B.C.’s Pinot Gris wines have evolved. Here are 5 bottles to try.

The shift is hardly rocket science, but a more deliberate decision by some winemakers to pick earlier, lean into acidity, and experiment with texture, namely increased lees work, partial skin contact, and even the occasional concrete ferment. The result is a new generation of Gris that is tighter, more linear, and focused on precision, with more structured, almost savoury versions. That makes them far more interesting food wines that are beginning to endear the variety to restaurant buyers, thus increasing its image among consumers as a quality choice.