Anthony Gismondi: Similkameen Valley is a rising star among B.C. wine regions

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The COVID-19 travel restrictions lifted across the province on June 15, and like many British Columbians, I started planning for what looks like what could be a much better summer in 2021.

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My first stop for a short but intense visit would be the Similkameen Valley in the southern reaches of the B.C. interior.

For those who automatically make a beeline to the Okanagan Valley, via the Coquihalla Connector, Similkameen wine country sits further south along the scenic, lazy, Hwy 3 route between the tiny town of Keremeos and the even smaller hamlet of Cawston.

Wine freaks have been watching this unique region blossom for the last two decades. Home to the largest plantings of organic fruits and vegetables in Canada, it has all the raw ingredients to make more than special wine, and it looks as if the long wait is over. In 2021, the game is on.

Surrounded by steep, rugged, rocky, towering mountains, the vineyards are built over stony soils that have eroded down those mountainsides for millennia. The sheer beauty is stunning. Raw, natural and rugged, its complex mix of vineyard soils come by their minerality with ease. Retreating glaciers, meltwaters, floods and streams, windblown soils, alluvial fans, and well, you name the geological event, it is all in evidence across the Similkameen Valley.

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The spare soils tend to be high in calcium carbonate derived from limestone, schist or granite, another holy grail for winemakers seeking freshness and electricity in their wines. When I think of all the dead fruit flavours coming out of the worlds’ warmest sites, the complexity, elegance, and freshness of these wines seem a miracle in the making. It is even more remarkable when you consider the vineyards, at the peak of the season, can get as much as two hours more sunlight per day than the famed regions of California.

It is not uncommon for temperatures to rise above 40°C on summer days, and without a lake to moderate temperatures, nighttime temperatures can drop below 10°C. Those temperature extremes yield ripe fruit with excellent natural acidity — think of a fully ripe, crisp, crunchy apple.

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Then there is the wind. Similar to the “Mistral” in the Rhone and the “Tramontana” in northern Italy, the Similkameen boasts fierce winds capable of cleansing vineyards of dampness, pests, or diseases, preventing havoc in the vines. In addition, the lack of moisture in the vines and the soil reduces the need for frequent spraying leading to more than 40 per cent of crops being grown organically.

Finally, the meandering Similkameen River, supplying pristine water from high mountains to the west and crossing the valley just south of Cawston at the U.S. border, brings certain life to the valley.

Historically the Similkameen has a long history of supplying grapes to Okanagan wineries, but all that has changed today. Today the Similkameen by the numbers is 15 wineries, 45 vineyards, 633 acres or 5.71 per cent of all the acreage planted to grapes in B.C. The average vineyard is just over 14 acres.

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When it comes to touring the Similkameen, the wineries are all located in a fairly compact zone, making it easy to visit two or three with little stress. Add to that a relatively flat valley floor that allows for easy cycling, and the question is, why go anywhere else. As to what you can drink, currently, Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah, Gamay, Riesling, Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc and Semillon all show enormous promise in the valley.

B&B is your best bet for accommodation, or you can make the easy but spectacular drive from Osoyoos, where you have a wide choice of hotels. Don’t miss the latest addition to the Similkameen the Row Fourteen, a farm-to-table restaurant in Row 14 at Klippers Organics farm. You won’t regret a meal on the expansive wraparound patio among the orchards.

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Weekend wine picks

Orofino Vineyards Gamay Bubble 2020, Cawston, Similkameen Valley, British Columbia, Canada

$30.35 I 90/100

UPC: n/a

The casual Gamay Bubble moniker of this wine speaks to its nature but make no mistake, it is made with precision. A traditional-method fermentation sparkler, it comes off Mutch Vineyard on the Cawston Flats, just below the Orofino winery. It is naturally fermented and aged in neutral oak barrels for three months before the secondary fermentation occurs in the bottle. It is fermented dry with zero dosage (no sugar added), and only a tiny amount of sulphites are added at disgorgement. The nose wafts out the glass with fresh red berries, aromas, and the delicate scents carry over to the plate where strawberries and raspberries rule over a creamy, leesy underside. The acidity is perfect, and the message is, drink me. Order winery direct or pick up on-site. Only 139 cases produced.

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Clos du Soleil Winemaker’s Series Whispered Secret Vineyard Pinot Gris 2020, Keremeos, Similkameen Valley, British Columbia, Canada

$21.90 I 90/100

UPC: 626990344957

Organic Pinot Gris from Whispered Secret Vineyard in Keremeos is fermented in stainless steel barrels, tanks, and French oak puncheons. Like other Similkameen 2020s, it has a presence in the bottle that is almost startling, including complexity of flavours and layers that you don’t normally associate with Pinot Gris and texture, precision, power, and finesse. The finish is dry and crisp with a twist of lime pith. Serve with raw or lightly cooked shellfish, barely cooked tomato dishes or fresh goat cheese — love the price.

Rust Wine Co Lazy River Vineyard Syrah 2018, Similkameen Valley, British Columbia, Canada

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$44 I 91/100

UPC: 812289262563

The folks at Rust celebrate single vineyards with a trio of Syrah releases finished under colourful wax capsules from three different soil types. The blue wax capsule marks the Lazy River Vineyard Syrah, grown over sandy clay loamy soils flecked with limestone and granitic rock in the Similkameen Valley. A quieter, more sophisticated, floral nose greets the taster here, with no meaty or vanilla notes to cloud the issue. It is aged for 16 months in American and French oak (27 per cent new). The flavours are black and blue, the tannins are rich yet relatively benign, with a savoury, licorice and leather back end. A slightly fresher version reflects its origin in stony, windy Cawston, where cool overnight temperatures stand up to the warm growing days of July and August. Classy.

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Liber Farm & Winery Reserve Chardonnay 2017, Similkameen Valley, British Columbia, Canada

$32.99 I 89/100

UPC: n/a

The reserve Chardonnay is organically grown and produced by the hardworking Dowell family and consulting winemaker Pascal Madevon. It was aged in French oak and on its lees, giving it just enough complexity without interfering with its wild Similkameen roots. Madevon’s vast experience assures a quality bottle, while the gently sloping, west-facing, riverfront estate, once a part of the historic Mariposa site, delivers vibrant Chardonnay fruit. Look for light pear and apple flavours and a lovely mid-palate wet stone mineral lift that carries through the finish. Order winery direct or pick up at the new tasting room off Hwy 97 in Osoyoos.

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Corcelettes Cabernet Franc Corcelettes Estate Vineyard 2018, Similkameen Valley, B.C., Canada

$33.90 I 90/100

UPC: 626990231172

The Similkameen is an exciting place to grow Cabernet Franc, and the latest from Corcelettes joins the party. The nose and palate have a similar sweet black fruit character mixing black cherries, black raspberries, and licorice, with savoury, minty tobacco poking through a dense tannin finish. There is no rush to drink this one. A classic steak wine, or take with grilled vegetables in the fall and winter.

Recipe match: Loaded nacho burger

Perfect for a day of indecision, this juicy burger sees two delicious treats — nachos and hamburgers — combined in one dish. Featuring classic nacho toppings such as pico de gallo salsa, avocado and jalapeño-studded Monterey Jack cheese (optional, but encouraged) piled high on a beef patty, this recipe from the President’s Choice team truly offers a bite of both worlds.

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PC loaded nacho burgers

4 frozen PC Thick & Juicy Prime Rib Burgers

4 slices jalapeño Monterey Jack cheese (optional)

4 hamburger buns, split

1 ripe avocado, peeled, pitted and sliced

1/2 cup (125 mL) pico de gallo salsa

1/4 cup (60 mL) PC Cilantro Lime Crema (optional)

4 lettuce leaves

Vegetable oil, for grilling

Preheat barbecue to medium. Oil grill.

Cook frozen burgers, lid down, turning once, until cooked through, 10 to 12 minutes; if adding cheese, top burgers with cheese in last minute of cooking. Transfer to plate. Let stand 2 minutes. Meanwhile, add buns, cut sides down, to grill; cook until lightly charred, 1 to 2 minutes.

Place burgers on bun bottoms and top with avocado, salsa, crema and lettuce, dividing evenly. Sandwich with burger tops.

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Feeling adventurous? Add a sprinkling of crushed tortilla chips — or serve whole chips on the side.

Serves 4.

Recipe match

Burgers, cheese nachos, et al., call for carefree, inexpensive red blends.

M. Chapoutier Belleruche Côtes du Rhône Rouge 2019, Rhone Valley, France $19.99

Soft, round, medium-bodied, red and black fruits flecked with fresh pepper and Garrigue make this the ultimate burger red.

Doña Paula Estate High Altitude Malbec 2019, Gualtallary, Tupungato, Mendoza, Argentina $18.99

A bold and full-bodied red full of dense, dark fruit will easily assimilate this burger recipe’s smoke and flavours.