Anthony Gismondi: B.C. wineries need to be more sensitive to their travelling customers

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Last week we looked at new research from UBC Okanagan that reveals that wine sales are inextricably linked to whether or not visitors have a memorable experience on-site.

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“Establishing a sense of place — letting visitors dig right into the soil and smell the earth where the grapes are grown for their wine — is one strategy wineries can use to revive lagging tourism numbers coming out of the pandemic,” the research stated.

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I couldn’t agree more, but not everybody who visits a winery wants or can afford an extended experience for various reasons. To that end, we are seeing a fair bit of pushback in Napa Valley, where prices are now stratospheric for hotel rooms and winery visits.

Vineyard tours, winery tours, lunch, and wine club fees appeared to be part of a plan to weed out the casual vacationer — read low-spending visitor — from the well-heeled traveller with few money worries. But at what cost?

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Winesearcher.com reports a survey of 400 wineries released by Community Benchmark that saw “tasting room visits to West Coast wineries, after rebounding in 2021, are way down this summer compared to pre-pandemic numbers.” In the same story, they point to falling hotel bookings in Napa Valley, where the average daily room rate is US$455, or 43 per cent higher than in 2020. In Yountville, home to the busy French Laundry restaurant, the average hotel room is now US$934.

But here’s the rub, wineries are thriving even if visitors are down. That’s because an average 2019 spend of $80 to $100 has jumped to $110 to $125 today. So fewer visitors are spending more money, obviously enjoying their extended visit. But how many wine lovers are being thrown under the bus, car, train or plane as they struggle with travel costs, hotel rooms and now expensive winery visits?

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The explosion of wineries and wines is part of the problem. There were fewer than a dozen producers in B.C. in 1990 and nearly 300 today. The sheer number of wines has caused widespread distribution issues for wineries hoping to penetrate the market. They need to secure long-term customers like those walking through their doors. The prototype to accomplish that is exclusive one-on-one tours and tastings complete with food you pay for before you buy any new wines.

The appointment/high-end experience got a jump-start during the pandemic and looks like it is here to stay. The challenge for wineries is when you raise prices and reduce access, the market shrinks quickly to the wealthy. Attractive as it sounds, you lose another level of interested wine drinkers and fans who can no longer compete in a pricey, luxury market.

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There is another danger of playing only in the spendy market. Customers can be very demanding; they expect a high level of service at the airport, the hotel, restaurants and the wineries they visit — something hard to achieve in rural settings, pandemic or no pandemic. Moreover, as the world opens up, so does all the non-wine competition, from hiking, biking, diving and fishing to golfing, the theatre, ecotourism, cruising and, well, name your dream vacation pursuit. So there’s that to think about too.

Like anything in wine, the onus on where to go, what to do and what to buy is all on you. You possess all the power simply by choosing to visit a winery or stay home, and the decision will come down to how much you can afford to pay to play. Unfortunately, there are no easy answers.

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I enjoy the new upscale tours and tasting-room experiences, but I think there is room for some price tweaking, especially if you buy wine. Certainly, wineries need to be a little more sensitive if their customer commits to travel to the winery and invest in a visit.

I say that because if I’m doing all the travelling and paying all the costs to get to the winery and back home, paying a fee for a tour and tasting, and then buying wines on-site, the least I expect is to not to be charged the same price anyone ordering online or buying at retail is offered. So, any price reduction would go a long way to keeping me loyal to the brand and returning yearly for more.

Weekend wine picks

Blue Mountain Gold Label Brut, Okanagan Falls, Okanagan Valley, British Columbia, Canada

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$27.90 I 90/100

UPC: 626452601178

What does one say about the Gold Label Brut other than it is nothing but net? The current bottling is based on 2018 fruit, and it’s delicious — a 62/38 blend of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay — there is no Pinot Gris this year, and it is better without it. It spends two years on its lees before dégorgement, followed by another nine months n the cellar — classy fizz at an affordable price. Thanksgiving, anyone?

Pentâge Winery Gewürztraminer 2018, Skaha Bench, Okanagan Valley, British Columbia, Canada

$17.39 I 88/100

UPC: N/A

Pentâge Winery farms 35 acres overlooking Skaha Lake in south Penticton. Pentâge does the aging for its customers, and this 2018 is an excellent example of why a year or three of bootle age can always be a good thing. Expect a full-bodied off-dry style sporting baked apples, poached pear, tangerine and pink grapefruit aromas and flavours. It’s an easy sipping Gewürztraminer searching for spicy noodles or a sweet and sour chicken dish. Well made and selling at a giveaway price. Buy online from the winery.

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Road 13 Rosé 2021, Okanagan Valley, British Columbia, Canada

$23.99 I 90/100

UPC: 626990372912

Winemaker Barclay Robinson has worked some magic here, refreshing this label and taking it down the fresher, lighter, brighter road to success. Their 2021 is a 54/46 mix of estate Pinot Noir and Gamay grown for rosé production on the Golden Mile Bench. Exuberant aromas of rose petals and wild strawberries preview similar flavours on the palate in a much more refreshing style this year. Pairing is easy: clam linguine, summer chicken dishes, grilled mushrooms, and asparagus pasta.

Volcanic Hills Merlot 2017, Okanagan Valley, British Columbia, Canada

$21.69 I 89/100

UPC: 626990259978

Nice to see a ripe, expressive, fruity Merlot from Volcanic Hills. The fruit is Osoyoos-based, so more sandy than volcanic, but there is a delicious plush character streaked with chocolate, black plums, tobacco, and dried herbs. Perfectly aged at five years but will remain so for another three to five years.

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Torres Celeste Crianza 2019, Ribera del Duero, Castilla-Leon, Spain

$29.99 I 92/100

UPC: 8410113003508

Celeste has a history of over-delivering for the price, and it is easy to know why. Maybe it is sheer elegance, possibly its drinkability, or perhaps both. Celeste is made at an altitude of 950 meters above sea level and is among the market’s most charming Ribera del Duero. It is a fabulous restaurant wine, making it an even better value if you buy it and drink it at home. The all Tempranillo red has muted smoky undertones that mix with black cherries, a dash of oak and a warm long, lush, balanced finish. Like last year this is crazy delicious, and it is your choice: you can drink or cellar it for five more years. 

Wine match recipe: Duck Confit With Blueberry Chutney

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Delightfully rich, this recipe shared by the B.C. Blueberry Council pairs duck with a sweet blueberry chutney made with local berries. Served on a fresh baguette, it’s the perfect savoury treat to add to a seasonal charcuterie board.

3 x 125 mL canning jars with rings and lids

2 pieces duck legs

1 container (300 g) rendered duck fat

1 tbsp (15 mL) whole black pepper corns

1 tbsp (15 mL) whole coriander

1 tbsp (15 mL) Dijon mustard

3 cloves garlic

1 recipe Blueberry Chutney (recipe below)

1 demi baguette

Flaked sea salt

Sterilize canning jars, rings and lids. Set aside.

In a small roasting pan place duck legs, skin side up. Sprinkle pepper and coriander. Smash garlic to remove the paper and place in the roasting pan. Pour rendered duck fat over the duck legs. The legs should be just covered with the fat.

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Cover roasting pan tight with foil and place in a cold oven. Turn oven to 300°F/148°C. Roast for 2 to 2 1/2 hours. Remove from oven and remove foil. Let stand for 30 minutes or until cool enough to touch. Drain fat and set aside. Be sure to remove and peppercorns, coriander seeds and garlic and discard.

Remove the skin and discard. Remove duck meat from the bones, discarding the bones. Shred the meat with a fork or you can just use your hands. Be sure to remove any peppercorns, coriander seeds and garlic and discard.

In a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment place the shredded duck meat with Dijon mustard and mix on low. While mixing, slowly drizzle in about 3 tablespoons of the duck fat until well incorporated.
Place the duck mixture into the 3 prepared jars. Be sure to press in the duck mixture so there are no pockets of air. Cover the mixture with a layer of duck fat. Ensure the entire top of the mixture is covered with the fat. Place lid and ring on jar and refrigerate for 24 hours.
Slice demi baguette and lightly toast. Spread duck confit on toast. Sprinkle with sea salt and top with blueberry chutney. Serve immediately.

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Recipe notes: The remaining duck fat can be placed in an airtight container and stored in the refrigerator. The fat can be used in your next duck confit or used to make duck fat roasted potatoes.

Blueberry Chutney

4 cups (1 L) frozen or fresh blueberries

1 can (16 ounces) whole berry cranberry sauce

1/4 cup (60 mL) sugar

3 tbsp (45 mL) balsamic vinegar

1 1/2 tsp (7 mL) grated orange peel

1 tsp (5 mL) ground ginger

1/4 to 1/2 tsp (1 to 2 mL) crushed red pepper

1/4 tsp (1 mL) ground black pepper

In a medium, non-reactive saucepan combine blueberries, cranberry sauce, sugar, balsamic vinegar, orange peel, ginger, and red and black peppers. Bring to a boil; boil uncovered, stirring frequently, until slightly thickened, 15 to 20 minutes. Pour into clean jars; cover and refrigerate up to 3 weeks, place in canning jars and process according to manufacturer’s directions, or place in covered plastic containers and freeze.

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Yields: 3 cups.

Serves two. 

Recipe match

Duck confit with blueberry chutney needs a rich/rich match, and New World Pinot is the way to go. 

Cambria Pinot Noir Julia’s Vineyard 2018, Santa Maria Valley, Santa Barbara Cty, California $38.99 

The inherent warmth of Santa Maria yields a darker fruit profile, brown spices, and rich, glycerous-like textures. Perfect for the confit and the blueberries. 

CrossBarn by Paul Hobbs Pinot Noir 2018, Sonoma Coast, Sonoma County, California $38 

Bright, juicy strawberry, rhubarb, and bramble fruit with a delicate undercurrent of citrus acidity give this Pinot the inside track to pair with rich, flavourful confit duck.­­­­­­