Anthony Gismondi: Collectible wines mark occasion, year or a person

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Wines for collectors is timely for those looking for something special to give a wine lover for the holidays.

It used to be that buying wine at today’s prices and waiting for it to mature in your cellar made sound economic sense. Not only did you save the premium that years of aging adds to the retail cost of wine, but a decade later, you were assured of owning a scarce and valuable commodity.

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Given the high cost of newly released quality collectible wines, it is hard to believe they could appreciate much more in your cellar. We do know it will be better with time in the bottle, which alone could be enough to inspire you to lay away a few bottles.

It is good to remember that investing in wine is not just about the money. Marking time in a wine cellar is essential to developing fine wine. During the aging period, youth’s harsh, angular components give way to the rounder, more complex flavours that are the hallmark of fine, mature wine.

The long maturation period offers other possibilities as well. Many collectors now “put down” wines to mark special events such as their child’s birthday or wedding anniversary. Imagine celebrating your birthday every year with a great wine as old as you are that you have owned for years. Suppose 2019 is an essential year in your life. In that case, you can buy an array of outstanding Barolos or Brunello di Montalcino labels, just being released from a vintage as good as any in the history of the great Italian reds, especially when you consider how advanced modern wine growing is in Italy’s finest vineyards.

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Planning that far in advance means researching the people and the wines they make. Before you know it, the culture, history, geology, and geography of the world’s top wine regions become part of your education by osmosis.

In terms of cost, quality, and quantity, always remember that you are not buying wine for next week. If the difference between good and great wine is only a few dollars, always buy the better wine. Believe me; the few extra dollars will look like a bargain a decade from now.

The amount to buy is a matter of budget, but three to six bottles of any type are sufficient to age, taste, track and trade. What to buy is the question. In short, most red wines have what it takes to age and top-class reds, especially designated crus, reserve, or single vineyard wines. A sprinkling of German Riesling, some Chardonnay and Champagne should round out your permanent collection.

I have spent some time scouring the B.C. liquor store’s online guide for suitable collectibles and have come up with 12 picks to get you started. If you are a collector, you can buy any of these today as a gift for a collector or your cellar. If your budget is modest, we offered some high-quality, affordable wines for the holidays late last month.

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A case for collectors

Altesino 2018 Brunello di Montalcino, Tuscany, Italy $60

Vinedo Chadwick 2018 Sena, Valle de Aconcagua, Chile $201

Damilano Barolo Cannubi, Piedmont. Italy $170

Joseph Drouhin 2020 Beaune Clos des Mouches 1er, Burgundy France $190

Frescobaldi Castegiocondo Brunello di Montalcino, Tuscany, Italy $58

Martin’s Lane 2020 Naramata Ranch Pinot Noir, Naramata Bench, Okanagan Valley $100

Casa E. di Mirafiore Barolo 2016, Piedmont, Italy $70

Alvaro Palacios 2019 Vi de Vila Gratallops, Priorato, Spain $73.99

Dominio de Pingus Pingus 2015 $1250.00

J.J. Prum 2018Graacher Himmelreich Riesling Spatlese, Mosel Germany $89

Champagne Taittinger Comtes de Champagne Blanc de Blancs 2012, France $350.99

Penfolds 2021 Yattarna Bin 144 Chardonnay, Tasmania $220

 Weekend wine picks

Quinta da Lixa Escolha Alvarinho Loureiro Trajadura 2021, Vinhos Verde, Portugal

$14.99 I 88/100

UPC: 5601333055429

This delicious Vinho Verde mixes three traditional grape varieties: Alvarinho, Loureiro, and Trajadura. At 12.5 per cent, it is light on its feet, and with bright acidity, it is vibrant. This party white will stand up to most seafood appetizers or cheese plates. It goes through a classic white wine fermentation, leaving a fruity white reminiscent of fresh tropical fruits and white flowers. Dry, balanced, and ready to drink, it simply wants a tulip-shaped glass. Fabulous value.

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Cantine Volpi Timorasso Colli Tortonesi La Zerba 2021, Piedmont, Italy

$32.99 I 92/100

UPC: 748132109801

Cantine Volpi Timorasso Colli Tortonesi La Zerba DOC is a captivating white wine that showcases the indigenous Timorasso grape and the rich terroir of the Colli Tortonesi region in Piedmont. La Zerba is at once expressive with rich layers of ripe stone fruit aromas and flavours. Still, the tangy acidity and mineral underside turbocharge the wine and make it something personal and Piemontesi. The winemaking is minimal; there is a hand harvest, a gentle press, and a slow, cool fermentation in stainless steel tanks before the wine goes into old oak barrels to rest and add some complexity. There is a lot of care in keeping the Timorasso authentic. Good value.

Hillside Merlot 2020, Okanagan Valley, B.C.

$21.99 I 89/100

UPC: 628694536836

A lovely, elegant, stylish Merlot that melts in your mouth. Classic soft tannins with cassis, black cherry, and a touch of bitter dark chocolate for balance. This blend features four principal blocks of Merlot from the estate Hidden Valley Vineyard, a bowl-shaped valley behind the winery on Naramata Road: Gjoa’s Vineyard, just across the street; Dickinson Vineyard, about halfway to Naramata and below the road; and Occhi Dolci Vineyard to the South, perched above the lake below Munson Mountain. Subtle, sophisticated, and the perfect mid-week red.

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Giovanni Rosso Nebbiolo Langhe Rosso 2020, Piedmont, Italy

$29.99 I 91/100

UPC: 8028981037091

The Giovanni Rosso Langhe Nebbiolo comes off various aspects between 340 and 520 metres above sea level. It is all hand-harvested, crushed, and fermented on the skins in concrete tanks for 15 days. It gets daily pump-overs and one délestage at the halfway point. The aging is done in large 50-hectare French oak barrels for a few months. The result is a charming floral cherry fruit affair with mostly elegant tannins and bloody red fruit flavours. Stylish and oh so food friendly. Serve this with a touch of coolness, and you will not be disappointed.

Champagne Canard-Duchene Cuvée Leonie Brut N/V, Champagne, France

$57.99 I 89/100

UPC: 3113934001337

Cuvée Leonie Brut is one of those Champagnes you see everywhere because the price is hard to beat. It has a long production history, back to 1868, and the formula is pretty simple: a 40/40/20 Pinot Noir/Pinot Meunier/Chardonnay together with 25 per cent reserve wines and 36 months of aging on lees. The style is softer and fatter than most, with a bit of sweetness to smooth it all out. Friendly, ready to drink, and about as good as possible for the price.

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