Anthony Gismondi: 10 picks for those who take their wine seriously

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It’s been a year of despair for wine. Pricing and egos remain the elephants in the room as producers, retailers, and consumers all circle each other, searching for solutions to short crops, high prices and low profits. Challenging weather constantly affects crops worldwide, and consumers searching for savings and drinking something different have changed their purchasing habits, negatively impacting sales.

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But real wine drinkers persevere, and just in time for the season, we look at wines that come from somewhere that someone makes and cares for and, most importantly, has a story to tell. We have already explored bargain picks and gifts suited to various wine drinkers. This week, we focus on collectors, aficionados, and people who take their wine seriously.

We have combed the marketplace for 10 wines that overdeliver for their price and could be considered holiday gifts. We have also double-checked availability and pricing to ensure you can find these wines in B.C. liquor stores, which offer extensive wine selections.

On the first day of Christmas we begin with a stellar white wine produced locally. The Mission Hill 2022 Perpetua Chardonnay, $66.99, has improved incrementally over the last two decades and is now among the best Chardonnays made in the country.

Sauvignon Blanc is gaining in popularity, especially at the high end. We recommend the Dog Point Vineyard 2022 Sauvignon Blanc, Marlborough, New Zealand, $39.99. The nose is about stony minerality with crisp lemon citrus notes. It’s uber-fresh and food-friendly, and it’s delicious with shellfish.

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Riesling sales remain stable if underappreciated in B.C. We are big fans of the Quails’ Gate Clone 49 Riesling, $34.99. Another mineral, stony nose, previews a juicy lime palate pricked with green apples, flint, oyster liqueur, and a perfectly balanced dry finish. Serve with anything.

Everybody loves to drink Champagne, and while prices are crazy, we can recommend a new label: Champagne Pol Roger N/V Pure Extra Brut, $114.99. This undosed elegant Champagne features Pinot Noir, Pinot Meunier, and Chardonnay blended in equal proportions. It is ready to celebrate.

Pinot Noir is on everyone’s list, but the new value, if any, is in the New World. Look no further than the 2024 WineAlign National Wine Awards of Canada Winery of the Year for the Spearhead Okanagan Valley Pinot Noir $36 for a tasty mass of plums and cherries with a lick of spice.

Barolo is having a moment, and while prices are climbing, you can still find some value in what you can cellar for decades if need be. There are several local labels in the market, but if you have to pick one, go with the Giovanni Rosso Serralunga Barolo for $72.99 for its harmony, power, and elegance.

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Need a gift that won’t break the bank but says you know wine? Enter Boutinot La Côte Sauvage 2019 Cairanne, Côtes du Rhône Villages, Rhone Valley, France $39.99. Expect a stunning bottle of Rhône red with elegance, persistence, ripe fruit and drinkability. Buy one for yourself.

Clos du Soleil Winemaker’s Series Syrah $39 is a serious, savoury, local Syrah from its grilled meats, blackberry and cracked peppercorn palate to its purple florals and mineral finish.

If you want a rich Cabernet Sauvignon with some restraint, we suggest S by Ray Signorello, Napa Valley, California $125. S is a modern, crowd-pleasing, affordable cabernet with class. As big as it sounds and tastes, there is an inviting elegance that is more Bordelais than Napa.

You can buy or gift an elegant introduction to Port wines from a top-notch producer in the five perfect 200-ml size bottles. Graham’s Finest Port Pack includes Fine White Port, Six Grapes, Late Bottle Vintage, 10-Year-Old Tawny and 20-Year-Old Tawny. Just add a fire and some toasted nuts.

Weekend wine picks

Le Paradou Accent and Nuances Grenache 2022, France

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$20 I 88/100

UPC: 3760149590936

The last time we reviewed this wine was a decade ago, and we enjoyed it thoroughly. It presents equally well 10 years later, beginning with a juicy, spicy raspberry and red currant vibe with a long, warm palate. The tannins are silky, and the flavour intensity reflects the 75-year-old vines that feed this wine. This old vine Grenache spends six months in concrete before bottling. It’s a pure expression of the grape that shouts black raspberries and pepper with a lick of Garrigue to complex the finish. It’s another backup of the truck. It is sold at Everything Wine.

Quails’ Gate Field and Flight Pinot Noir 2023, U.S.

$22 I 88/100

UPC: 778856023206

Field and Flight is a series of wines Kelowna-based Quails’ Gate makes with fruit from outside the country to cope with the massive winter damage it suffered in early 2024. The Pinot Noir comes out of Oregon with an earthy, savoury undercurrent, which is a great start. The fruit is slightly muted, but the textures are smooth and round, and the finish is long enough to let the wine stretch its legs. Look for red fruits and medium acidity with a touch of spice. It will sell for $22-$26  in select private wine shops, likely in the U.S./Oregon section.

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Clos du Soleil Winemaker’s Series Syrah 2021, Similkameen Valley, B.C.

$38.99 I 91/100

UPC: 857088000848

B.C.’s Similkameen Valley has been a revelation for Syrah drinkers. At Clos du Soleil, winemaker Michael Clark thinks the daily winds and poor, stony soils are a blessing for Syrah, which loves the daytime heat and, even more, the cool nights. Savoury sagebrush, pencil, black fruits, and white pepper with chalky mineral notes flood your palate, and this wine is only waking up. It can now be consumed with barbecued ribs or stored in a cellar for five to seven years.

Fontanafredda Barolo Serralunga D’Alba 2019, Serralunga, Cuneo, Piedmont, Italy

$49.99 I 91/100

UPC: 8000174100027

From a stellar vintage in 2019, this is a label you can depend on, and given the year, it is one that will keep easily for 10 to 15 years. The Serralunga label first appeared in 1988, celebrating the terroir of Serralunga and its ability to produce elegant wines. The nose is a classic red plum fruit affair streaked with leather, earth and truffle notes. Freshness and finesse mark a wine that the sommelier and collectors mostly underrate because production is significant. Still, it meets the grade for affordable, high-quality Barolo. Meat and cheese are the traditional matches, but boeuf bourguignon, Nasi Goreng, and smoked meats would all work outside the box — an excellent gift for young collectors.

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Graham’s Gift Pack N/V, Douro Valley, Northern Portugal

$72.99 I 92/100

UPC: 01111111112595

The Symington Family has assembled a diverse introduction to Port wines from a top-notch producer. Graham’s Finest Port Pack is an intriguing assortment that includes five 200-ml bottles each of Fine White Port, Six Grapes, Late Bottle Vintage, 10-Year-Old Tawny and 20-Year-Old Tawny. All you need are some glasses, a fire, some toasted nuts and a good book to embark on this exciting journey of flavours.

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The Drinks Business says one in five Christmas parties celebrated in 2024 will not serve alcohol. The data gathered from the event booking platform ToGather revealed that Gen Z is pushing the trend and shows how “health, inclusivity, and unique experiences” are “transforming traditional celebrations.” According to the research, the trend is being driven by sober parties being on the rise and for Gen Z, with 74 per cent of respondents saying that health is their top reason for cutting back. Speaking about the research data, ToGather events sales executive Abigal Gliksman said: “As we look toward 2024 Christmas, it’s clear that Christmas parties are evolving in ways that align with Gen Z’s values. Interestingly, no food selections were discussed; presumably, they will be equally healthy, or maybe not.

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•••

If you are looking for a simple, affordable solution for a Christmas dinner that caters to one or two folks up to a house full, think Provence Marinaside in Yaletown. Executive Chef Jean-Francis Quaglia and the kitchen brigade offer Provence’s popular Turkey-To-Go, a traditional Christmas dinner for only $49 per person. Each dinner is precooked and only requires reheating to serve. The whole meal includes carved turkey, roasted vegetables, cranberry sauce, mashed potatoes and gravy, dinner roll and chocolate fondant for dessert. Turkey-To-Go orders must be placed online. Please note: The deadline to place Turkey-to-Go orders is Dec. 22, and Turkey-to-Go orders are available for pickup only on Dec. 24 until 2:45 p.m., so you will need to select that date when placing your order online at provencemarinaside.ca.

B.C. wine of the week

CedarCreek Platinum Jagged Rock Chardonnay 2022, Okanagan Valley, B.C.

$44.99 I 90/100

UPC: 778913801129

Jagged Rock is an exceptional site, as evidenced by the quality Chardonnay from this vineyard in the warm South Okanagan. Look for a bright citrus honey-scented nose streaked with green apples and a leesy brioche note on the back end. On the palate, the theme continues with plenty of intensity and length, with citrus and toasted oak finish sitting over bright acidity. Technically, the organic fruit is fermented in French oak barriques with natural yeast, spending 10 months in oak and six months in stainless steel to tighten the wine before bottling.

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Value wine of the week

S

Stoneleigh Lighter Sauvignon Blanc 2023, Marlborough, South Island, New Zealand

$18.99 I 87/100

UPC: 9414505957010

Look for solid notes of grapefruit and green pepper that butt up against the classic passion fruit and lime notes. It is lip-smackingly dry with bright acidity and ready for sushi, sashimi, or fresh cheeses like goat/chevre or buffalo mozzarella. It’s the low-ish alcohol white you have been looking for and a genuine, legitimate attempt to make a wine with less alcohol without deconstructing it. The goal is to provide the same flavour intensity while reducing the alcohol by 25 per cent. To do that, the fruit is picked at peak flavours while the sugar levels are still low. The grapes from estate vineyards are quickly bag-pressed, and the juice is clarified before fermentation. The winemaking took place in temperature-controlled stainless steel tanks using selected aromatic yeast strains to preserve all the pure fruit aromas naturally present in the juice. I would deem this a success.

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