Anthony Gismondi: As prices continue to rise there are still some deals to be found

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If you suffer from sticker shock when you go wine shopping, you are not alone. Prices have been creeping up for years, and as someone who frequently encounters the same wines year after year on the tasting table, it is not hard to notice.

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Local wines prices used to rise orderly, going up 25 cents a year, then 50 cents a bottle. But, by the early 2000s, quality started to grow, and producers began spending more money retooling their premises and vineyards. At that point, prices began leaping by as much a dollar a year, closing the gap on highly taxed imports.

Then came the new quasi-wholesale pricing scheme that was supposed to help the hospitality sector. Instead, it turned out to be more of a smokescreen to obfuscate the cost of wine and, ultimately, its retail price, leaving consumers again the losers in wine shops. At the same time, government shifted its tax strategy, removing the historically built-in five per cent GST and 10 per cent PST on liquor, off its shelf prices, creating an instant illusion that liquor was 15 per cent cheaper. It wasn’t the tax was simply added back in 15 feet away at checkout.

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It didn’t take long for the shelf price to return to its original (tax-in) level looking as if it never changed to most consumers unaware of the tax move to checkout. As the windfall profit disappeared into the margins of producers, distributors and retailers the government’s share thanks to repositioning its GST and PST take on even higher bottle prices. Throw in a global pandemic, out-of-control container charges, supply chain issues, the war in Ukraine and coming fuel surcharges and the future of wine prices, and likely selection, looks bleak in B.C.

It should be good news for local producers who have a sweetheart deal to sell directly to consumers — but not so fast. Climate change has wreaked havoc on the latest harvest and future crops in many local vineyards. Reduced yields suggest there won’t be any savings coming out of the Okanagan soon. This week, some of the wines I catalogued have risen in price from $25 to $30 per bottle.

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It’s never been more important to educate yourself to become a savvy wine buyer. It doesn’t mean you need to be a Master of Wine, only that you pay attention to what you like, do some research into the grapes and growing areas before you shop for wines you can afford to drink regularly without selling the house. You may be surprised by how satisfying it can be to drink bargain wines.

If there’s a possible bright light at the end of the tunnel, it is the dozens of wines marked down every month in BCL stores. Many sell for two or three dollars off the regular price; some are reduced by $5 or more. It is where you can put your savvy wine buyer education to work. Let’s see how it works.

If you love Sauvignon Blanc and your favourite New Zealand Sauvignon is no longer delivering what it should for the price, look elsewhere. Chile is an option, you may have some luck with Touraine in the Loire Valley or South Africa, and now you can look to the south of France for some affordable labels.

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A few names to look for would include Santa Rita 120 Sauvignon Blanc at $9.99 (on sale), Two Oceans Sauvignon Blanc at $8.99 (on sale), Lindemans Sauvignon Blanc at $10.99 (on-sale), Santa Carolina Sauvignon Blanc at $14.49, or a terrific bottle of Lurton Les Fumée Blanches at $13.99 (on sale) that is an IGP Gascogne Sauvignon Blanc that has over-delivered for decades.

You can have similar fun with Malbec, although your search would be confined to Argentina at the lower end. Labels to look for are Michel Torino Cuma Organic Malbec at $12.49 (on sale), Trivento Reserve Malbec at $13.49 (on sale), Zorzal Tupungato Malbec at $16.99 (on sale), Kaiken Selección Especial Malbec at $13.49 (on-sale) and the ever reliable Santa Julia Reserva Malbec at $16.99 (on-sale).

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You will have no problem spending more in any of these categories, but under a tax and ad valorem markup system that sits in the weeds waiting to multiply every input cost from legitimate increased production costs to uncontrollable surcharges for containers, insurance, fuel, and more you will have difficulty finding any better value.

Weekend wine picks

Gehringer Brothers Ehrenfelser 2020, Okanagan Valley, British Columbia, Canada

$15.99 I 87/100

UPC: 623871010079

It’s been a decade since I last tasted this wine, but at Gehringer, little changes. The wines are always fresh and precise, which suits this aromatic grape, which can present a bit over the top. However, this wine is for you if you are looking for a bright, fragrant white with honey, mango, orange peel, and grapefruit spiced with ginger and a hint of bitterness. It is a fruity white that finishes just off-dry. I like it with spicy tuna sushi rolls or chicken tacos. Terrific value.

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La Vieille Ferme Luberon Blanc 2020, Lubéron, Sud de France

$13.30 I 87/100

UPC: 631470000049

The Perrin family does a great job with simple but well-made white Rhone that mixes Grenache Blanc with Bourboulenc, Ugni Blanc and Roussanne. The nose is a mix of fresh pastry, yellow pear, quince and lemon oil that spill onto a dry palate with juicy, citrus fruit flavours and creamy textures — a perfect wine for chicken dishes, soft cheeses or shellfish. Terrific value.

Moraine Gewürztraminer 2021, Naramata Bench, Okanagan Valley, British Columbia, Canada

$23 I 89/100

UPC: 626990127765

As evidenced by the latest Gewürztraminer sourced exclusively from Cossentine Vineyard on the Naramata Bench, winemaker Amber Pratt is hitting it out of the park at Moraine. It ticks all the benchmarks, including a heady, floral, perfumed nose of lychee and rosewater. The palate is similar in style, with the addition of orange and ginger. It is fully ready to drink, and I suggest you be adventurous with your food matches, from pork, noodles, veal sausages to a favourite spicy vegetarian dish.

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Santa Julia Reserva Malbec 2019, Valle de Uco, Tunuyán, Central Region, Mendoza, Argentina

$14.99 I 90/100

UPC: 7791728000566

Another winner from the Zuccardi family is this 100 per cent hand-picked Uco Valley Malbec grown at 1,400 metres above sea level. Expect a judicious blend of Malbec fruit aged in concrete, stainless steel and older French oak barrel for 10 months. The nose is classic Zuccardi, fresh and red-fruited, evoking cherries, plums and blackberries, but even better is the texture and persistence of this wine you simply don’t see at this price level in Canada. Back up the truck, again and again.

Stag’s Hollow Syrah Amalia Vineyard 2019, Okanagan Valley, British Columbia, Canada

$28 I 90/100

UPC: 626990095552

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Their 2019 was a cooler than average year across the Okanagan and can produce some exciting wines in the south, where too much heat can be an issue in some years. Less skin contact and less oak were employed to play up the fresher, floral fruit side. It opens with a classic peppery, meaty nose with a fresh reddish/dark fruit dusted in violets and smoked meat. The palate is more similar, with some tart notes and rounded tannins in the finish — a perfect wine for grilled pork or lamb chops. The fruit comes from the sandy loam soils of Amalia Vineyard, Osoyoos West Bench.

Recipe match: Slow-roasted short ribs

Created by writer-model Kendra Austin for Our Place, this dish promises warmth and comfort during a late winter’s day. Serve with a fresh green salad on the side to round out the plate, or enjoy this hearty meat-and-potatoes offering all on its own:

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Slow-Roasted Short Ribs

2 lb (907 g) whole short ribs

6 tbsp (90 mL) butter

Garlic cloves, chopped (use as many as desired)

1 yellow onion, quartered

2 shallots, sliced

2 cups (500 mL) beef broth

1 cup (250 mL) red wine

1 lb (454 g) tricoloured potatoes

1 lb (454 g) tricoloured carrots

Fresh thyme, to taste

Fresh rosemary, to taste

Italian seasoning blend, adobo (or salt), and pepper, to taste

Preheat the oven to 350 F. Chop garlic, quarter yellow onion, and slice shallots. Halve your potatoes to ensure even cooking and leave carrots whole, or cut to match width of carrot if bigger.

Rub the seasonings on each side of your short ribs. I prefer using any adobo mix available and Turn your Perfect Pot up to medium heat. We won’t be here for long, just long enough to get each side browned.

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Melt the butter in the pot and wait for it to start bubbling.

Place short ribs into the pan, browning each side for at least 2 minutes. Do not move them until you’re ready to flip to the next side!

Add shallots, garlic, and herbs in the pot while the last side browns. Turn the heat down to low-medium.

Add your onion, potatoes and carrots. Add additional seasoning to taste to ensure the add-ons aren’t bland. I usually put Italian seasoning blend and some extra salt in this stage.

Cover the meat and vegetables with bone broth and red wine. Let simmer on the stove top for a few minutes and then transfer to the heated oven.

Cook slow and low for 2 to 2 1/2 hours. Read, dance, do a puzzle, clean your closet, whatever in between.

Remove from the oven, plate your meal, light a candle, fork each ingredient for the perfect bite, and enjoy!

Serves 2-4. 

Recipe match

Slow-Roasted Short Ribs and a rich young red wine are made for each other. 

Rust Wine Co. South Rock Vineyard Syrah 2019, Golden Mile Bench, Okanagan Valley, British Columbia, Canada $44 

Rich ribs call for bright fruit, with rich, black plum and blue fruit flavours all stuffed into this Syrah with a silky, peppery texture.

Matchbook Red Gravel Cabernet Sauvignon 2020, Dunnigan Hills, Yolo County, California, United States $15.99 

A perfect mid-week red for slow-roasted short ribs with enough round dark fruit to create a soft and soft match — on sale.