Eat Streets: Vancouver’s West End dining comes with a view

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Exploring the restaurants that bring Metro Vancouver neighbourhoods to life.

Michele Ley is settled into a booth at the Sylvia Restaurant and Lounge in Vancouver’s West End. Through the picture window, the waters of English Bay are blue and hypnotic. It almost doesn’t matter what one orders off the menu. The real meal is the view, the old-school decor and the free parking.

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Although not on Denman street, the Sylvia is arguably the most iconic, long-standing restaurant in the neighbourhood, an anchor for visitors, a favourite among locals.

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Ley, a meditation teacher, has lived in Vancouver’s West End since 1995. She loves this eclectic, high-density neighbourhood, with its leafy walkable streets, easy access to Stanley Park and the Pacific Ocean.

The West End stretches from English Bay, northwest to Stanley Park, and Burrard and Georgia streets to the southeast and northeast, with Denman Street connecting the park to the beach.

A stroll on Denman is a casual dining paradise clustered with quick eats and takeout to enjoy on picnic blankets, beach towels or park benches, and popular mid-range dine-in options.

Ley has a favourite at the Sylvia: the fish and chips. The historic ivy-covered structure that was once an apartment building, and later became a hotel, has long anchored the West End, but it’s the people who work here Ley appreciates as much as the view.

Ley knows the staff, how long they’ve worked here (some for decades), whether they have kids, their quirks and their dreams.

People matter to Ley. They make a neighbourhood feel like home, even this one that has 45,000 residents, but balloons in population with tourists each year.

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Ley particularly enjoys Falafal King at 1110 Denman, who she says has the best shawarma in the West End. A wrap is around $10, and a shawarma plate is under $15. She is a loyal customer, and calls them “exemplar” for their survival in what have been tough times for restaurants. She also loves Peaked Pies, especially their savoury Aussie meat pies that come with optional add-ons like mushy peas and gravy, and lauds their customer service.

Olympia Restaurant at 998 Denman is Ley’s recommendation for pizza, but they also have classics like Greek salad, souvlaki and baked spaghetti. The restaurant made global headlines in the run up to the 2010 Olympics when the Olympic Organizing Committee threatened owner Mosi Alvand with legal action if they didn’t remove the Olympic rings that had long been part of the establishment’s signage, or shut down entirely.

Local residents united. Ley recalls the episode as a classic David and Goliath story, amusing at first, but then not.

“People in the West End feel protective of each other,” Ley explained. Thousands signed a petition on behalf of Olympia, and a compromise was reached.

In addition to fierce loyalty, the West End also has a proud history as the seat of the city’s LGBTQ+ community, and about 30 per cent of its households include at least one senior.

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That inclusivity makes Pamela Swanson happy. The retired health administrator has lived in one of the neighbourhood’s leasehold properties since 1995.

“The area is one of the last in the city that feels like a small town, even if the city is trying to kill it with high rises,” she says, as she steps into Tre Viet Banh Mi at 1114 Denman for lunch.

What makes it so special? “The area is filled with people that smile, that stop and talk, and that stop and help.”

While some places, like Falafal King and Olympia Restaurant, have deep roots, there is a high turnover among restaurants on Denman. A large number of Persian restaurants have opened in recent years, reflecting changing demographics, including Chef Ron Restaurant + Bar at 1037 Denman, which opened in 2022, and Miraas Persian Restaurant & Bar which replaced the short-lived Jungle Room in the location once held by the beloved pub, the Dover Arms, after it closed in 2017.

At the corner of Denman and Nelson, flight attendants Frank Mancini and Harry Chahal are taking in some sun while working off the jet lag. Mancini stays in the West End with friends during layovers, and Chahal has moved back after a stint in Toronto.

“I missed the neighbourhood,” he explains. “It’s a quiet little town in a big city. Once people have lived here, they don’t move away.”

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Both enjoy the upscale casual fare at nearby Nook West End,Kingyo Izakaya as well as España for tapas, daily paella, patatas bravas, (fried potatoes in spicy tomato sauce with aioli), chicharrones (crispy fried pork belly), and cocktails. Kintaro Ramen at 788 Denman is another favourite.

Ley also frequents Ukrainian Village at 815 Denman. The menu includes hearty, affordable and authentic home cooking, including favourites like Borscht, Chicken Kiev, perogies, cabbage rolls and her favourite, the schnitzel. Mains start at $17.95.

 Ley also recommends Vonn’s at 1184 Denman for its burgers. The menu features a five-ounce smash burger for $17, and a smash-it-twice double patty for $19, as well as a popular rib-eye cheesesteak, halloumi and chicken burgers.

Chahal also recommends the Bayside Lounge, at nearby 1755 Davie. The retro bar overlooking the water is a longstanding destination for brunch or cocktails like bourbon sours and old-fashioneds while watching the sunset.

To soak up the excesses after a night of cocktails, local residents and tourists rely on family-owned all-day breakfast joint, The Basic (formerly Joe’s Grill) at 948 Denman.

K.P. Vorasarn runs the place, serves tables, and cooks the food, and does whatever is needed. Tourists help during the summer, but it’s locals, some of whom come several days a week, that make it feel like family said Vorasarn.

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The Basic is known for its affordable all-day breakfast, with fresh home fries, done on the grill until crispy. “Not frozen, not packaged, we do them fresh every day,” said Vorasarn.

Like the rest of the West End, once you get a taste of it, you might never leave.

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Eat Streets: What to know about this area of the West End

Location: Denman Street, between Davie and Robson streets.

Number of restaurants and food options: 56.

What are the options for parking? City of Vancouver parking metres. Some two-hour free parking on Davie near Cardero if you don’t mind walking.

What are Metro Vancouver’s Eat Streets?

This article is part one of a series highlighting Metro Vancouver’s must-visit Eat Streets. With the goal of celebrating — and maybe even introducing you to — stretches of community around the region that have a notable concentration of local food businesses. Know of a great Eat Street in your community? Let us know where. Email us at artslife@vancouversun.com.

Read about more of Metro Vancouver’s Eat Streets:

• Eat Streets: A United Nations of cuisine on Vancouver’s Victoria Drive
• Eat Streets: Langley City’s one-way a hub of local food
• Eat Streets: Delta and Surrey unite over food on this stretch of Scott Road
• Eat Streets: Comfort food served Hong Kong-style at Richmond’s Empire Centre
• Eat Streets: There’s now a world of flavours on Vancouver’s Commercial Drive
• Eat Streets: North Vancouver’s Lower Lonsdale reinvented as a foodie destination
• Eat Streets: Where hippies used to gather on West 4th Avenue, foodies now flock for the old and the new
• Eat Streets: New Westminster gets fresh life on Columbia Street (and in a SkyTrain station)
• Eat Streets: Vancouver’s Yaletown a place to eat, drink, and ‘to see and be seen’
• Eat Streets: The ever-evolving waterfront food scene on White Rock’s Marine Drive
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• Eat Streets: Kerrisdale transforms from typical British fare to a world of delicious new flavours
• Eat Streets: Abbotsford’s old town an epicentre of quirky cafés
• Eat Streets: Vancouver’s Main Street remains valiantly local, international and eclectic
• Eat Streets: The unexpected culinary delights of Vancouver’s Joyce Collingwood
• Eat Streets: Forget trendy — Vancouver’s South Fraser is ‘where you come for authentic’
• Eat Streets: 90+ food spots in North Vancouver’s Central Lonsdale district
• Eat Streets: Everything is on the menu in Steveston but seafood is still the specialty

Bookmark THIS PAGE to read the latest instalment every Wednesday.

Then and now: Vancouver’s West End

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