Anthony Gismondi: Fall is the perfect time to visit B.C.’s wine country

Article content

The unofficial start to fall begins next week. Finally, with the kids back in school and many more of us returning to the workplace in person, B.C. wine country should revert to its much calmer, more rural roots, and that’s good news for the many who have been avoiding the crowds and the travails of travel.

Article content

Shorter lines, the less hustle and bustle at the hotels, and fewer highway travellers make the fall a prime season to visit wine country to take in some of the many changes that have swept across the industry since the start of COVID-19 back in 2020. Of course, you still need reservations when you show up at a hotel, restaurant or winery, but for the most part, you will be meeting people prepared for your arrival and ready to make your visit more enjoyable.

Article content

Best of all, the fall provides the chance to experience the 2022 harvest or crush in person — at least from a distance.

Despite a cool, wet spring and harsh cold winter, the recent warm spell across the province has buoyed hopes for a quality harvest, although yields or quantities are expected to be below average.

Article content

If it is not already underway, harvest at sparkling wine producers is moments from kickoff. A two-step fermentation method is required to make traditional sparkling wine — one inside the winery, the other inside the bottle, and it all requires a high-acid base obtained from early-picked grapes to commence. After that, phenolic-ripe grapes will flood wineries and “crush,” as it is better known today, will be full-on for the next two and half months across B.C.

First up in a long line of grapes to be picked will be Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay and Pinot Gris from the warmest sites. The timing of each pick is a fascinating study in terroir and the interaction of winegrowers. It lasts for at least two months, if not lengthier, ending in early to late November with the picking of Cabernet Sauvignon, Petit Verdot and Riesling from the coolest sites.

Article content

The dance begins in the vineyards. Winemakers and viticulturists walk between the rows of vines daily to taste and assess the ripeness of the crop. Then, the grapes are analyzed in a laboratory but only to confirm what has already been physically tasted. In days gone by, the decision to pick meant the entire vineyard. Today it could be a row, one side of a row, or a designated block. In some cases, the pickers could pass through a vineyard block two or three times over a two or three-week period seeking different acidity and sugar levels to add complexity to the final blend.

Over the next 10 weeks, the grapes will slowly disappear from vineyards across the province, mainly during early morning picks when the bunches are cold and the acidity is freshest. With vineyards scores of kilometres apart, there is no easy way to know when the Merlot or the Chardonnay will show up at the winery. The best winemakers can hope for is an orderly procession of grapes allowing enough time to flip tanks and vats between varieties and carry on.

Article content

As a tourist, you’ll know if the harvest is on by the smell of fermenting grapes in the air. However, if you are up early enough, you could witness people and machines picking grapes in vineyards all over the valley. While most wineries are not equipped to accept large numbers of visitors during the harvest, some will invite you to experience the crush up close. Crush pad activities can be a lot of fun to observe but be sure to be on your best behaviour and stay out of the crew’s way. Unlike most jobs, they only get one chance a year to make wine, so the pressure is on to get it right.

If you want to play along and you find yourself in a vineyard over the next month, carefully select some individual berries to taste. Remember to pick fruit from the sunny and shady sides of the row. Next, taste for the sugar/acid balance, chew the skins to assess the tannins and inspect the pips for colour to see how ripe or brown they are.

Article content

Now breathe in and make the decision to call the pick. Is it yes, or is it no? No pressure but everything depends on you being right.

Weekend wine picks

Terravista Viognier 2021, Okanagan Valley, British Columbia, Canada

$24.00 I 91/100

UPC: 627843135296

Terravista’s 2021 is a skilful blend of Naramata understatement and Similkameen wilderness fermented in stainless steel and blended post ferment. Expect a stony, fresh, electric version that is delicious. Look for apricots, honeysuckle, spice, and a silky smooth interior enlivened by squeezes of lime. Don’t miss this one. It is a super cool B.C. white wine, and the price is very amenable.

Domaine Gayrad Loin de L’Oeil 2019, Gaillac, Sud-Ouest, France

$34.99 I 91/100

Article content

UPC: 696852051033

Loin de l’Oeil, is the dominant white grape in Gaillac, a commune in the south of France near Montpellier. It is a juicy, lean wine with more style than weight. Look for green fruit highlights and plenty of minerality with a saline citrus undercurrent. A small pinch of tropical fruit and spice wraps up a clever white wine that will be a terrific seafood wine. Fine quality. Drink or hold a year or two.

Doña Paula Estate High Altitude Malbec 2019, Gualtallary, Tupungato, Central Region, Mendoza, Argentina

$15.99 I 89/100

UPC: 836950000056

In Tupungato’s Gualtallary, Finca Alluvia sits in the middle of nowhere, some 1,350 metres above sea level or about 120 metres higher than Vancouver landmark Grouse Mountain. A stony, edgy Malbec comes with black and blue fruit and a floral, mineral undercurrent. Fresh, spicy and stony, it is a sleeker, drier, more mineral, less puppy fat style Malbec — perfect with a meaty pizza or a favourite Italian cheese. Currently reduced $4 a bottle in 185 stores until Sept. 3.

Article content

Luigi Bosca Malbec 2019, Mendoza, Argentina

$21.99 I 91/100

UPC: 7791203001231

Luigi Bosca was always a steady, value-for-money performer, but over time they have upped the quality of this affordable label. At 50+ years old, the east-facing, biodynamically farmed Finca La Linda vineyard is in full flight. Black plum, blueberries, and black raspberries have a tightness and tannin profile that gives the wine some gravitas, and it spends a year in French oak to round out the edges. Age worthy, but you can now drink it with grilled beef or a classic spaghetti Bolognese. On sale.

Haywire Pinot Noir 2020, Oliver, Okanagan Valley, British Columbia, Canada

$27.91 | 89/100

UPC: 626990161868

Haywire Pinot is the perfect introduction to natural cool-climate B.C. red-fruited Pinot Noir. It is a mix of Kelowna, Summerland, Naramata, and Oliver fruit, fermented in concrete and large format neutral oak, all of which help the wine to express the fruit. Look for earthy red fruit, cranberry, and rhubarb on the palate with spice and desert scrub notes along the journey. Ready to drink.

Article content

Recipe match: Salmon Wellington

This recipe from chef Tommy Shorthouse at Fanny Bay Oysters and Bar takes a classic Wellington dish and adds a West Coast twist thanks to salmon and crab meat subbed in for beef. This rich-and-creamy dish is a one-and-done thanks to an interior spinach wrap serving up a portion of veg, or serve with a fresh side salad for an added bite of greens.

2 lb (907 g) salmon filets (pin-boned and skin removed)

1 sheet (10″ x 15″) puff pastry

2 eggs, one whole and one yolk, beaten

4 oz (114 g) Dungeness crab meat (optional)

1 lb (454 g) spinach, lightly blanched and patted dry

3/4 lb (340 g) mushrooms, cooked and finely chopped

1 lb (454 g) large leeks, sliced into half moons, rinsed and cooked until tender

Article content

1/4 lb (114 g) fine dry seaweed rehydrated in cold water, coarsely chopped and patted dry

1 lemon, zested and juiced

1 bunch flat-leaf parsley, finely chopped

Pinch Maldon salt

Sauce

2 cups (500 mL) whipping cream

1/2 small bulb fennel, sliced

3/4 cup (180 mL) dry white wine

4 cloves garlic, roughly chopped

2 large shallots, peeled and roughly chopped

4 oz (114 g) chives, chopped

2 tbsp (30 mL) capers

Have vegetables and filling for the salmon wellington processed, cooked and cooled before any further steps.

For the sauce, combine wine, whipping cream, sliced fennel, garlic and shallots and reduce by half to flavour and thicken. Once reduced and thickened, strain through a china cap and set aside to heat and serve.

Article content

For filling, combine the hydrated and processed seaweed, picked crab meat (if using), cooked and processed mushrooms, chopped parsley, lemon zest, leeks, salt and pepper. Keep refrigerated until assembly.

Rinse spinach in cold water before cooking. Very lightly blanch the spinach leaves in hot water and shock in ice water for 3-5 seconds. Once cool, remove spinach from water and place on paper towel to pull out extra moisture. Set aside to begin building salmon wellington.

Place frozen puff pastry on baking tray lined with parchment paper to temper. Tear off a piece of plastic wrap the same dimensions as puff pastry sheet and place flat on the counter. Spray very lightly with non-stick cooking spray and begin lining with blanched spinach, overlapping so as not to allow any gaps to form.

Article content

Place crab-seaweed mixture in an even flat square atop spinach leaves. Place skinned filet of salmon on top of the mixture flesh-side down. Tightly and carefully fold the spinach over the exposed salmon filet in a clockwise manner to create a tightly formed package. Remove the plastic wrap.

Beat the eggs and brush one side of the puff pastry with egg. Reserve remainder of egg for baking. Gently lift and place the salmon-spinach package in the centre of egg-washed puff pastry sheet. Tightly wrap the puff pastry over the salmon while trimming any excess pastry with a pair of kitchen scissors.

Flip the pastry-wrapped salmon over and place back on the parchment-lined baking sheet. Brush with remaining egg wash and lightly spring with sea salt flakes.

Article content

Bake on the middle rack at 400 degrees Fahrenheit for 20-23 minutes. Remove and allow to rest for 10 minutes before carving/serving. While resting, reheat cream reduction and add capers and chopped chives.

Serves 3-4. 

Recipe match

Salmon Wellington is as rich as salmon, so we recommend an equally compelling Pinot Noir. 

Giant Steps Single Vineyard Wines Sexton Vineyard Pinot Noir 2020, Yarra Valley, Australia $67.99 

Earthy cherries, dark plums and a swath of forest floor and licorice combine to take this sweet Pinot to the next level.

Chain Reaction Pendulum Pinot Noir 2020, Naramata Bench, Okanagan Valley $30 

A complex, enticing combination of expressive fruit and earthy savouriness, sweet dark cherry and beetroot — made for salmon.