Anthony Gismondi: 10 Rosés that can kick off the sipping season

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It wasn’t all that long ago that Rosés were an obscure part of the wine business, a summer drink mostly fashionable in southern Europe. That all changed over the last decade, especially outside of Europe. You might say Rosé has become so trendy it is easier to list the wineries that don’t sell pink wine versus the many thousands that do.

While few consumers outside of the five per cent who know wine inside out could find Provence on a wine map, its famous pale-coloured Rosés have changed everything about Rosé at retail. Pale pink, to the point of no colour pink, is the standard of reference that has seen most darker Rosés disappear from the shelves. Along with its colour, Rosé has undergone a when you drink it transformation, moving from items bought and sold seasonally to a wine style that now enjoys year-round sales  — no mean feat in the wine business.

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Of course, many things change when wine goes from an obscurity to a commodity. The price goes up. Quality across a broad spectrum tends to be increasingly variable, and, like everything else in life, you, the buyer, must become smarter if you want to be a successful and satisfied shopper.

In many ways, choosing a Rosé is a lot like choosing a Zinfandel or Riesling. You know what you like, but you don’t know what you are going to get in the bottle. Will it be dry or sweet, light and ethereal, or alcoholic and clumsy?

Now, you are at the mercy of social media influencers, who seldom encounter a product they review that they don’t like. You could ask that person in your peer group who gives wine advice based on their limited knowledge or perhaps turn to an experienced professional wine critic for their opinion.

There is another way. When you have the opportunity to taste a Rosé, make note of the product if you like the style. Once you have a favourite or two, you can measure any other bottle against your preferred style, and before you know it, you will have a short list of favourites you can draw upon on any occasion. It sounds simple, but you need the discipline to take note of each Rosé as you taste it, file away the brand name, or at least take a picture of the label for future reference.

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Finally, don’t underestimate the ability of a well-balanced Rosé to be a great match with food, improving your experience with the wine and the food. England’s Fiona Beckett is one of the best globally at matching food and wine, and for crisp, dry pinks, she suggests “light salads, light pasta and rice dishes, raw or lightly cooked shellfish like oysters, grilled fish and goat cheeses.”  For the fruity Rosés, the choices are “salads and mildly spiced chicken or fish dishes. Finally, for three off-dry sweet pinks, Beckett suggests “with Indian food like tandoori chicken or mild chicken curry.

To get you started, I have compiled a list of 10 Rosés in government stores that you could taste next over the month or two. They are mostly dry and fruity, with a touch of bright or sweet fruit, and most of all, they are fun to drink. You can take it from there. Always buy the youngest, freshest bottle you can find, which this summer means mostly 2023s and 2022s.

Mateus Rosé N/V, Douro/Bairrada, Portugal $1299 and $16.99 1.5L

La Vielle Ferme Ventoux Rosé, France $14.99

Paul Mas Côté Mas Rosé Aurore, France $14.99 (litre)

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Le Petit Chat Malin Rosé, Ventoux, Rhone Valley, France $16.49

Protea Dry Rosé, Western Cape, South Africa $18.49

Bartier Bros. Rosé, Okanagan Valley $19.99

Gérard Bertrand Côte Des Rosés Rosé, Languedoc, France $25.99

Tantalus Rosé, Okanagan Valley $25.99

Chateau Miraval Côtes de Provence Rosé, Côtes de Provence, France $29.99

Tormaresca Calafuria Salento Negroamaro Rosato, Puglia, Italy $51.97 1.5L

Weekend wine picks

Gérard Bertrand Côte Des Rosés Rosé 2021, Languedoc, Sud de France, France

$24.95 I 89/100

UPC: 3514123111002

Gerard Bertrand has been pursuing several Rosé versions, each with its charm. This introductory Côte Des Rosés Rosé comes from various sites across the Languedoc. The blend is Grenache, Cinsault, and Syrah, each vinified separately in stainless steel before blending. The palate is a cool, sleek, fresh affair with a rush of juicy strawberry and raspberry flecked with tangerine and bright acidity that keeps you returning the glass. Finished under a Vino-Loc, the bottle looks as good as it tastes. Prawns, anyone?

Phoenix Afterglow Rosé, Keremeos, Similkameen Valley, B.C.

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$21.90 I 88/100

UPC: 69652021012

The Phoenix labels are new from Corcelettes that take winemaker Charlie Baessler outside the Similkameen estate to source grapes that complement the home team. The wine opens with a pale pink-orange colour and freshly crushed berries streaked with tangerine, citrus, and watermelon. The blend is Merlot, Malbec, Syrah, and Pinot Noir. You can serve solo or on a sunny patio, or go with the winery recommendation: melted Brie with roasted garlic on a baguette. Afterglow is fermented in a mix of stainless steel and neutral oak and is finished with a modest 6.6 g/L of sugar.

Lakeboat Pinot Noir Rosé 2022, Kaleden, Okanagan Valley, B.C.

$18.95 I 87/100

UPC: 749565399869

This simple, off-dry pink fits the adage that what you see is what you get. It has a pale colour and fresh citrus notes with a touch of strawberry and apple, lemon, ginger ale, and red fruits. It is clean, soft, and ready to drink all summer. It is priced reasonably.

Tightrope Winery Rosé 2023, Okanagan Valley, B.C.

$25 I 89/100

UPC: 626990153825

Tightrope opens with an intriguing candied lemon and strawberry nose. The 96/4 blend of pinot noir and barbera is all Naramata, handpicked over a three-week window. The wine is mostly dry on the palate, with just a small bump of residual sugar to smooth out the edges. It’s ready to drink, and you can serve it solo well chilled. It would also be fun with beef tacos or a salmon pizza.

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Tormaresca Calafuria 2021, Salento, Puglia, Italy

$52 I 89/100

UPC: 8026530000480

This peach-pink Rosado is made from the Negroamaro grape. It is sourced from the Maìme estate in San Pietro Vernotico, near the Adriatic, on the Antinori-owned Tormaresca estate in Puglia. You may be surprised by how fresh and vibrant it is while remaining Italian dry and food-friendly. We love the fragrant southern Italian notes of melon and mango that permeate its creamy texture and fresh citrus-sprayed grapefruit and pear fruit. The place has lovely purity and authenticity; hence, it looks Provençal but is Italian. Sold in 1.5-litre bottles.

Calendar items

Mission Hill Family Estate has announced its summer concert series. The live performances include Canadian Music Hall of Fame quartet Barenaked Ladies on Thursday, July 4, multiple music award winners Melissa Etheridge and Jewel on Monday, July 15, and multiple Grammy Award-winning Canadian singer-songwriter Sarah McLachlan on Monday, July 29. Club members had the first shot at these tickets with all remaining tickets to be released to the public on Monday, April 15. The concerts are expected to sell out quickly, so if you want to be part of the live evening musical performances. AdmitOne.com is the exclusive ticket provider for all Mission Hill Family Estate Summer Concert Series events. Tickets are only available for purchase online. Tickets will not be sold at the winery beforehand.

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•••

The Spot Prawn Festival returns on Sunday, May 26. The annual celebration of the iconic local and sustainable delicacy happens at the False Creek Fishermen’s Wharf throughout the day. You can purchase Spot Prawns from local fishers at the docks, view cooking demos and join in on several planned family-friendly events for free. Don’t miss the Prawn Bisque and a Bun to go at $10 each. The signature event is the Spot Prawn Brunch — grazing stand-up style with a tasting menu of six delicious spot prawn dishes, 19 years and older only (no pets) at $79 per person. The event always sells out, and space is limited, so to avoid disappointment, don’t wait to get your tickets on Eventbrite.

B.C. wine of the week

Township 7 Seven Stars Rigel 2021, Okanagan Valley, B.C.

$36.97 I 90/100

UPC: 626990264392

Township 7’s sparkling program is well on its way under its creator winemaker, Mary McDermott. The series is six strong with a seventh label in the offing. All of the wines are made using the classic traditional method. Rigel is named after the 7th brightest and one of the youngest stars in the night sky. It is made with 100 per cent Riesling fruit grown at Fool’s Gold Vineyard in Oliver. The nose is aromatically riesling with fresh lime and minerals blending with toasted brioche. The attack is round and lively, with bright citrus fruit and more stony mineral notes that electrify the middle palate. This is a perfect wine for West Coast oysters and is long, flavourful, and complex. Sparkling Riesling is a good thing in B.C., and this one is super. The Riesling comes from the Fool’s Gold, owned by Mark Antonello, a well-known vineyard manager, and was planted by his father-in-law and renowned Okanagan viticulturist Richard Cleave.

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Value wine of the week

Lakeboat Pinot Gris 2022, Kaleden, Okanagan Valley, B.C.

$21.95 I 88/100

UPC: 696852078610

I think B.C. Pinot Gris can never be too skinny or acidic based on tasting too many soft and sweet versions, but that is not the story here. This Kalenden Gris, with its bright, snappy green apple and white peach, is drenched in citrus with a light mineral underside. You could serve this juicy, fresh white with oysters, salmon, and cream cheese. Simple, well made and ready to drink.

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