Anthony Gismondi: Okanagan wine country experiencing many changes this year

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Ten days from spring, vines across the Okanagan Valley are about to come to life. After 2021, it’s hard to know what to expect in 2022, but as the COVID-19 pandemic wains and the urge to travel increases, I wanted to share a few of the many changes that will impact the Okanagan this year.

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Osoyoos Larose is still without a winery to visit, but it has a new president and commercial director in Raphael Merlaut. Merlaut is a part of the family that owns Groupe Taillan. His presence should ensure the Oliver operation doesn’t miss a beat improve its international profile, all while they seek a permanent home to make wine twenty-three years after arriving in B.C.

The Red Barn at Jagged Rock is set to make a big splash in 2022 on the strength of one of the most impressive first-time releases I have tasted in B.C. The bright Red Barn has been visible for years on the north end of the Black Sage Bench, but it was only a building used by Mission Hill to entertain guests or escape the heat of a midsummer day. Today it is a hip, concrete-focused producer of stylish, high-end wines, so far only available online. It is another Anthony von Mandl creation and still a bit of a moving target, but the first wines are well worth checking out.

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Interestingly, Argentine-born Leandro Nosal, who made the aforementioned first wines at the Red Barn, and assisted Phil McGahan at Checkmate Artisanal Winery before that, has moved west and north across the valley to the Golden Mile Bench to head up the winemaking at Tinhorn Creek. Nosal has a big fan in Ross Wise MW, senior winemaker for Andrew Peller’s South Okanagan estates, including Tinhorn. There is no doubt his coming-out party will be in 2022 as he tweaks the Tinhorn wines adding a much-needed hit of electricity to the mix.

Nosal has an agricultural engineering degree from Universidad Nacional de Cuyo in Mendoza, and a master of science in viticulture and oenology, from studying abroad in Montpellier and Torino. In addition, he was awarded the Erasmus Mundus Scholarship during his masters studies — a highly sought-after award from the European Commission. Make sure you return to Tinhorn this summer for an update.

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Meanwhile, Blasted Church Vineyards, overlooking the Skaha Bench, turns 20 this year, coming off a spectacular 2021 showing at the WineAlign National Wine Awards of Canada. The winery ranked second among all B.C. producers and third in Canada, grabbing a stunning 24 medals, including two platinum, six gold, five silver, and 11 bronze under winemaker Evan Saunders, viticulturist John Bayley and general manager Tanya Martin — and there is more.

The property is getting a much-needed, revamped visitor experience under the capable hands of former Front Street Brasserie owners Lisa Baxter Burke and chef John Burke. The pair has a long history of food and wine experience and a broad audience that will undoubtedly follow them to Blasted Church, where entertaining visitors and club members is about to get fun big time.

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The plan is to make the most of the setting atop the Skaha Bluffs and launch an ever-changing selection of innovative and delicious BBQ snacks perfectly paired with the wines of Blasted Church.

In addition, the winery’s lower patio and pool deck will become a new seasonal gathering area. BBQ snacks will be offered to those looking to enjoy a poolside sip by the glass complete with sunshine. Also in the works are plans for cooking demos, “Family Dinners,” and all the event spaces will be available for private parties in the fall and winter months.

As the pandemic fades into the background, for now, B.C. wine country is preparing for a season like no other, with surprises at the end of every road that leads to a winery. So make your reservations early if you want to be a part of the fun.

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Weekend wine picks 

Ferrari Brut Metodo Classico N/V, Trento, Trentino- Alto-Adige, Italy

$32.99 I 91/100

UPC: 8007355006017

Selected Chardonnay plots, all hand-picked across Trento’s province, is the source of this tasty Brut — made for the last 118 years. Clean, fresh and leesy, with light oven-fresh brioche notes kicking off a stylish fizz that brings green apple, honey, and almonds to the nose and palate. The simplicity and complexity seal the deal here. Finally, the packaging is a master class in simplicity. If you plan to celebrate something this month, consider doing it with this blanc de blancs par excellence.

Famiglia Pasqua Passion e Sentimento Veneto Rosso 2017, Veneto, Italy

$15.99 I 88/100

UPC: 8007880140200

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Passion e Sentimento is dedicated to Verona, the City of Love. The label tells the famous love story of Romeo and Juliet, which lives on today through the messages left daily at Juliet’s house on Verona’s Cappello Street. This rosso is a 40/30/30 blend of Merlot, Corvina, and Croatina, hand-harvested and dried for one month into wooden trays. The subsequent loss of water content concentrates the grape sugars. Add a high percentage of Merlot and dried grapes, and the wine has immediate curbside appeal and drinkability. The style is fresh red cherry-berry with pleasantly spicy, soft tannins. A perfect red for spaghetti and meatballs — super value.

Carmen Gran Reserva Cabernet Sauvignon 2018, Valle del Maipo, Region del Valle Central, Chile

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$22 | 90/100

UPC: 00083300097512

If you haven’t tried a Chilean Cabernet in some time, this label is a fine place to begin. Intense, dark, and full-bodied, it is stuffed full of boldo, the Chilean equivalent of garrigue. The attack is warm and round, the tannins slippery, the fruit a mix of blackberries and brambleberries with resiny, cedar, and tobacco flecks throughout. Ready to drink but will hold through 2027. Think grilled beef or rich winter vegetable dishes.

Clos du Soleil Célestiale 2019, British Columbia, Canada

$27.90 I 92/100

UPC: 857088000794

They like Bordeaux blends at Clos du Soleil, but this wine is miles beyond any $28 Bordeaux red in the market. It is an all-Similkameen red blending 71/11/9/7/2 Merlot/Malbec/Cabernet Sauvignon/Cabernet Franc/Petit Verdot. With a majority of Merlot leading the mix, it is all about elegance and texture that draws you back to the wine, glass after glass. It smells like a raspberry/blackberry pie and tastes as you might expect, with fresh red fruit backed up by dark chocolate black fruit that melts in your mouth. The finish is savoury with a touch of sagebrush and wild Similkameen notes that only add to its appeal. Post ferment, all done in concrete, it’s aged in French oak barrels for 15 months. It was bottled under a screwcap after a final cull of the best barrels. Unfortunately, the winery is already sold out, so you will have to look to private wine shops and restaurants to taste this one.

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Frescobaldi Castello di Nipozzano Mormoreto 2016, Tuscany, Italy

$63.99 I 94/100

UPC: 8007425151708

Mormoreto is the flagship label at Castello di Nipozzano is grown on the 25-hectare Mormoreto Vineyard rich in sand and well-drained with a heavy presence of limestone and clay planted in 1976. The blend is an 84/26/5/5 Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Petit Verdot and Merlot grapes, harvested by hand. The colour is ruby red with a darkish edge. The nose is expressive with blueberries, black cherries, black olives, tea and balsamic notes flecked with mint and spice. The palate is silky smooth with dense, sweet tannins and a long persistent, classy finish. It is a terrific vintage and a wine that will age effortlessly for 10 to 15 years and beyond.

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Recipe match: Yellow Daal with Wagharni

Created by vegan chef and cookbook author Priyanka Naik for Our Place, this flavourful dish is inspired by Naik’s “Maharashtrian roots.” While it can be enjoyed any way one pleases, the celebrated chef says it’s a dish that is “meant to be eaten with your hands.”

Yellow Daal with Wagharni

1 cup (250 mL) yellow toor daal (split pigeon peas), rinsed and soaked for 30 mins

2 1/2 cups (750 mL) water

2 cloves garlic peeled

1 piece ginger peeled and cut into rough cubes

1 tsp (5 mL) kosher salt

1 tsp (5 mL) turmeric

1 can chickpeas, drained and rinsed

1 stem of curry leaves

3-4 Indian green chilies, sliced lengthwise

1 tsp (5 mL) cumin seeds

1/2 tsp (2.5 mL) hing

3-4 tbsp (45-60 mL) neutral oil

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1/2 fresh lime

1/2 cup (125 mL) fresh coriander roughly chopped

1/2 cup (125 mL) basmati rice, rinsed and soaked for 30 mins

1 1/2 (375 mL) cups water

Pinch of salt (for rice)

Pour rinsed and soaked daal in the Perfect Pot. Add in the water, garlic, ginger, turmeric and salt. Place over medium heat and bring to a bowl.

Once boiling, reduce heat to a simmer and cover. Simmer for about 45 minutes, occasionally opening to stir and skim off any foam.

Once the daal is tender, creamy and cooked through, add in the chickpea and cook for 5 minutes.

While the daal is simmering away, make the rice using the Always Pan. Add in the rinsed and soaked rice, water and salt. Stir and bring to a boil over medium heat. Reduce to a simmer and cover. Ensure the lid is pointed so steam can release. Cook for about 15-20 minutes or until water has evaporated and rice is fluffy.

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To make the wagharni (which just means tempered spices) pour a neutral oil into a small saucepan and set over medium heat.

After about 30-60 seconds, once the oil is hot and shimmering, add in the cumin seeds, allow to sizzle for 15-30 seconds. Then carefully add in the sliced green chilies, swirl around. Next, stand back and add in the curry leaves. Be careful because these will pop! Once popping has subsided, add in the hing, swirl and immediately add the hot-tempered spices to the daal and stir to combine.

Finish off by squeezing 1/4 of lime into the daal and half of the fresh coriander. Taste and adjust for salt if necessary.

Place rice onto a plate and top with daal. Garnish with more fresh coriander and a lime wedge.

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Serves 2-4.

Recipe match

The pairing issue with Indian food is creating balance with the wine. The best picks are moderately sweet to deal with the spice or savoury and earthy to take on richer flavours.

Chronos Riesling 2020, Okanagan Valley, British Columbia, Canada $27.99

The nose is Alsace floral with Honeycrisp apple medium-dry flavours with bits of lime and mineral earthy notes. A solid gastronomic wine that will subdue this classic Indian dish.

Sumac Ridge Gewürztraminer Private Reserve 2020, Okanagan Valley, British Columbia, Canada $10.45

The attack is fresh and spicy with sweet orange, a touch of ginger and a solid bump of residual sugar that will cool down any spicy dish with style.