Anthony Gismondi: Burgeoning Okanagan vineyards deserve visit in 2024

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Before 2023 completely fades from memory, we look back at some highlight moments involving B.C. wineries. It’s the kind of information you can tuck away and use if you are planning your Okanagan adventure.

I first encountered the Winemaker’s Cut Gruner Veltliner at Miradoro Restaurant at Tinhorn Creek. I was impressed. Since then, I have been tracking winemaker Michal Mosny’s distinctive Winemaker’s Cut labels, including a first-class Riesling that should have you putting the winery on your must-visit in 2024. The winery is Oliver-based, but they offer daily tastings at District Wine Village.

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Mike and Nicole Dowell were hoping to be farmers; orchards were the plan until they tasted the Chardonnay from a vineyard perched between the rocky slopes above Highway 3 and the Similkameen River. Three estate vineyards later, the couple is busy raising a family and exploring the terroir of West Osoyoos and the Similkameen Valley, producing quality organic wine. They recently opened a charming tasting room, aside from a small orchard and vineyard No. 3, just north of Osoyoos on Highway 97, to present all the Liber wines in one location. I highly recommend a stop and shop to explore all the Liber estate wines.

Speaking of small and family, Bartier Bros. continues to advance the cause of pristine wines that reflect their origin on the Black Sage Bench. Michael and Jodi Bartier are the consummate winery hosts, and the tasting room staff take their lead from them. It is a must-stop for fans of unadulterated wines who love a game of bocce or two.

Across the valley, it is hard to believe that the official recognition given to a series of alluvial fans just south of Oliver, the first Okanagan Valley Sub-GI, better known as the Golden Mile Bench, is turning 10 years old in 2024. There is nothing like an address to help consumers understand where a wine originates. Under Sandra Oldfield’s direction, Tinhorn Creek Vineyards played a big part in getting the sub-GI approved. While Sandra and Ken Oldfield have moved on, Tinhorn is having something of a renaissance under Argentine winemaker Leandro Nosal, who recently released a 2019 Blanc de Blanc Sparkling along with new look Oldfield Chardonnay, Merlot and Syrah lineup. If you haven’t tried the Tinhorn wines in a while, this is the year to revisit the winery.

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Further north at Okanagan Falls, the Meyer family continues to enhance the reputation of B.C. Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. Winemaker Chris Carson has a deft touch with his Burgundian-like wines, working with Okanagan Falls and Naramata fruit. Last year, Terry Myer Stone and her husband, Andrew Stone, founder of Mayhem Winery, Anarchist Mountain, who operate a four-acre vineyard, brought their retail operation to Okanagan Falls and opened an attractive free-standing tasting room on the property at Meyer Vineyards, adding yet another reason to pull off Highway 97. The affordable Mayhem wines and the serious Meyer labels are the antidote to high prices and average-quality wines.

We will stop at the Skaha Bench this week because there are too many wineries to mention. Blasted Church continues to evolve and respond to the modern wine drinker. Under winemaker Evan Saunders, who joined Blasted Church in 2014 and worked his way up from cellar hand to chief winemaker, his wines are now more serious than the labels. The Small Blessings series is as enjoyable as any lineup in the Okanagan; if that doesn’t merit a detour off the Eastside Road, the view from the Skaha Bench is priceless.

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We will continue the conversation moving north next week. Every winery experience is different, so check out their website for complete visiting details to determine what you need to make your visit memorable — and book ahead.

Weekend wine picks

Winemaker’s Cut Madama Butterfly Sparkling Rosé 2021, Okanagan Valley

$32 I 90/100

UPC: 793611018365

Look for an enticing pale, salmon colour. This sparkler is about understatement, led by faint pale fruit reminiscent of strawberries and pink grapefruit. The palate is creamy smooth, animated by a persistent mousse, light citrus and red fruit, and a dry finish. Sophisticated and composed, we matched our glass to some smoked salmon blinis, which was perfect. It is an elegant first look that has me awaiting the next version. Madama Butterfly, the nickname for Cio-Cio-San, a main character in Puccini’s eponymous opera, is a traditional method sparkler made with 50 per cent Pinot Noir and 50 per cent Chardonnay. The style overall is refined and dry. The bubbles are tiny and perfect.

Bartier Bros. Cabernet Franc 2021, Oliver, Okanagan Valley

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$29.99 I 89/100

UPC: 628055147107

The aromas and flavours, spewing blackberry, red plums, and smoky, wild, peppery notes, jump from the glass. The tannins are rich but soft and have a mineral-flinty underside, keeping the finish juicy, fresh, and persistent. Spaghetti Bolognese is a fun match, but others include duck, lamb shoulder, or baked vegetarian dishes — the grapes grown at the Cerqueira Vineyard, Black Sage Terrace in Oliver.

Blasted Church Merlot 2021, Okanagan Falls, Okanagan Valley

$34 I 89/100

UPC: 696852061872

The Blasted Church Merlot is all home estate fruit grown on the Skaha Bench. The vines are 30 years old, the yields are low, and the result is a supremely rich red. Look for plenty of black plums, baking chocolate, black cherries, and fragrant vanilla. This is a stylish red, and it’s only just settling in. Drink or hold, this is a good one. The oak is all French and only 30 per cent new, making for a winning formula.

Tinhorn Creek Blanc de Blanc 2019, Okanagan Valley

$45 I 89/100

UPC: 624802300290

The year 2019 is an excellent followup to 2018, albeit a little lighter on its feet. There is plenty of acidity to keep it fresh and bright throughout and a lovely amount of citrus and subtle tropical fruit. I especially love the creamy texture and leesy brioche notes throughout the wine. It has the delicacy of a blanc de blancs and only lacks the complexity of the world’s best examples.

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Liber Estates Rebil Pinot Noir 2020, Cawston, Similkameen Valley, B.C.

$49.99 I 91/100

UPC: 611138445023

This is a juicy, mid-weight, savoury Pinot with an earthy forest floor, silky textures, cinnamon spice, and a dusting of light tannins. At 13.6 per cent alcohol, it is easy to sip. Simple grilled or baked salmon with a soy-based marinade would be a fine match. The Rebel (Liber backward) Pinot Noir is grown metres from the west-facing banks of the Similkameen River, about four kilometres from the U.S. border. The organic vineyard is uniquely positioned to take advantage of the sometimes cool, sometimes warm, wild and windy site.

B.C. wine of the week

Hester Creek The Judge 2020, Golden Mile Bench, Oliver, Okanagan Valley

$49.99 I 92/100

UPC: 626990112235

The Judge is made from old vines dating back to 1968. The 2020 vintage was highly lauded, and it is reflected in the wine. The blend is 35 per cent Merlot, 34 per cent Cabernet Franc, 28 per cent Cabernet Sauvignon, two per cent Petit Verdot and one per cent Malbec aged in 100 per cent French oak. All French oak and a Merlot Cabernet Franc lead is the recipe for success in the south Okanagan, and this is the best Judge we have tasted. Fresher, tighter with refined black fruit, softer tannins already and flecked with exotic notes; thank you, Petit Verdot and Malbec. It is a savoury joy to behold. A much lower level of caramel and chocolate gives this wine the stature its name suggests. Best of all, this will improve further through 2027.

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Value wine of the week

Villa Maria Sauvignon Blanc Private Bin 2022, Marlborough, South Island, New Zealand

$15.99 I 87/100

UPC: 9414416305528
The traditional Villa Maria Private Bin label sells for $4 less than usual. Crisp, chiselled lemon, passion fruit, asparagus, guava, and lime leaf all come together to run into a fresh-cut grass mid-palate, with a lip-smacking Kiwi Sauvignon finish. This is best with steamed mussels; the simpler the preparation, the better. The only question is, how much is it worth? We will find out on Jan. 27 when the sale ends.

Calendar items

Victoria-based Vessel Liquor continues with a full roster of informative drinks classes above their store for consumers and trade to broaden their drinks education. They have published courses through June, sorted under their mainstay wine (VINcabulary), craft beer (Brew School), cocktail (Raise the Bar), and advanced (Wine Wise) categories. Some upcoming VINcabulary topics include Non-Alcoholic Wine, Try Something NEW, Sicily, Italian Whites, Portugal Beyond Port, and more. The spacious room comfortably seats 18 guests for a friendly, casual, and fun session. Visit the Classroom vesselliquour.com.

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