Anthony Gismondi: Global shift to white wine affecting growers

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Life isn’t always a Cabernet, as recent data might suggest. One of the biggest trends in the wine business, which isn’t exactly booming, is a rise in white wine sales, according to a global white wine market report by Fact.MR sales increased by nearly five per cent by the end of 2022, totalling $39 billion. Analysts say the market will keep expanding to reach around $67 billion by the end of 2033.

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In 2023, Meininger International reported that the Rhône Valley had set itself the goal of transforming its image as a red wine region into a significant white wine producer, and it is not alone. Given the drop in red wine consumption, many wine regions known for red wine production are assessing their futures. High prices, high alcohol, and rich tannins have all played a role in consumers’ search for fresher, lighter, primarily white wines. And there is more.

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French red wines have experienced a 32 per cent drop in consumption over the last decade, while global warming has caused problems for grape growers trying to adapt to rising temperatures and frequent heat spikes. Compounding the vineyard challenges are consumers trying to escape the new normal of warmer weather patterns spilling from summer into spring and fall by reaching for fresher, light white wines.

Ironically, the recent Gambero Rosso tasting in Vancouver, which featured a room full of highly rated Italian red wines, saw almost every producer pour an equally high-calibre white. From Prosecco and Franciacorta sparkling wines to electric mineral-soaked dry whites from Fruili, the Veneto, Marche, and Sicily, there was no shortage of excitement in the glass.

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We may be known as the New World to Europeans, but the Canadian food and wine scene is entering a mature market era. The art of pairing food and wine has become second nature to many, and modern white wine from across the globe is proving to be a helpful vector for unlocking a wealth of food possibilities at the table.

The good news is white wine choices, including a tidy crop of local labels, are nearly limitless. Today, we look at several white grapes that are leading the way. Call it a grape wish list of sorts to keep the West Coast wine movement fresh and moving forward or an adventure to escape the dross of everyday wine.

Albarino-Alvarinho is the grape, and Spain is its spiritual home, but there are other versions in Portugal, Uruguay, Canada and more. Our pick: Terravista Albariño 2022, Naramata Bench, Okanagan Valley, $31.

Global interest in excellent, coastal, delicious Sauvignon Blanc has gone beyond New Zealand, with top labels from South Africa and Chile. Our pick is Jabber The Winemaker The Blend Sauvignon Blanc 2023, Valle de Casablanca, Chile, for $22.99.

The Ortega grape, a cross between Müller-Thurgau and Siegerrebe is a fresh, aromatic white making waves in some parts of B.C. wine country. It is a perfect wine for Asian fare. Our pick is  Sunnybrae Ortega 2022, Shuswap, $19.50

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Given space limitations, here are some other grapes to Google that could change your summer wine list in a good way: Assyrtiko, Garganega, Gros Manseng, Nascetta, Arneis, Timorasso, Semillon, Chenin Blanc, Grenache Blanc, Gruner Veltliner, Kerner, Müller-Thurgau, Scheurebe, Alvarinho, Arinto,

As life slows and the summer heat returns, you may find yourself holding a glass of white wine instead of rosé or red because the options are all yours.

Weekend wine picks

Castell d’Or Cava Brut Rosé N/V, Tarragona, Catalunya, Spain

$18 I 88/100

UPC: 8437020585040

Expect a pale pink-orange eye of the partridge colour and refined tiny bubble mousse. The nose and palate are a mix of ripe red fruit that persists through the finish. Ready to drink and versatile for food matching, the winery suggests spicy appetizers, fish, rice dishes, pasta, and creamy cheeses. Made in the traditional method, it spends 12 months aging on its yeast before disgorgement.

Kono Sauvignon Blanc 2022, Marlborough, South Island, New Zealand

$19.99 I 88/100

UPC: 9421003134010

There are no significant changes here from this reliable Marlborough Sauvignon producer. Bright and fresh, it leads with a mix of guava and citrus in an easy-sipping white where the acidity is in check. The style is fruit-driven, but they halt the fermentation with a touch of residual sugar to balance the palate and finish. Expect a bit of candied pear and grapefruit on the dry end. Serve with a charcuterie plate or freshly steamed mussels.

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Argiolas Costamolino Vermentino di Sardegna 2022, Sardinia, Italy

$21.99 I  90/100

UPC: 8010544110754

We like to say you can set your watch by Costamolino because, year in and year out, these guys deliver, and the price of the wine remains stable and sensible. This Vermentino comes from cool, hillside vineyards above the Mediterranean in Sardegna. The nose is an enticing floral affair with lemon and ginger that spills onto a mid-palate of quince and juicy, ripe stone fruit with a twist of tangerine. Seafood, including squid, crab, clams, and mussels, is best here. Serve throughout summer.

Bailly Lapierre Saint-Bris Sauvignon Blanc 2022, Burgundy, France

$29.99 88/100

UPC: 3371801811445

Saint-Bris is a small appellation north of Bourgogne where Sauvignon is the AOC grape, not chardonnay. Wines from vineyards around Saint-Bris-le-Vineux planted with Chardonnay or Pinot Noir are not included in the Saint-Bris AOC but are allowed the appellation Côtes d’Auxerre. Given the herbal guava and grapefruit, it is obvious why Chardonnay is not the main play, at least not yet. This is an enjoyable round, nutty, almost baked pear-apple style of sauvignon that slides down easily, with just enough acidity to keep it fresh. The fruit is ripe to the point of nearly being sweet, but the juicy, fresh palate quickly draws you into the glass. Ready to drink with fish tacos or spicy sushi dishes.

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Champagne Pol Roger Brut Reserve N/V, Champagne, France

$73.99 I 92/100

UPC: 089744142450

Pol Roger opens with an ethereal scent of green apple, nectarine skin, and brioche. On the palate, faint hints of toasted nuts and bread dough with a pinch of honey are balanced perfectly by its impeccable acidity. It’s one of the finest wines you can serve with fresh shucked oysters, and it offers bug value in a ready-to-drink Champagne.

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Township 7 Vineyards & Winery is again part of the annual Support, Ship & Sip charity campaign, benefiting the B.C. Hospitality Foundation (BCHF). Dedicated to assisting hospitality and tourism workers facing unexpected health challenges, BCHF has provided critical support to over 300 individuals since its inception in 2006. Throughout May, Township 7 will donate $10 from every online purchase to the BCHF and collect direct donations on behalf of the charity.

“As a member of the hospitality community, we understand the challenges faced by our peers,” said Mike Raffan, general manager of Township 7 Vineyard & Winery. “We are grateful for the support of our customers and community in helping us make a positive impact through Support, Ship & Sip. You can join Township 7 Winery in its efforts by visiting township7.com during May to make a purchase or direct donation.

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•••

Mayhem Wines has announced its upcoming campaign to support breast cancer research and awareness by releasing a pet project by winemaker Ajay Chavan, a limited-edition Breast Cancer Canada 1.5L Magnum Rosé. Only 72 bottles were produced and are only available at the tasting room. Chavan lost a close family member at an early age to breast cancer and understands firsthand the effects on all families. For all of May, Mayhem will be donating $5 from every magnum sold to Breast Cancer Canada, as well as all tasting fees collected, and accepting donations in the tasting room or online at bcsc.akaraisin.com.

B.C. wine of the week

Township 7 Seven Stars Rigel 2021, Okanagan Valley

$36.97 I 90/100

UPC: 626990264392

Rigel is named after the 7th brightest and one of the youngest stars in the night sky, but at Township 7, it is an all-Riesling sparkler grown at Fool’s Gold Vineyard in Oliver. The nose is aromatically Riesling with fresh lime and minerals blending with toasted brioche. The attack is round and lively, with bright citrus and more stony mineral notes that electrify the middle palate. This is a perfect wine for West Coast oysters and is long, flavourful, and complex. Sparkling Riesling is a good thing in B.C., and this one is super.

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Value wine of the week

Famiglia Pasqua Romeo & Juliet Passione e Sentimento Rosso 2021, Veneto, Italy

$18.99 I 88/100

UPC: 8007880140200

This modern Rosso is a 40/30/30 blend of Merlot, Corvina, and Croatina, hand-harvested and dried for one month into wooden trays. The subsequent loss of 30 per cent water content concentrates the grape sugars, enriching the structure of the wine. Each variety is fermented solo in stainless steel, and the wine is aged in large, second-fill cherry barrels for three months. The final blend follows, and as you might expect, the Merlot and the drying give the wine immediate appeal and drinkability. The style is fresh cherry-berry with pleasantly spicy, soft tannins — a super value red for spaghetti and meatballs. There are no significant changes here, although the price continues to climb to a new high at $19.

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