Anthony Gismondi: North Okanagan starting to shine as a wine producing region

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It’s been an outstanding year for two British Columbia wineries that took home big awards at the WineAlign National Wine Awards of Canada. CedarCreek Estate was named Canada’s Winery of the Year, while Spearhead Winery captured the award for The Best Performing Small Winery in Canada, producing less than 10.000 cases.

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So, could this be the end of Oliver’s reign as the medal-winning Wine Capital of Canada? It is not likely, but it is a harbinger of a rising north Okanagan from Kelowna east, west and south to Lake Country, Vernon.

Getting to the top of any competition is never easy, but it is hardly new at CedarCreek, winners in 2002 and 2005. However, it would be another three years before Spearhead majority owners Bill Knutson and Marina Knutson would plant their first vineyard in 2008.

“It was our ambition was to create a small winery that would become known for quality. With that in mind, we were proud to be named Best New Winery in 2012 at the B.C. Wine Awards, and now, 10 years later, we are ecstatic to be called The Best Performing Small Winery at The Nationals,” said Bill Knutson.

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CedarCreek (née Uniacke) opened in 1980 before the Fitzpatrick family purchased it in 1986. Some 36 years later, the Lakeshore Road winery on the east side of Okanagan Lake is thriving under its latest owner, Anthony von Mandl and his stable of B.C. wineries that operate under the Iconic Wineries of B.C. brand. While the group profits from sharing many resources, wisely, von Mandl leaves the most critical decisions about wine to his wineries, and they are all thriving.

Both wineries boast highly competent and confident winemakers, two ingredients vital to making high-quality wines.

At Spearhead winemaker, Grant Stanley is highly focused on Pinot Noir, and each year he releases several versions based on individual vineyard sites and clones. Stanley is on a mission to explore the many terroirs of the Okanagan. SpearHead makes three single-vineyard Pinot Noirs, a Pinot Noir Cuvee that combines fruit from the three, and a Club Consensus Pinot blend assembled by wine club members each year after a barrel tasting.

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It wasn’t only Pinot Noir that led to Spearhead’s success at the Nationals. The SpearHead 2020 Saddle Block Chardonnay and SpearHead 2019 Botrytis Affected Late Harvest Riesling carted off gold medals. In my estimation, the Riesling and Pinot Gris labels are nearly at the same level. The winery is open for tastings, but appointments are strongly recommended. There is some patio seating with small bites served, but it is best to call ahead.

Winemaker Taylor Whelan, a graduate of Brock University, has worked at CedarCreek since 2011, with stops in Tasmania and Australia along the way. Since 2017 he has worked around the renovations of the vineyards and production facility (now underground), followed by a multi-year build of a mini-village of three spectacular Euro-style buildings to host luxury guest experiences in a new Tasting Salon, a member-exclusive Aspect House, and an on-site highly lauded Home Block Restaurant.

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For his part, Whelan quietly makes wines that explore the diversity of the North Okanagan. As of 2021, all vineyards are Ecocert certified organic. Whelan pursues natural paths from certified organic yeast to wild ferments, wild malolactic fermentation, and wines bottled unfined and unfiltered. Food waste from the restaurant goes to the compost. There are cattle in the vineyard, the wastewater is treated and reused on-site, and waste glass is crushed on site and spread on the roads with sand in the winter.

Whelan’s focus on single block wines brought home a Platinum medal for the 2019 Aspect Collection Block 5 Chardonnay and gold for the 2020 Aspect Collection Block 3 Riesling, the 2020 Jagged Rock Chardonnay Platinum Series, and the 2021 Pinot Noir Rosé. He also grabbed platinum for his 2020 Jagged Rock Syrah, a wine that should worry the Rhone Valley.

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What is really scary is Whelan and Stanley are only getting started. As they set their sights on working in the cool north Okanagan and beyond, the story of B.C. Pinot Noir, Chardonnay and Riesling are sure to attract worldwide attention as their move onto the world wine stage continues apace.

Weekend Wine Picks

Spearhead Riesling 2021, Okanagan Valley, British Columbia, Canada 

$22 I 88/100

UPC: 626990441328

Expect a classic edition Riesling all hand harvested from Seven Mountain Vineyards in West Kelowna and the southeast Kelowna estate. Look for floral red apple and honeydew with candied lemon and sweet vanilla through the finish. A bump of residual balanced by acidity allows the possibility to sip this solo on the patio or to be served with a favourite spicy sushi roll. Good value.

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Sandhill Sangiovese Rosé Block No C9 2021, Okanagan Valley, British Columbia, Canada 

$30 I 90/100

UPC: 058976503148

I fell in love with the Italian version of Sangiovese Rosé last week, and this effort by Sandhill is also a keeper. I love the pale peach colour and the delicate fruit nuances mixing grapefruit, fresh red berries, watermelon, and sea salt. Lovely styling and balance; it was perfect with fresh cream cheese. Pricey, but worth buying direct.

El Petit Bonhomme Tinto Monastrell — Garnacha — Syrah 2020, Jumilla, Valencia and Murcia, Spain

$17.99 I 88/100

UPC: 8437005068711

El Petit Bonhomme is a Jumilla blend hand harvested and fermented for two weeks in small stainless steel vats. The malolactic fermentation was in 225L French oak barrels for the Monastrell and Syrah and in 300L American oak for the Garnacha — the total aging is six months. It might be the best yet for this 55/30/15 bush vine mix. Look for plump red fruit served without makeup. Finally, an authentic country red you can pour for people who love wine.

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Finca La Linda Private Selection Old Vines Malbec 2019, Maipú, Northern Region, Mendoza, Argentina 

$17.49 I 88/100

UPC: 7791203001675

For the price, and now the marked-down price this well-made, basic Malbec over-delivers. The vineyards sit at 950m in Maipú and Luján de Cuyo, and a portion of the wine ages eight months in American oak. Soft, plush blackberry and cherry with a dusting of baking spices, this is juicy and ready to go with almost anything off the barbecue.

Amalaya Malbec 2020, Calchaqui Valley, Salta, North, Argentina 

$21.99 I 90/100

UPC: 7798104763039

The easy-to-spot blue label is the go signal if you like buying quality wine at a bargain price. Amalaya, under screwcap, is an alluring mix of red and black fruits with a dusty, stony mineral underside. Wonderfully dry and fresh, the palate is juicy and round; the tannins are light but structured. The esperanza por un milagro (waiting for a miracle) Amalaya is grown at some of the world’s highest vineyards topping 1,800 meters. It is mostly Malbec mixed with 15 per cent Tannat and Petit Verdot. It remains an absolute bargain at $21.99. Back up the truck.

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Recipe match: Warm kale salad

2 tbsp (30 mL) vegetable oil

12 oz (350 g) halved baby potatoes

12 oz (350 g) halved Brussels sprouts

1 cup (250 mL) brown butter vinaigrette (recipe follows)

1/2 lb (225 g) black kale

2 oz (57 g) grated Parmesan cheese, divided

2 oz (57 g) toasted sliced almonds

2 oz (57 g) dried cranberries, for garnish

Pickled red onions, for garnish

Preheat the oven to 400°F (200°C). Toss the vegetable oil, potatoes and Brussels sprouts together in a large mixing bowl until evenly coated. Place the vegetables on a baking sheet, cut side down.

Bake for approximately 17 minutes. Remove from the oven and drizzle the brown butter vinaigrette evenly over the vegetables. Return to the oven for an additional 3 minutes, or until the potatoes are golden and the vinaigrette is bubbling.

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Meanwhile, remove the spine from the kale and slice into bite-sized pieces. Combine the kale, half the Parmesan and the almonds in a large mixing bowl.

Once the vegetables are cooked, remove from the oven and immediately transfer to the mixing bowl with the kale, Parmesan and almonds (be sure to include any excess vinaigrette from the pan!). It is important that the hot ingredients contact the kale quickly to soften the kale.

Mix everything together vigorously, making sure that the warm vinaigrette gets into the grooves of the kale. Garnish with the dried cranberries, pickled red onions and the remaining Parmesan and serve immediately.

Serves 4-6. 

Brown butter vinaigrette

1/2 cup (125 mL) butter

1 tbsp (15 mL) heavy cream

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1/2 tsp (2.5 mL) ground black pepper

1/3 cup (80 mL) freshly squeezed lemon juice

1/4 cup (60 mL) 2% milk

1/4 cup (60 mL) vegetable oil

Place the butter in a small pot over medium heat until it begins to separate and the solids caramelize to golden brown. The foam should almost be gone. Carefully add the cream and pepper, and cook until the cream splits and the solids have caramelized to golden brown. The cream will boil vigorously when added. Add the lemon juice and bring to a simmer. Add the milk and bring to a simmer. Remove from the heat and set aside until it is cool to the touch. Place the cooled mixture in a blender with the oil and blend until smooth.

Excerpted from Earls The Cookbook; Anniversary Edition by Earls Restaurants Ltd. Copyright © 2022 Earls Restaurants Ltd. Photography by John Sherlock with additional images by David Strongman, Clinton Hussey, Galdones Photography, Janis Nicolay, Ian Lanterman, Jamie Anholt, Chris Amat, Alison Page and Issha Marie and Karolina Turek. Published by Appetite by Random House®, a division of Penguin Random House Canada Limited. Reproduced by arrangement with the Publisher. All rights reserved.

Recipe match

All a warm kale salad needs is a squeeze of lemon, which is easily accomplished with any bright white wine.

Clos du Soleil Fumé Blanc 2021, Oliver, Okanagan Valley, British Columbia, Canada $23.90

The attack is refreshingly green apple, lemon, and white grapefruit with an oily, leesy undercurrent and a salty grapefruit pith. Salad anyone?

Di Lenardo Pinot Grigio Monovitigno 2020, Friuli-Venezia Giulia, Italy $19.99 

I love this consistently clean, bright style boasting honey, baked apples, citrus, quince, and almond with a dusting of floral minerality in the finish.