Anthony Gismondi: The best wines for summer

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Summer has always been a fleeting experience on the West Coast, so we must embrace it as quickly as possible before it’s gone.

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Instinctively we stash our sweaters, rain jackets and wellies for shorts, flip flops and sunscreen, but when it comes to wine we seem reluctant to jettison the Cabernets and Chardonnays for something lighter and fresher. So today, we take the time to look at some summer classics built more for refreshment and fun than contemplation.

We begin with Vinho Verde, a classic Portuguese white wine. Often dismissed as a simple white wine, it is the ultimate summer sipper, complete with green (Verde) melon, nutty mineral aromas and zesty fruit flavours with a hint of spritz. If you have forgotten this wine or perhaps never tasted one, chill it down, head to a warm patio and serve with tapas-like food bites for a perfect match. To get you started, we suggest: Gazela N/V Vinho Verde, $11.99,  Aveleda Casal Garcia N/V Vinho Verde, $14.99 and Maria Bonita N/V Vinho Verde Loureiro, $14.49.

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We head northeast to France from Portugal, where Provencal rosé is the safe pick. But the value pick, and far more interesting, is Picpoul. Picpoul is an ancient grape making bright, clear, fresh white wine with floral notes, delicate watery fruit and plenty of refreshing acidity. Think of it as a squeeze of lemon for your food. It’s perfect with clams, mussels or crab and most any dish prepared in the Mediterranean style and equally at home with a charcuterie plate. Sadly we have one single Picpoul in B.C. Liquor Ormarine Picpoul de Pinet Les Pins De Camille, $16.49, although you can find dozens of French whites over $100. When everyone is drinking rosé or Sauvignon Blanc, at your next summer barbecue take a Picpoul to sip on and enjoy your standing as the ultimate wine hipster.

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Summer is the perfect time to explore the Austrian grape Grüner Veltliner, an uber-cool, food-friendly varietal. A consistent performer in this market is the Laurenz V. Und Sophie Singing Grüner Veltliner, $23.99 that presents dry with gooseberry, green fig and white pepper notes flecked with bits of tangerine. If you want to learn a thing or two (I know it’s summer and you want to have fun), try serving this wine alongside some rising B.C. stars like: Culmina Family Estate Unicus Gruner Veltliner, $27; Summerhill Pyramid Winery, Summerhill Vineyard, Demeter-certified biodynamic Grüner Veltliner; or Peak Cellars Grüner Veltliner, $24.

Riesling and summer are often inseparable as the warmth of the days and the freshness of Riesling seem to melt into each other. The flavours of Riesling are only exceeded by the variety of foods that pair with it. Think Thai, Korean, Chinese, Indian, barbecue and more. There is a wide selection of head-turning Rieslings in the market, and the more you try the more you seek out.

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Here is a short list of widely available bottles in government stores. Australia’s Eden Valley is home to the Pewsey Vale Single Vineyard Estate Riesling, $21.99 and is packed with floral notes, dried herbs, white pepper and tight, fresh, lime pith acidity. Two favourite German jewels are the Selbach Riesling, $19.99 (Fish Label) Mosel, Germany, a crisp, dry Riesling with crunchy red apple fruit mixed with peaches and perfect acidity. Finally, the Dr. Loosen Blue Slate Riesling Dry 2019, $15.69 is a stunning bottle of wine at an unexpected price. The goal is elegance, with racy fruit wrapped up in fresh citrus, guava and bright acidity finishing clean and stony.

One of the best local labels is Tantalus Riesling, $30.99 from East Kelowna, and it comes with nectarine, citrus flavours and a wet stone, mineral finish. Another standout is the Martin’s Lane 2017  Naramata Ranch Vineyard Riesling, $65, awash in ultra-bright, juicy fruit with intense stony, mineral, lemon-lime notes.

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It is officially summer next week, and there is no better way to celebrate the warm weather than with some cool wines.

Weekend Wine Picks

Gazela Vinho Verde N/V, Vinhos Verde, Portugal 

$9.99 I 87/100

UPC: 5601012045505

The Gazela Vinho Verde is the ultimate summer sipper. Fresh cut apples and green melon mix with mineral, nutty aromas and zesty, almost watery fruit flavours with a lively spritz. If you have forgotten this wine or perhaps never had it, chill it down on a super-hot day and serve it with tapas-like food bites for a perfect match. Only nine-per-cent alcohol, and it’s excellent value, too.

Louis Bernard Côtes du Rhône Blanc 2020, Rhone Valley, France 

$14.99 I 88/100

UPC: 604174000974

This wine remains delicious and, for the price, a real revelation regarding the potential for inexpensive white Rhone. The blend is a mix of Grenache Blanc, Bourboulenc and Clairette, and it is as juicy and as fresh as it gets for the price. The palate has a floral, mineral, slightly bitter citrus note with a fresh, stony finish. I love the value here; back up the truck.

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Di Lenardo Pinot Grigio Monovitigno 2020, Friuli-Venezia Giulia, Italy 

$19.99 I 88/100

UPC: 8007711000055

The Di Lenardo property has been in production since 1878. They mix estate fruit with purchased fruit from the DOC regions of Friuli Grave, Friuli Aquileia and Colli Orientali Del Friuli to put together their grigio. The style is modern, and the fruit is hand-harvested. The result is a consistently clean, bright style boasting floral honey, baked apples, citrus, quince and almond with a dusting of minerality in the finish. Spaghetti carbonara is a good match, but most sushi rolls work here, too. Good value.

RockBare The Clare Valley Riesling 2019, Australia 

$22.97 I 90/100

UPC: 860000845915

The Clare RockBare comes off three blocks north of the Watervale township in the Clare Valley. Two blocks date back to 1975, and all three bring something different to the blend. The winemaking is simple: A cool, early morning pick is pressed and the juice is clarified and fermented slowly in stainless steel. The wine is then left on lees and often stirred over four months, building texture on the palate before bottling. Expect a classic cut lime nose with a dusting of lemongrass and tangy citrus flecked with ginger, minerals and sea salt. Prawns, anyone?

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Sea Change Prosecco Rosé  N/V, Veneto, Italy 

$21.99 I 87/100

UPC: 5060137516619

Sea Change produces a range of ethically sourced, eco-friendly wines from around the globe that fight plastic pollution. A portion of sales also supports ocean conservation projects worldwide. Expect a pale peach hue from this 85/15 Prosecco blend of Glera and Pinot Noir. Crisp and fresh, the acid is balanced by sweetly fragrant cherry blossoms, candied strawberries, ripe pear and a sugar bump. Patio ready.

Recipe: Sweet pea tart

A tart fit for royalty, this appetizer or lunch option puts peas front and centre. Created by Langdon Hall Chef Jason Bangerter and shared in the new cookbook Langdon Hall: A Cookbook, Bangerter’s creation is billed as being a “versatile” option that can easily see different seasonal vegetables — cherry tomatoes, zucchini, eggplant — subbed in for the tiny green orbs.

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Sweet pea tart
Buckwheat tart shells

1 cup (250 mL) buckwheat flour

1 cup (250 mL) all-purpose flour

2 tsp (10 mL) sugar

1/4 tsp (1 mL) kosher salt

1 cup (250 mL) chilled unsalted butter, cubed

2 large egg whites

2. tsp (10 mL) water, if needed

In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, mix together the buckwheat flour, all-purpose flour, sugar and salt. On low speed, add the chilled butter, a few pieces at a time, until the mixture resembles crumbly coarse sand with a few pea-sized pieces of butter still visible. Add the egg whites and continue to mix on low speed just until the dough forms a ball that holds together. Add the water if necessary to bring the dough together.

Transfer the dough onto a work surface and flatten and shape it into a ½-inch-thick disc. Wrap in plastic wrap and chill for at least 2 hours in the refrigerator.

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On a lightly floured surface, roll the dough out to 1/16-inch thickness. Cut out 4 circles with a 5-inch round cutter and fit each circle into a 3-inch tart pan with removable bottom, gently pressing it into the corners and up the sides. Trim the dough flush with the top of the pans. Chill the shells for 30 minutes before baking.

Preheat the oven to 350°F (180°C).

Arrange the tart pans on a small baking sheet. Prick the base of the pastry with a fork. Line each pan with parchment paper and fill with baking beans or rice.

Blind bake the shells for 10 minutes, until the dough is baked and set. Remove the parchment and beans and continue to bake for another 5 minutes or until the dough is cooked through on the bottom and golden brown. Transfer to a rack and allow to cool completely. Remove the shells from the tart pans before serving.

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Mint oil

1 cup (250 mL) lightly packed fresh mint leaves

1/2 cup (125 mL) vegetable oil

Fresh spring peas

1 cup (250 mL) shucked fresh peas

1/2 tbsp (7.5 mL) mint oil (recipe above)

1/4 tsp (1 mL) kosher salt

Fill a medium bowl with ice water. Bring a medium saucepan of salted water to a boil. Blanch the mint in the pot of boiling water for 10 seconds. Drain the mint and plunge it into the ice water. When cool, drain the mint and squeeze out any excess water. In a blender, blend the mint and vegetable oil for 2 minutes. Strain through a fine-mesh sieve, several layers of cheesecloth or a coffee filter into a Mason jar. Allow to cool, seal the jar with the lid and keep in the refrigerator until ready to use.

English pea purée

6 cups (1,500 mL) vegetable stock

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1 tsp (5 mL) kosher salt

2 cups (250 mL) shucked fresh peas

Fill a medium bowl with ice water. In a medium sauce pan, bring the vegetable stock and the salt to a boil. Add the peas and blanch for 1½ minutes. Strain the peas, reserving the stock, and plunge them into the ice water to cool rapidly. This will stop the cooking and preserve their bright green colour. When the peas are cool, remove from the ice water and transfer to a high-speed blender. Purée the peas, adding just enough vegetable stock in a slow, steady stream while blending to achieve a smooth, velvety consistency. When processed, adjust the seasoning with salt, if required. Strain through a fine-mesh sieve into a small saucepan. Warm gently before serving.

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Garnish

2 tbsp (30 mL) crème fraîche

Fresh mint leaves

Pea flowers

Pea tendrils

Flaky sea salt

Fill a medium bowl with ice water. Bring a medium saucepan of salted water to a boil. Add the peas and blanch for 1 minute. Drain the peas and add them to the ice water to cool rapidly. This will stop the cooking and preserve their bright green colour. When cool, drain and dry on paper towel.

In a small bowl, combine the blanched peas, the mint oil and the salt. Gently mix until the peas are coated with the oil.

To serve

Spoon 1/2 tablespoon of crème fraîche into each tart shell and smooth it into a level puddle. Repeat with the pea purée. Carefully spoon the seasoned peas into the tart shell, filling it to the edge. Garnish the rim with mint, pea flowers and pea tendrils. Sprinkle with some flaky sea salt.

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Serves four.

Excerpted from Langdon Hallby Jason Bangerter and Chris Johns. Copyright 2022 by Langdon Hall Country House Hotel and Spa. Photography 2022 Colin Faulkner. Published by Penguin Canada, a division of Penguin Random House Canada Limited. Reproduced by arrangement with the Publisher. All rights reserved.

Recipe Match

Sweet pea tarts and Sauvignon Blanc are this week’s match.

Cirro Sauvignon Blanc 2021, Marlborough, South Island, New Zealand, $22.98
Tight, bright and packed full of white asparagus, verbena and grapefruit kissed with passion fruit that will ignite these seasonal tarts.

Mayhem Small Lot Sauvignon Blanc 2021, Naramata Bench, Okanagan Valley, B.C., $15.65
Tangerine, passion fruit and crunchy Asian pear will add some fruit and lift to a warm, delicious sweet pea tart.

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