Anthony Gismondi: Signorello Estate has bounced back nicely from 2017 wildfires

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The California Wine Fair returned to Vancouver last week.

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It was gratifying to see proprietor Ray Signorello, who lives halftime in Vancouver, back behind his booth pouring the latest Signorello wines five years after his south Silverado Trail winery fell victim to the 2017 Atlas Peak/Napa wildfires. The fire wiped out his winery and home in a matter of moments, leaving only the vineyard intact.

Signorello Estate became the face of the devastating 2017 wildfires, but the family was hardly down long. Three days after the fire, Ray Jr. announced they would reopen in a trailer and rebuild, and nearly five years down the road, he remains optimistic the winery will be back on track in 2023.

It took three years to navigate a so-called expedited permit process, and the winery is still at least a year away from opening. Still, Signorello is rising from the ashes with a new plan and direction for his ultra-premium Napa winery. The new facility will be a modern, state-of-the-art building that capitalizes on the stunning views looking west across Napa Valley, described as “an open, airy design approach to our new winery, hospitality centre and cave facilities.”

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Much of the concrete structure will be underground to be fully protected and fireproof to work around the current challenge of getting insurance in wine country.

Although the vineyard was untouched, Signorello isn’t standing still. He will drop some wines from the portfolio, led by his regular Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon. He says the costs of everything in Napa make it impossible to produce high-quality in the $50 to $75 range. So to help him reach his goals, Signorello has put together a new team led by star winemaker Priyanka French (ex-Dalle Valle), responsible for the subtle style changes, well-known consulting director of winemaking Celia Welch and veteran viticulturist Steve Mathaisson.

The plan is to take the flagship Cabernet Sauvignon Padrone to another level while increasing its volume. Hope’s Cuvée Chardonnay will join Padrone as the only Signorello estate wines. In addition, a new label, ‘S’ by Ray Signorello, will come from fruit selected by French that grows off-site on Howell Mountain, St Helena and Rutherford dirt. French has an eye for detail, making her the perfect choice for the fastidious Signorello to reach that final mile. Much of the attention will be focused on tannins and balance, the last frontier to take Padrone, Hope’s Cuvée and S to new levels.

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Signorello has been innovative at all price points, which won’t change. One of the significant advantages of getting someone as talented as Priyanka French is what she can do to tweak Signorellos’ other more commercial ventures, Trim and Edge, which are already well above most California offerings when it comes to style and quality.

The latest Trim offerings ($25-$30), a 2018 Cabernet Sauvignon and a 2019 Chardonnay are made without additives. They don’t add sugar, concentrate, colouring, or anything else that shouldn’t be there.

As Ray Signorello says, “We believe in winemaking, not winefaking, and we are transparent about this.”

The latest 2018 Edge Cabernet Sauvignon $39.99, available in government stores, is a wine that spreads the wealth to all levels. It is a stylish entry-level premium cabernet rich in spice, black fruits, licorice, figs and supple tannins. You can feel the Signorello style — more finesse, less oomph — and you get the impression you can wait on this wine for another five to seven-year — a perfect weekend steak wine that will impress your guests.

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S by Signorello 2019 is a sensational new label, in my estimation, that speaks to the influence and direction of winemaker Prianka French. It’s all Napa, but the silky textures suggest a subtlety and length that will live forever. It will retail in private shops from $100 to $125.

Signorello will be one of a handful of proprietors at the upcoming Vancouver International Wine Festival. You should drop by the booth, say hello and taste the wines with the maestro. You won’t be disappointed.

Weekend wine picks 

Trim Chardonnay 2019, California, United States

$20-$24 I 88/100

UPC: 752830952119

You don’t see Ray Signorello’s name on this label, but his Napa team is responsible for this California white, one of only two wines made under the Trim label. The Trim wines are made without additives. They don’t add sugar, concentrate, colouring, or anything else that shouldn’t be there. As Ray Signorello says, “We believe in winemaking, not winefaking, and we are transparent about this.” The Chardonnay opens with an apple honey nectarine note streaked with citrus almond and vanilla. Bright and refreshing, it is more next world, mixing bright acidity, peach, apple butter and fresh bread — a wine that will brighten any lunch.

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Trim Cabernet Sauvignon 2018, California, United States

$20-$24 I 89/100

UPC: 752183270915

You don’t see Ray Signorello’s name on this label either, but his Napa team is responsible for this California red that is drier and trimmer than most other wines that play at this price point. The fruit is juicy and pure with intense cassis and black cherry fruit with savoury licorice notes, a hint of black tea inviting vanilla notes. It is an introductory wine, but it is for wine drinkers, not influencers. Anything grilled on the barbecue will be set free at the dinner table. Well priced but in private wine shops only.

Edge Cabernet Sauvignon 2018, Napa Valley, California, United States

$39.99 I 91/100

UPC: 752183274029

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The 2018 Edge fruit is sourced exclusively from premium Alexander Valley vineyards. The mix is 91/9 Cabernet Sauvignon and Petite Sirah. It spends 16 months in 50 per cent new French oak barrels. The style is savoury Sonoma/Alexander Valley with some subtle Napa polish. It is a stylish entry-level premium cabernet rich in spice, black fruits, licorice, figs and supple tannins. You can feel the Signorello style, more finesse, less oomph, and you get the impression you can wait on this wine for another five to seven-years — a perfect weekend steak wine that will impress your guests.

Maverick Estate Winery Bush Vine Syrah 2019, Okanagan Valley, British Columbia, Canada

$29.95 I 92/100

UPC: 626990140450

This Syrah won a platinum medal at Canada’s 2021 National Wine Awards, and it easily lives up to the hype. The fruit is pure and vibrant, with a balanced ripeness that clocks in at just 13 per cent ABV. However, what sets it apart is the expressive aromatics, with perfumed violets and savoury spices, nicely accented by integrated wood. It’s the real deal and impressively structured and sophisticated, too. It is tempting to compare this to the Northern Rhône, but that could sell it short. Okanagan Syrah, made like this, can stand on its own at a fraction of the price — highly recommended.

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Roederer Estate Brut Rosé, Anderson Valley, Mendocino County, California, United States

$58.99 I 91/100

UPC: 097546182000

It’s been a while, but I’m always surprised by its bright, lively character when I come back to this wine. The Roederer connection significantly affects this multi-vintage blend of 56/44 Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. The light salmon colour springs from a small portion of Pinot Noir (3-5 per cent) with extended maceration added to the blend before the secondary fermentation in the bottle. In addition, a small amount of oak-aged reserve juice adds another layer of complexity. Expect fresh red fruit with precision bubble work and elegance galore. At 11 grams per litre of residual sugar, it has an added charm for some. It is also food-friendly and ready to go. It is sold in select private wine shops only.

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Recipe match: B.C. blueberry lemon and ricotta toast

Add a sweet touch to your mornings with this recipe from the B.C. Blueberry Council. Featuring frozen B.C. blueberries — fresh blueberry season kicks off in July — this simple recipe sees rich ricotta cheese and sweet, sticky honey served on toast for a memorable bite that can be enjoyed at pretty much any time of the day:

B.C. Blueberry Lemon and Ricotta Toast

1 cup (250 mL) ricotta cheese

1/2 cup (125 mL) frozen B.C. blueberries

1 tbsp (15 mL) milk

Zest of 1 lemon

2 sprigs fresh thyme

1 tbsp (15 mL) honey

3 tbsp (45 mL) butter, softened

Bread for toasting

Using a stand mixer fitted with the whisk attachment, or a hand mixer, add ricotta cheese and lemon zest. Mix on medium speed. As you mix, slowly drizzle in milk and increase to high speed until well-incorporated and smooth. (You may need to scrape the sides of the bowl with a rubber spatula once or twice).

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Prepare a piping bag* fitted with a petal tip. With a rubber spatula scoop, place whipped ricotta mix into the piping bag. Cover and refrigerate for two hours or overnight.

Butter slices of bread and fry in a pan until golden. Set aside to cool slightly. Pipe chilled ricotta onto fried bread. Top with frozen B.C. blueberries, thyme, and drizzle with honey. Add some additional lemon zest for presentation. Serve immediately.

• Tip: No piping bag? No problem! You can use a re-closable sandwich bag in a pinch. Use your rubber spatula to fill one corner of the bag with the whipped ricotta. Twist the empty part of the bag around to keep a little pressure on the ricotta. Snip the corner of the bag and pipe your ricotta onto your toasted bread.

Yields two slices.

Recipe match

Blueberry Lemon and Ricotta Toast is a colourful bite, and I’m going with a sparkling rosé as the pairing. 

Evolve Pink Effervescence N/V, Okanagan Valley, British Columbia, Canada $21.99 

This tank-fermented sparkler leads with citrus and soft red berries that finish crisp and clean — so bring on the blueberry lemon ricotta toast.

Louis Bouillot Perle d’Aurore Rosé Crémant de Bourgogne N/V, Burgundy, France $27.99 

Fresh, light, bright sparkler full of cherry, berry, and grapefruit acidity. A fun patio sipper that will enhance every toast bite.