Anthony Gismondi: European wines to try at $25 or less

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A decade ago, I was inspired by the famous 1957 Frommer’s Guide: Europe on $5 a Day to write a column on European wine selling for less than $25 a bottle — adjusted for inflation. The idea was to highlight fine-quality wine for less than $25. Today, we continue the challenge at less than $25 despite an adjusted inflation figure of $33 to see if we can develop a compelling list of wines.

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Europe can be a treasure trove of quality affordable wine if only because it has so much to offer. While much of the New World continues to spin its wheels, growing and selling a handful of varietal wines led by Cabernet Sauvignon and Chardonnay, Europe’s diversity of appellations and grape varieties has given it a new attraction to budding wine drinkers who want to embrace a more comprehensive selection of wines, especially those who enjoy wine with food.

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Hence, varietal wines like Chardonnay, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Merlot give way to more enticing monikers such as Bordeaux, Rioja, Burgundy, Barolo, Cote du Rhone, Languedoc, not to mention grapes like Assyrtiko, Cortese, Furmint, Nebbiolo, Separavi, Ribolla Gialla and so many more. As a consumer, you have to work a bit harder to understand the wines of Europe, but the rewards are many. Higher acids, a leaner structure and often lower alcohol typically make it more drinkable with food. Perhaps the most significant difference is you tend to get more wine for your money when comparing European wines versus local labels.

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For retailers, the idea of selling well-made, unique wines from a genuine place you can find on a map will become increasingly important as the fickle wine drinker wanders off into the low, or no-alcohol market, refreshment beverages, beer, or spirits market.

So, where does one begin to explore Europe? White wines can be particularly rewarding when they are food-friendly, and given the mix of seafood and Asian dishes available in B.C., Riesling or those with Riesling-like freshness (Germany, Italy or Austrian) is a great place to start. As we have mentioned in previous columns, Albariño (Spain), Viognier (France), and Grüner Veltliner (Austria) all come quickly to mind. Northern Italian whites, such as Cortese or Verdelho from Spain’s Rueda region, are equally charming and pair well with light seafood dishes, grilled chicken, and pasta; few will break your budget.

The red wines of Europe are plentiful, and for the bored-out-of-your-mind Merlot or Cabernet Sauvignon drinker, they can be a much-needed tonic. Portugal’s Douro Valley is a great place to look for dry reds. Sometimes, the wine is made from a field blend of 50 or 60 different grape varieties.

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From Spain, the soft, easy-sipping Grenache and its earthy Monastrell (Mourvèdre) counterpart are all the rage with young people. The price is right, and the fruit is even better. The Rhone Valley and the Languedoc have experienced a string of excellent harvests in France. When coupled with affordable prices, you have a rich selection of appellations, mixing Grenache, Syrah, and Mourvedre, all gaining widespread consumer recognition from which to choose.

There is a treasure trove of Italian red wine, especially for adventurous drinkers heading south to the Marche, Basilicata, or Apulia regions. Each produces warm, generous reds that, over the last decade, have shown refinement that makes them reliable, everyday, go-to wines at fair prices.

As for travel, the $5-a-day tour equates to $60 today, or barely enough to get that extra bag on your flight to Europe.

Here’s a short list of Europe for less than $25 a bottle. Enjoy

• Louis Bernard Côtes du Rhône Villages Rouge 2020, Rhone Valley, France $17.99

• Famiglia Pasqua ‘Romeo & Juliet’ Passione e Sentimento Rosso 2021, Veneto, Italy $18.99

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• El Petit Bonhomme Tinto 2022, Jumilla, Spain $18.99

• Paul Mas Viognier, Languedoc, France $14.99

• Pedra Cancela Dão Selecção do Enólogo 2018, Dão, Portugal $18.99

• Gérard Bertrand Corbières An 806 2019, Languedoc, France $19.99

• Selbach Riesling Fish Label 2021 Riesling, Mosel, Germany $20.99

• Basilisco Teodosio Aglianico del Vulture 2018, Basilicata, Italy $21.99

• Chateau de la Gravelle Muscadet Sevre et Maine Sur Lie, Loire, France 2020 $21.99

• Laurenz V. Singing Grüner Veltliner 2022 Kamptal, Austria $23.99

Weekend wine picks

Cecchi Chianti Classico Storia di Famiglia 2019, Tuscany, Italy

$19.99 I 87/100

UPC: 8006030050819

This Chianti Classico is a 90/10 mix of Sangiovese and other red grapes. The style is light with a medium body and red cherry chocolate with a dusting of mushrooms and forest floor. It spends a year in large wooden casks and another 60 days in the bottle before release. Established in 1893, Cecchi (pronounced check-ee) is one of the oldest producers in Tuscany. The classic spaghetti red is equally suited to takeout Chinese.

Selbach Riesling Fish Label 2021, Mosel, Germany

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$20.99 I 89/100

UPC: 717215001707

The Selbach Fish Label, an off-dry Riesling made by one of the oldest wine families in Germany, with roots that go back to the 1600s, has become an essential brand for the Selbach family. It is fruity, aromatic white packed with white flowers, peach overtones, and fresh green apples, all acutely balanced by bright Mosel acidity. Juicy and delicious, this is a classy patio pour or wine you can serve with various southeast Asian fare. Consistent year to year, although the price is creeping toward its maximum value limit.

Les Vignerons du Castelas Côtes du Rhône 2020, Côtes du Rhône, Rhone Valley, France

$20-$23 I 88/100

UPC: 3760052891014

This delicious workhorse red blend of 60/40 Syrah/Grenache comes off vines that average 30-plus years in the ground. Cherries and red berries with a dusting of pepper and rich, round, soft tannins coat the palate that finishes with a twist of garrigue. Expect terrific value in a red suited to beef tacos, pizza, grilled vegetables, and more. Stock up for the barbecue season. It’s only in private wine stores, but worth seeking out.

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Bailly Lapierre Saint-Bris Sauvignon Blanc 2022, Burgundy, France

$25 I 88/100

UPC: 3371801811445

Saint-Bris is a small appellation in the north of Burgundy where Sauvignon is the AOC grape, not Chardonnay. Wines from vineyards around Saint-Bris-le-Vineux planted with Chardonnay or Pinot Noir are not included in the Saint-Bris AOC but are allowed the appellation Côtes d’Auxerre. Given the herbal guava grapefruit notes, it is obvious why Chardonnay is not the main play, at least not yet. This is an enjoyable round, nutty, almost baked pear baked apple style of Sauvignon that slides down easily with just enough acidity to keep it fresh. The fruit is ripe to the point of nearly being sweet, but the juicy, fresh palate and the nutty, baked apple and pear flavours quickly draw you into the glass. Ready to drink with fish tacos or spicy sushi dishes and chicken salad?

Selbach Grauburgunder Dry 2022, Mosel, Germany

$27.99 I 90/100

UPC: 717215002971

In Germany, Pinot Gris or Pinot Grigio is known as Grauburgunder, loosely translated as the “grey Burgundian.” The Selbach edition lives up to its name because it presents drier and with a higher acidity than many of its cousins, save for a handful of top northern Italian editions. This fabulous, dry white draws you back to your glass until the bottle is gone. Expect a subtle floral overtone with crisp citrus touched with spice and a saline, mineral, limestone finish. Stylish, sophisticated, and ready for seafood, chicken, or sushi.

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Calendar items

The Tasting Climate Change conference, organized by ex-Vancouverite Michelle Bouffard, invites you to consider the future of the wine industry in terms of its sustainability. The challenges faced by the ecological crisis are numerous and complex. The most recent conference of international experts was held in Montreal in January 2024, where many noted speakers shared their knowledge with the wine world. You can watch the footage of all 13 conferences and panel discussions at your leisure. The ticket is $172.47 with taxes and is available on Eventbrite.

•••

The Okanagan Wine Festivals returns this June with three weeks of events across wine country. The spring festival will focus on a Taste and Sips series of events from June 2-23. The official launch is at the Penticton Trade and Convention Centre on Friday, June 7, following the B.C. Wine Awards with the Valley First presents Top 50 Grand Tasting. The Tastes Series will launch with the Naramata Bench Wineries Association on Sunday, June 2, followed by the District Wine Village on Saturday and Sunday, June 8 and 9. There is much more planned, and you can see all the details and book your tickets at www.thewinefestivals.com.

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B.C. wine of the week

Township 7 Seven Stars Polaris 2020, Okanagan Valley

$39.97 I 92/100

UPC: 626990024613

Township 7’s sparkling program is well on its way under the watchful eye of its creator winemaker, Mary McDermott. The series is six strong with a 7th label in the offing. All the wines are made using the classic traditional method. Polaris is the guiding light for the program, a Blanc de Blanc that flirts with finesse and flavour, pitching pure, green apple fruit, white florals, and lemon pith on the nose, a creamy texture plate and subtle peach and lime notes on the palate. The 2020 is slightly drier than previous versions, adding the complexity we crave in this wine.

Value wine of the week

Arrogant Frog Ribet Red Cabernet Sauvignon-Merlot 2019, Languedoc, France

$12.99 I 87/100

UPC: 03760040424941

The not-so-arrogant Frog is a fun 55/45 mix of Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot, awash in savoury soft Languedoc fruit and representing terrific value. It’s grown between the Mediterranean Sea and the Hérault Valley from vines 20 to 40 years old. The palate is packed full of black jammy fruit, chocolate, blackberries, and glossy vanilla  — via 25 per cent new French oak aging. This modern red from southern France is made for a summer backyard barbecue.

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