Anthony Gismondi: 2022 may be B.C.'s best wine vintage in nearly 50 years. Here are some bottles to try.
There are a couple of big stories in the Okanagan this month. One is the release of the replacement wines made from imported grapes — or finished wine — to help wineries get through 2025. The goal was to create enough wine to keep the winery doors open this summer for tourists and locals alike and, perhaps more importantly, retain the staff and prevent the brain drain of our biggest and brightest winery personnel.
We are just getting to taste some of these bottles but, from a limited number, it looks like the rosés will be among the best early releases. Two wines that have already caught our eye are the Black Market 2024 Cinsault Rosé and the Mayhem 2024 Rosé, either of which will please the most discriminating palate.
The other story flying under the radar is the 2022 vintage, which is generous in size and quality and continues developing in the bottle. It now looks like it could be the best vintage made in B.C. since the restart in the late 1970s and early 1980s. You could argue a few other years would be in the running. Still, none of them had access to the viticultural know-how or the latest technology and winemaking techniques available today.
Recently, I tasted a lot of wine in the Okanagan and, today, I wanted to share some thoughts on some of the best I encountered. Many were from 2022, but not all. As it turns out, 2023 was also a small, cold-struck vintage, but what is in the bottle is showing well.
In no particular order, here are some local buys you can look for over the rest of the spring and summer and buy confidently:
The
Bartier Bros. Cabernet Franc 2022
is a friendly, lush south Okanagan red you can serve with grilled vegetables, pork or beef.
Stoneboat Vineyards Reserve Series Pinot Noir 2022
has a dusty mulberry and raspberry palate with a seam of savoury minerality. The
Three Sisters Winery Betty The Matriarch Series 2022
is a juicy, bright, grapey red with nearly zero tannins. It’s a Pinot Noir version of Zinfandel.
From the Similkameen, the
Clos du Soleil Winemaker’s Series Syrah 2022
is a fragrant affair of florals, savoury sagebrush and ethereal scents of black fruits you can enjoy now with lamb. The Hester Creek Syrah 2022 is different but equally impressive. It is a bolder version of dark blueberries and brambleberries, streaked with spicy, meaty notes and a generous dollop of soft oak tannins.
The lightness and ethereal nature of the 12.1%
Unsworth Vineyards Pinot Noir 2022
is the essence of Pinot Noir, which you can drink most nights with uncomplicated foods. Blue Mountain released three stunning single-vineyard Pinot Noirs in 2022. We thought the best was the
Blue Mountain Pinot Noir Single Vineyard Block 14 Gravel Force 2022
, with its opulent, riper style and hints of Bing cherries and plums. It is a pleasure to sip.
Lake Country’s Peak Cellars 2022 Riesling
was recently awarded Best in Class at the L.A. International Wine Competition: It is all you could want in a summer white. Even more intriguing is the just-released
2019 Chardonnay
, which was only released after extended bottle aging at the winery. We love the bright fruit and acidity, which props up the apple crumble crème brûlée palate.
In short, as difficult as last year was and the recovery is, local producers and their vines are proving to be highly resilient as they manage the recovery and move forward.
Weekend wine picks
Anna de Codorníu Blanc de Blancs Cava Brut N/V, Sant Sadurní d’Anoia, Penedès, Spain
$28.99 I 89/100
UPC:
012976261019
I first encountered this wine about 20 years ago and wondered why it wasn’t sold in Canada. Eventually, it did make its way here, but it never got a fair shake in B.C. It is excellent Cava, mainly made from Chardonnay with a splash of Xarel-lo. The tight green apple fruit, streaked with notes of white fruits, citrus pith and peel, is a delicious late afternoon aperitif or a wine you can serve with any number of sushi rolls or Spanish-style tapas — high quality at a reasonable price. Your guests will enjoy the stylish white wrap packaging as well.
Mayhem Rosé 2024, made in Canada from imported ingredients
$21.83 I 88/100
UPC:
626990352570
The ’24 Mayhem Rosé comes from Gearheart Vineyard in the Wahluke Slope AVA in Washington State. It is 100 per cent Merlot, aged for four months in 79 per cent stainless steel and 21 per cent seasoned puncheons. Winemaker Ajay Chavan has done a terrific job with this juicy pink, a mix of wild strawberries and cranberries that stays the Mayhem course: long on fun and drinkability. Winery direct and select private wine stores.
Black Market Collusion Series Cinsault Rosé 2024, made in Canada from imported ingredients
$36.00 I 91/100
UPC:
696852204538
Rob Hammersley, winemaker and viticulturist at Black Market Wine Company, chose the Provence-style replacement wine route, making a 100 per cent Washington Cinsault from Coyote Canyon Vineyard, from the Horse Heaven Hills AVA. Expect a mix of crisp, dry rosé with a vibrant orange, pomegranate, and dry palate with a hint of juicy pink grapefruit. Even the most discerning rosé fans will be shocked by the quality of this label.
Tantalus Den’s Block Old Vines Riesling 2022, Okanagan Valley, British Columbia, Canada
$56.42 I 94/100
UPC:
626990189954
Descriptions do not do justice to this complete wine, brimming with ripe fruit and rich acidity, which builds a palate that is hard to ignore. The colour is gold, and the nose is a mix of lemons, mandarins, and white flowers with a puff of kerosene and stony minerality. Drink or hold, it will be alive in 2050.
Taylor Fladgate Fine White Port N/V, Douro Valley, Portugal
$22.00 I 89/100
UPC:
5013626111239
White Port is a style that stands on its own in the world of wine: A sweet, fortified white wine that’s both oxidative (in this case, from aging three years in oak vats) and gently aromatic from an array of Indigenous grape varieties. Taylor’s pioneered the dry white aperitif port more than 60 years ago under the Chip Dry label, first blended in 1934, but the “The Fine White Port” is a much sweeter version. Expect a fresh attack with floral, anise, caramel and vanilla flecks. Enjoy this neat in a tumbler or a wine glass, or served over ice with a slice of lemon all summer. The latter is a welcome pre-dinner treat.
Calendar items
• The Vineyard Kitchen at Black Hills Estate Winery on the Okanagan’s Black Sage Bench has reopened for the season in collaboration with Chef Jeff Van Geest of Miradoro Restaurant. The Vineyard Kitchen Hours are Friday to Sunday, 11:30 a.m. to 4:30 p.m. Starting June 1, it will be open seven days a week. It is a spectacular setting and the perfect rest stop between many nearby wineries, including Black Hills, Phantom Creek, Burrowing Owl, Bartier Bros., Le Vieux Pin, French Door, Red Barn, Nostalgia Wines and more. The seasonal outdoor dining experience created with Chef Jeff Van Geest of Miradoro showcases the South Okanagan’s bounty through small, thoughtful plates that pair perfectly with Black Hills Wines.
• Sign of the times: Covert Farms Ltd. is for sale. At 659 acres, it is described as the largest vineyard in the Okanagan Valley and is situated just north of Oliver in the shadow of McIntyre Bluff. The property is planted with various organic grapes, including Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, Semillon, Pinot Noir and more. It has approximately 515 acres of plantable area, supported by state-of-the-art water infrastructure, and a 4,306-square-foot winery and 2,745-square-foot wine shop currently producing 3,500 to 4,000 cases of wine per year. All you need is the money and the energy to jump into the deep end.
B.C. Wine of the Week
Orofino Home Vineyard Old Vines Riesling 2022, Similkameen Valley, British Columbia, Canada
$29.95 I 92/100
UPC:
626990155744
The Home Vineyard 21B Riesling clone is the engine of the Home Vineyard Old Vines Wild Ferment Riesling, now 33 years old. The ’22 is a firm edition, throwing pear, mineral, green apple and nectarine skin with plenty of mineral, wet stone notes, dusted in Similkameen sagebrush. It is a serious wine worthy of contemplation and discussion if you are up to it. Otherwise, drink it and be glad you had the chance to experience it.
Value Wine of the Week
Mantra Lokah Rosé Garnacha — Monastrell 2023, Spain
$13.99 I 87/100
UPC:
8436561121687
This is simple, straight-up, organic, ready-to-drink rosé with refreshing red berries and bitter orange, with a touch of minerality underneath. The blend is Garnacha and Monastrell, giving it a juicy and full-flavoured palate suited to large parties and tight budgets.
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Source: vancouversun.com