Anthony Gismondi: High-quality fruit has put B.C. in the Pinot Noir game

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I’ve been assessing the current state of B.C. Pinot Noir, whose numbers have grown by 68 per cent between 2008 and 2019. That is more than any other widely planted red.

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Demand is rising as a marketplace once fixated on Cabernet Sauvignon, Shiraz, and other power reds is shifting its attention toward lighter, softer red wines like Tempranillo, Gamay, Sangiovese and the head turner, Pinot Noir. On the downside, there is almost no inexpensive Pinot Noir worth drinking in the market, local or imported, so be prepared to pay $25 at the minimum, which can quickly escalate to $75 to $100.

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It used to be that Burgundy was the standard by which all Pinot Noir was judged. But given its stratospheric price points and the difficulty of buying anything affordable, I would suggest most buyers under 45 years of age haven’t experienced a meaningful Burgundian moment.

That has left them to look to other places, such as New Zealand. The Kiwis have been fixated on selling Pinot Noir for over 20 years using a strategy that 50 per cent of the Pinot market is rubbish and would be easy to overtake. We can say that mission has been accomplished, and many others have followed across the New World choices, including northern California, Chile, Germany and Oregon and a place virtually unknown to the modern wine buyer outside of Western Canada, British Columbia.

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Pinot Noir has always been a heartbreak grape because it needs a lot of attention to get to the finish line every year. On another level, despite its fussy attitude, it has been highly adaptable. It is said to be the oldest cultivated variety of the genus Vitis, and over that time, it has spawned many clones thanks to its genetically unstable nature. With a wealth of individual idiosyncrasies, the clones have improved a lot of New World Pinot Noir. In British Columbia, the hunt for the perfect site and Pinot clone is now a generation old, bearing high-quality Pinot Noir fruit that has put B.C. in the game.

The vast size of B.C. has given us an abundance of sites to explore, and there is no shortage of investigations and experimentation. Areas of keen interest include the Cowichan Valley on Vancouver Island, Okanagan Falls, Naramata Bench, Summerland, West Kelowna, East Kelowna and Lake Country. It will take time for each of these areas to unravel its DNA in the bottle, but early signs are encouraging. Aromas, structure and flavour profiles unmistakable in Pinot Noir are essential steps. From there, knowledge gained over time should bring clarity and authenticity to the glass.

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Searching for Pinot is frustrating but start with the winery. If a six-pack or a case is too much to handle, ask them which retailers sell their wines. They should be able to point you to someone in your neighbourhood or nearby that carries the wine. You may have to join a wine club to get your foot in the door. Remember, you can share a case among friends to cut costs. Now what to buy?

Unsworth, Blue Grouse and Averill Creek are Vancouver Island names to watch, led by the single vineyard Unsworth Saison Vineyard Pinot Noir. Blue Grouse Quill Pinot Noir 2020 is a terrific bargain at $25. In Okanagan Falls, Blue Mountain and Meyer Vineyards are leaders with growing support from Liquidity Wines and Stag’s Hollow. Don’t miss the Meyer Family Vineyards Pinot Noir Micro Cuvée.

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Moving north, the Naramata Bench is awash in affordable Pinots starting at Moraine and Therapy. For top-of-the-line labels, look to Martin’s Lane Naramata Ranch, Foxtrot Estate, 1 Mill Road and Howling Bluff.

Summerland and East Kelowna are similarly blessed with Lightning Rock, Haywire/Garnet Valley, and Quail’s Gate; the latter, a pioneer, is home to Richard’s Block and an outstanding Stewart Family Reserve Pinot Noir.

Across the lake, in East Kelowna and Lake Country, the future of B.C Pinot Noir is on fire. Martin’s Lane, Spearhead, Tantalus, O’Rourke Family Estate, and CedarCreek are cranking out some inspired wines exploring life north of 50 degrees latitude. The value producers are also welcomed at Kitsch, Peak Cellars, St. Hubertus and 50th Parallel. Good hunting.

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Weekend wine picks

Quails’ Gate Pinot Noir 2020, Okanagan Valley, British Columbia, Canada

$34.99 I 90/100

UPC: 778856120202

Sourced from several vineyards and a variety of clones, the 2020 regular Q.G. Pinot enjoyed a superior growing season. It was cold-soaked for five days, fermented separately on skins for 10-20 days, and pressed off to new and old French oak barrels for nine months. I like the mix of sour cherry and ripe raspberries lightly dusted in cedar. The styling is elegant and reserved, with a silky spicy finish. The winery suggests a late-season mushroom, squash risotto, seared game meats, or roasted pork with wild rice and root vegetables. Drink or hold.

Unsworth Vineyards Pinot Noir 2020, Cowichan Valley, Vancouver Island, British Columbia, Canada

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$34.90 I 92/100

UPC: 626990259008

The 2019 was very good, but this wine is better. It has that juicy, medium-weight, Island coastal Pinot Noir vibe, but in 2020 it’s a touch fleshier, giving it an extra edge in the glass. It is silky smooth on entry with wild cherry, raspberry, and a dried leaf undertow that pulls you through the wine. Saison Vineyard is the anchor Pinot Noir for this wine, providing 75 per cent of the blend. The texture and freshness of Cowichan Valley Pinot reflect its unique B.C. marine silt and glacial, fluvial, sandy loam soils. A mix of clones: 115, 667, 777, 828, and a clone whose origin is unknown, add a much-welcomed level of complexity. Little new oak completes the picture of a standout island Pinot.

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Tantalus Pinot Noir 2020, Okanagan Valley, British Columbia, Canada

$40 I 91/100

UPC: 626990067399

The allure of Tantalus is the silky slippery tannins that frame this juicy, easy-sipping Pinot. That east Kelowna plum and pepper fruit streaked with red currants and black cherries. It needs a touch of time to resolve some light but sticky tannins, but it will be hard to resist, especially if served at the dinner table. The classic or introductory label is a complex mix of estate and neighbouring vines, the latter grafted off the Tantalus estate. The clones of 114, 115, 667, 777, 828, 37, and 943 are fermented wild, block by block. The alcohol, at 13.1 per cent, has to scare other more famous regions worldwide.

Van Westen Vineyards Di Bello Wines V.D. Pinot Noir 2020, Naramata Bench, Okanagan Valley, British Columbia, Canada

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$40 I 90/100

UPC: 626990145608

2020 marks a decade of collaboration between the Van Westen and Di Bello families with the ominously named V.D. Pinot Noir. As always, the style is hedonistic, and in 2020 it remains committed to the design. Look for rich black fruit mixed with red fruit streaks and a touch of umami. Sonoma north style with silky but textured black fruit, floral violet notes, earthy raspberry, black cherry, and Okanagan freshness. Drink or hold  The Pommard clone fruit is grown at Granite Ridge Vineyard and aged in French oak barrels for nine months. Stronger-flavoured Chinese dishes like duck, pork belly, or salmon/soy dishes work here.

Stag’s Hollow Renaissance Pinot Noir 2020, Okanagan Falls, Okanagan Valley, British Columbia, Canada

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$42 I 91/100

UPC: 626990025931

Only the best lots at Stag’s Hollow end up in the Renaissance labels, and Rennaisance has only been made eight times in the last 24 years. The Pinot comes from the Shuttleworth Creek property. Two-thirds of the wine involves clones 667 and 115, but according to winemaker Amber Pratt, it is the Pommard clone that completes the wine and gives it its raison d’etre. I love the elegance here, given the intense, juicy, dark cherry and plentiful baking spice. It has a sense of calm and place, suggesting that it is unique and part of the Pinot Noir renaissance in B.C. — a perfect turkey wine that would be equally happy with most mushroom dishes.

Recipe match: Ceviche blanco

Created by Chef Olivier Le Calvez of the buzzy Toronto restaurant Casa Madera, this dish celebrates fresh fish — in this case striped bass — pairing it with elements of citrus and pepper. Simple to prepare, this dish is sure to delight.

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Casa Madera Ceviche blanco

4 oz (114 g) striped bass cut in cubes 1×1 cm

1 oz (28 g) cucumber, diced and peeled

1/2 oz (14 g) red onion, sliced 

3 segments grapefruit

1/2 tsp (2.5 mL) pepitas

3 slices habanero pepper 

1/2 tsp (2.5 mL) cilantro chopped

3 pieces edible flowers 

3 oz (86 g) ceviche base

Pinch of salt

Ceviche base

4 oz (115 mL) lemon juice

4 oz (115 mL) lime juice

4 oz (115 mL) orange juice

1 tsp (5 mL) yellow panca paste (Peruvian pepper)

1/4 tsp (1 mL) salt kosher 

Cut the striped bass in one-centimetre cubes. Cut the remaining ingredients as noted in the ingredient list. Mix the ceviche base in a bowl until salt is diluted. Add all the ingredients to the mix and let marinate for a few minutes. Place in plate or bowl, depending on preference. Garnish with edible flowers and a pinch of salt. 

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Serves two. 

Recipe Match

Ceviche is always a challenge. It is raw (or lightly blanched) fish and shellfish “cooked” in an acidic juice that can be a nightmare to match with wine. A just off-dry Riesling is the match. 

Wild Goose Riesling 2020, Okanagan Valley, British Columbia, Canada ($23)

A juicy affair packed with lime juice, fragrant flower blossoms, and perfect acidity. The attack is fresh but round and easy to sip. An ideal happy hour style with just enough sweetness to take on spice in an appetizer. Ready to drink and good value too.

Spearhead Riesling 2021, Okanagan Valley, British Columbia, Canada ($22)

Look for floral red apple and honeydew with candied lemon and sweet vanilla through the finish. A bump of residual balanced by acidity still allows for a chance to sip this solo on the patio or to be served with a favourite spicy sushi roll.