A sense of adventure is required to escape the dross of everyday wine

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Anyone moving about the world over the holiday season can recant travel travails, but if you’re looking for sympathy, forget it.

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Still, none put it more succinctly than a chance meeting with an aged traveller I met on the pathway to my vacation rental after a 14-hour travel day of airports, flight delays, car rental lineups and hunting for basic groceries that were all out of stock.

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She had asked politely if I had just arrived. My response was yes, and before I could say another word, she blurted out: “Everybody has a story,” and turned away and walked into her unit. I can’t get that line out of my head.

So, today, I got thinking about the global wine business and how it can move at a glacial pace. Sure, you can point to screw caps, bag-in-the-box wines, concrete egg fermenters, lighter glass bottles and even sustainability as harbingers of change.

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Still, when it comes to what consumers buy, many remain faithful to Chardonnay and Cabernet Sauvignon, even if hundreds of other grapes have a story waiting to be discovered.

Curiosity may have killed the cat, but it’s the first prerequisite for any wine-drinker interested in expanding their palate. The question is, where do you go from here?

The good news is that your choices are limitless. You only need to move a metre or two off of the beaten track to discover the richness of the wine. It may also provide relief from the relentless gouging going on in the mainstream market.

Remember, the curiosity mentioned above and a sense of adventure are all that is required to escape the dross of everyday wine.

Spain’s Albariño grape is a great place to start your new wine quest. It grows mainly in the Rías Baixas, DO of Spain, and it’s also found in the Vinho Verde region of Portugal, where it can take the name Alvarinho. It will appeal to drinkers seeking light, clean, fresh white wine with bright acidity and floral, aromatic fruit characters.

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In B.C., your case study can include Pazo das Bruxas Albarino 2019, Rueda, Spain, $34, or Terravista Albarino 2021, Naramata Bench, Okanagan Valley, $27.

Global interest in cool, coastal, delicious Sauvignon Blanc makes me want to turn the spotlight on another Sauvignon Blanc grown in the French appellation of Sancerre.

In France, the grape variety is mostly unspoken. Sancerre’s Sauvignon is a study in chalk, limestone and flint. Two to look for include Domaine Vacheron 2020 Sancerre, $47.99, or the Chateau Sancerre, $35.99.

Red wine drinkers have much room to manoeuvre. Sicily’s néro d’Avola may be in your future if you love red wine and barbecuing. Néro is one of Italy’s most important indigenous varieties. Imagine sipping a wine made from grapes that only grow in a small-demarcated region that isn’t duplicated anywhere else in the world.

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Today, the earthy, spicy, supple red is a rising southern Italian star. Our picks: Cusumano Néro d’Avola $18.99 and Duca di Salapuruta Néro d’Avola $17.99.

The ancient and indigenous Xynomavro is one of the finest red grapes of Greece, and it grows best in Naoussa in the Macedonia area. Always earthy and peppery with black cherry, licorice and smoky, meaty notes. Its style is Euro-lean with a dry, firm palate, all with a modicum of suppleness. Locally look for the Boutari Naoussa for $15 and serve it with lamb.

Closer to home, a Riesling cross labelled Ehrenfelser comes with just enough sweetness to subdue any heat effectively. It’s the perfect match for an Indian curry or spicy Sichuan dish. Two B.C. picks sold in B.C. Liquor Stores are the Summerhill Ehrenfelser, $19.99 and the Nk’Mip Dreamcatcher, $26.99.

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If you haven’t guessed, all of today’s wines have a story:

Weekend wine picks

Pazo das Bruxas Albarino 2019, Rueda, Castilla-Leon, Spain

$34.99 I 89/100

UPC: 8410113007100

The Pazo das Bruxas albariño opens with a medium yellow colour and a symphony of aromas led by a mix of lemon-lime, green apple and lemon grass. More fresh fruit is on the palate, balanced by a bitter underscore and a racy mineral finish. It’s an intense version of Albariño.

The Pazo das Bruxas stands for the folklore and nature of Galicia. A long time ago, Galician witches who lived in old country houses (Pazos) connected with nature through their dances and spells, hoping to influence the harvest for good.

Terravista Albariño 2021, Naramata Bench, Okanagan Valley

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$27 I 90/100

UPC: 627843135302

Traditionally, this wine is brisk with what I would describe as electric yellow fruits. It’s entirely estate fruit from Lone Hand Ranch Vineyard in Year 8. The Naramata version has more lime and less nectarine, with more floral, stony, mineral and citrus on the mid-palate. Clean and tight, the finish calls for food, and the choice is almost limitless.

The citrus salinity means you could serve it as a squeeze of lemon on your fish dish or pair it up with a creamy risotto. Impressive and ready to drink.

Domaine Vacheron Sancerre 2020, Sancerre, Upper Loire, Loire, France

$47.99 I 91/100

UPC: 3458965723910

Domaine Vacheron Sancerre is a biodynamic Sauvignon Blanc grown on the 47-hectare family estate. It’s all picked by hand into small 20 kilogram boxes and fermented in stainless tanks.

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The nose is an intoxicating mix of white and yellow flowers. The palate is light and lively, with green fruit, mineral, chalky notes and a fine thread of complexing lees. This is a big-time winner with aging possibilities, long, electric and persistent.

Perfect for simple seafood dishes.

Cusumano Nero d’Avola 2020, Sicily

$18.99 I 88/100

UPC: 8028262000141

The Cusumano Nero d’Avola has been around for a while, and the attention to detail leads to an intriguing modern style.

The Nero is densely planted, with over 5,000 plants per hectare, yielding an almost modest 60 hectolitres per hectare.

The fermentation is done in stainless steel, and the fruit sees no oak over its five months of aging on its lees. Instead, look for a peppery, black raspberry affair with a savoury undercarriage that finishes lean and dry with a touch of cardamom and licorice.

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A pasta red for sure, but grilled ribs would be a good match too — the price is a bonus.

La Remise de la Mordorée Rouge Sans Sulfites 2021, Southern Rhone, Rhone Valley, France

$32.99 I 91/100

UPC: 795898005670

A carbon copy of last year, if not better, it’s the best Vin de France I have ever tasted, and it’s made with no added sulphites.

It comes from a 16-year-old vineyard, and the blend is hand-harvested, 50/50, marselan/Grenache (Demeter certified biodynamic).

The vinification is simple: they destem the fruit, crush it, and ferment and macerate it for 20 days.

The palate is soft and silky with intense, pure black cherry. There is a minimal amount of tannin with a peppery finish. Food-friendly.

Fanny Bay Oysters Bar Chef Tommy Shorthouse calls scallops and pork belly a “classic” pairing. A multi-day affair to prepare, the talented chef assures the advance work will be worth it in the end.

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“This recipe does take some preparation time for the pork belly, but its melt-in-your-mouth flavour will certainly be worth all the work,” he says.

Winter Scallops with Pork Belly

Cured Pork Belly

2 lb (907 g) pork belly

1 cup (250 mL) white sugar

2 cups (500 mL) salt

1/2 tsp (2.5 mL) black pepper

2 tsp (10 mL) Chinese 5-Spice powder

Curing the pork belly should begin three days before desired serving date. Coat the pork belly thoroughly in the mixture and store in an airtight container overnight in the fridge. The next day, remove the pork belly and slow-roast it in the oven at 300 F for 2 hours on a wire rack with a baking sheet underneath it to catch the drippings.

After roasting, let it cool to room temperature and transfer it to a backing pan and use another tray or heavy plate to put some weighted pressure on it overnight in the fridge. On the third day, remove it from the fridge and cut to your desired thickness for serving. I cut mine into 1/3-of-an-inch-thick for perfect scallop-to-pork-belly ratio. Place your cut pieces in a non-stick pan with a small amount of oil to sear each side.

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Vegetables

4 medium carrots, peeled

1 head cauliflower, cut down to florets

Olive oil, to taste

Salt and pepper, to taste

Cut and roast the carrots and cauliflower with a little bit of oil, salt and pepper at 425 F for 15 minutes.

Apple Chutney

2 apples, peeled and diced

1 tbsp (15 mL) apple cider vinegar

1/2 (125 mL) apple juice

1 tbsp (15 mL) sugar

1 tbsp (15 mL) honey

1 piece star anise

Pinch of ground clove

Pinch of cinnamon

1/2 tbsp (7.5 mL) cornstarch

Adding all ingredients except cornstarch to a pot over medium heat and bring to a simmer. Cook it for 10 minutes before adding cornstarch and mixing it thoroughly to thicken. Cook for another 5 minutes and then let cool.

Scallops

24 scallops

1 tbsp (15 mL) butter

Last but not least, using a small dab of butter in a hot pan sear your scallops on both sides until they get that lovely golden touch to them.

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Serve a ration of scallop to one piece of pork with your roasted veggies and chutney on the side.

Serves 4 to 6.

Recipe match

Winter scallops with pork belly is a rich and decadent dish that could use a drizzle of citrus and ripe crunchy fruit to balance the flavours; hence Riesling is our advice this week:

Selbach Riesling Fish Label, Mosel, Germany, $20.99

Red apple, not green, with a dusting of sweetness to balance off the refreshing acidity that will energize this deliciously rich meal.

Karp-Schreiber My Karp Off-Dry Riesling 2020, Mosel, Germany, $20.99

An off-dry Riesling where honey and sweet limes lead a lemon-sprayed peach will be all you need to take on the scallops, pork and vegetables.

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