Anthony Gismondi: Last-minute wine picks for Christmas dinner

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I know what you’re thinking: Why do I have to be in charge of buying the wines for Christmas dinner — and why did I wait so long to get the job done?

All we can say is that shopping for wine is far easier than preparing a meal. So relax, we are here to help with up-to-the-last-minute picks that are most likely still available in B.C. liquor stores and private wine shops.

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But this is it. It would be best if you shopped today — there can be no more procrastination. Our suggestions should be widely available, and each is designed to stand up to the array of food and palates it will face during the big meal.

This year, we are offering a chance to buy high or low, whatever suits your budget, and we are going to do our best to pair a B.C. wine with an international wine for the big dinner. But there is no hiding that, in most cases, the bargains are in the international aisles. It behooves you to experiment with both, if only to keep all wine prices in check.

Chardonnay remains the No. 1 selling white varietal wine, and it’s an excellent match with turkey and ham, so it has to be on your list.

Our import choice is Louis Latour Mâcon-Lugny Les Genièvres, Burgundy, France ($39.99). You can pair it alongside the Giant Steps Chardonnay, Yarra Valley, Australia ($42.99). For a pair of less expensive options, look to the Bonterra Organic Chardonnay, Calif. ($19.99) or the Quails’ Gate Chardonnay, Okanagan Valley, B.C. ($26.99).

The do-something-different-crowd might enjoy the underrated Wild Goose Gewurztraminer, Okanagan Valley, B.C. ($17.99) versus the Valckenberg Riesling Pfalz ($25.99). Or the Laurenz V. Und Sophie Singing Grüner Veltliner, Austria ($21.49) versus the Barter Bros. Riesling Gruner Veltliner, Okanagan Valley ($29.99). If you can’t resist rosé, two fun picks are the giveaway litre bottle bargain Paul Mas Côté Mas Rosé Aurore, Sud de France ($16.99) or a delicious new Mouton Cadet Rosé, Bordeaux, France ($21.99).

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Riesling is the smart wine choice for dinners full of multi-flavours — the problem is choosing only two. Our German bargain pick is the super fresh and crunchy Selbach Riesling, Mosel, Germany ($22.99). Our hometown pick is Tantalus Riesling, East Kelowna Slopes ($30.99), a delicious mix of lemon and green apples with juicy, mouthwatering lime and pink grapefruit. Should you want to splurge, reach for the Joh. Jos. Prum Graacher Himmelreich 2018 Riesling Spatlese ($88.99) for ham or turkey.

Pinot Noir is a good match for turkey, or even better if you serve salmon. The standard is Burgundy, but the price for Burgundy makes little sense anymore unless you have money to burn. You can do far better elsewhere. From the Okanagan, we like the Tantalus 2021 Pinot Noir, East Kelowna ($35.99). From Monterey, a solid performer is La Crema Pinot Noir ($28.99). A big step up is the juicy, full-flavoured Giant Steps Pinot Noir, Yarra Valley, Australia ($43.99).

If beef is on the menu, a young merlot would be a solid match and the best values in the market are local. You will love any of the following, especially if you can decant it for three to 45 minutes before serving: Mission Hill 2018 Reserve Merlot ($30.99); Poplar Grove 2020 Merlot ($33.99); Painted Rock Merlot ($53.99); LaStella Maestoso ($90.99) and, should you have any billionaire friends, The Masetto 2020 at $1,060 would make for a magical evening.

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The big freeze has devastated most of the B.C. Syrah vineyards, so this might be your last chance to serve it for a few years until the vines recover. You will find a few offerings in BCL stores, including these favourites: Hester Creek Syrah, Golden Mile Bench ($27.49); Black Sage Vineyard Syrah, Black Sage Bench ($32.99); Tightrope Vineyard Syrah, Naramata Bench ($39.99); Clos du Soleil Syrah, Similkameen ($38.99); Burrowing Owl Syrah Black Sage Bench ($44.99) and the Phantom Creek Kobau Vineyard Syrah, Golden Mile Bench ($63.99).

That should get you through dinner, but truth be told, any of these selections would work at any gathering you are planning over the holidays and beyond.

Happy holidays, and stay safe. It is a privilege to share this wine page with you every week.

Weekend Wine Picks

Monte del Frá Ca del Magro Custoza Superiore 2019, Verona, Veneto, Italy

$21.99 I 89/100

UPC: 838547000050

Monte del Fra is located in Custoza, Veneto, in northeast Italy, just outside Lake Garda. The current winery was founded in 1958, but the land it sits on was auctioned off by decree from Napoleon Bonaparte in the early 19th Century, right out of the hands of its original owners, the local monks. This is a richer style, honeyed, floral white wine grown at the 60+-year-old Ca’ del Magro vineyard. In the blend is 40 per cent garganega, with trebbiano Toscano, tocai friulano, cortese, chardonnay, riesling italico, malvasia and incrocio manzoni backfilling the rest. Quince, ripe pear, yellow apples and honeysuckle rule with a hint of spice. It’s a holiday stunner bottled under a screwcap.

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Michele Chiarlo Gavi le Marne 2022, Gavi, Piedmont, Italy

$24.99 I 90/100

UPC: 80023650020

Gavi le Marne is only sold in private wine stores but is worth the hunt. Please don’t ask me why it’s not in government stores where it might sell for under $20. That, as usual, is another story. The cortese grapes are native fermented in stainless steel and aged three to four months on its lees. The result is a refreshing white with bright flowers and almonds on the nose. The palate mixes ripe golden apples, citrus and warm bread; the finish is savoury and lean. Spaghetti vongole is the match.

Murphy-Goode Pinot Noir 2020, California, United States

$26.99 I 88/100

UPC: 083722023489

This pinot noir comes from the coastal California vineyards of Sonoma County, Mendocino, Arroyo Seco, Santa Maria Valley and Monterey County. The cooler sites and heightened acidity levels keep the wine fresh. It’s aged eight months in French and American oak (only four percent is new), adding some vanilla but mostly helping to expand the soft, round, earthy, cran-cherry fruit with a dash of spice. Ready to drink with simple foods, like a pulled pork sandwich.

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Argiano Non Confunditur NC Rosso Toscano Cabernet Sauvignon – Merlot – Sangiovese 2021, Tuscany, Italy

$29.99 I 90/100

UPC: 8022931509218

Non-Confunditur, or “not to be confused or unique,” is on the Argiano family crest. In many ways, it describes the direction of winemaker Bernardino Sani, who makes this Super Tuscan blend of cabernet sauvignon, merlot and sangiovese. Its softness and roundness pull you into the glass, offering savoury wild notes of sage and violets mixed with juicy blueberry black raspberry, with a stony mineral underside. Long, ripe and sweet spiced, this wine overdelivers right now. We loved this wine with a plate of grilled sausages or dry hard cheeses. There is significant value here.

Rocca di Montegrossi Ridolfo 2017, Tuscany, Italy

$235.99 (1.5 litre) I 93/100

UPC: 803295663086

There are a few magnums (1500 ml) of the unusual Ridolfo red from Tuscany at the Park Royal, Bute and Alberni or 39th and Cambie flagship BCL stores. I suggest it for Christmas dinner or a last-minute super-gift for wine drinkers. Ridolfo is a rare blend of 50/50 cabernet sauvignon and pugnitello, the latter a local, small bunch Tuscan variety yielding low amounts of juice, but when mixed with cabernet sauvignon, its rusticity takes on the linear cabernet structure, creating a delicious red. Tasted from magnum, this is a wine full of power and super Tuscan-like structure and complexity. Dry, round and full of subtle black cherry and dried plums, it has a persistent long finish spiked with pepper. This wine is at home with bistecca alla Fiorentina or spaghetti and meatballs but, as mentioned, Christmas dinner with friends works, too.

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