meritage 2021, Okanagan Valley, B.C. ($56)
• Coronica Winery, Gran Teran 2018, Istria, Croatia ($103)
• Domaine Boutinot, La Côte Sauvage Cairanne 2022, Rhône, France ($40)
• Emiliana Organic Vineyards, Coyam Organic Red 2021, Colchagua Valley, Chile ($30)
• Hester Creek Undici 2022, Golden Mile bench, Okanagan Valley, B.C. ($65)
• Jason Parkes Customs, Screaming Frenzy – Meritage 2019, Okanagan Valley, B.C. ($30)
• La Fleur Solitaire Côtes du Rhône Blanc 2024 542316 ($25.99)
• Laberinto Wines, Trumao Norte 2020, Maule Valley, Chile ($64)
• Les Coteaux Côtes du Rhône Villages 2023 ($24.99)
• Mission Hill Family Estate, Compendium Red 2021, Okanagan Valley, B.C. ($91)
• Viña San Pedro, Sideral 2020, Cachapoal Valley, Chile ($40)
• Phantom Creek Estates Becker Vineyard Cuvée 2020, Okanagan Valley, B.C. ($68)
Who brought their best stuff to the festival
It’s hard to believe you would travel so far and spend so much money and not pour your best wines, but not everyone does. We leave the machinations of which wines get poured to the marketers and the folks who make the wine and own the wineries. What we can do is suggest that, if you are going to spend time at any booths, here is a shortlist of those who chose to bring their very best to Vancouver. Expect long lineups.
• Azienda Agricola Bocale di Valentini, Italy — Trebbiano Spoletino Spoleto 2024, Umbria Italy ($40)
• Black Hills Estate Winery — Nota Bene 2023, Okanagan Valley, B.C. ($70)
• Champagne Duval-Leroy — Brut Cuvée Organic NV, Champagne, France ($73)
• Domaine Fourrey — Chablis 1er Côte de Lechet Cru Heritage l’Ancestrale 2023, Bourgogne France ($65)
• (Inland Trading Co) By Farr RP Pinot 2022, Geelong, Victoria, Australia ($130)
• Tenute RaDe, Piedmont, Italy — Alta Langa Riserva 2015, Piedmont, Italy ($70)
• Chivite — Colección 125 Vino de Guarda, Navarra, Spain 2019 ($63)
• Summerhill Pyramid Winery — Cipes Gabriel Blanc de Blanc Zero Dosage 2017, Okanagan Valley, B.C. ($230)
• South Kelowna Slopes, B.C. ($230)
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Source: vancouversun.com