Anthony Gismondi: These are the best B.C. sparkling wines to try

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A decade ago, I wrote a column about sparkling wine and suggested that if you wanted to know which of your friends were really into wine, check their refrigerator. If you found a bottle of sparkling wine waiting to be opened for no particular reason, chances are they were wine geeks.

Fast-forward 10 years, and I’m happy to report that sparkling wine has moved from something wine geeks drank regularly, or others opened on birthdays or holidays, to a much more mainstream beverage. In a region where high acid is as plentiful as winter rain, B.C. producers are now well on their way to becoming noted producers of high-quality sparklers.

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The fiercely competitive sparkling wine category at the National Wine Awards of Canada was announced earlier this week. B.C. producers took home just under half of the medals that scored 90 points or more in the final round of judging. In a nutshell, we are producing more sparkling wines than ever, and many of them are in the coveted Blanc de Blanc sub-category dominated by 100 per cent Chardonnay-based bubbles. Some spend up to 60 months in the bottle before release, reaching the pinnacle of their complexity.

Here is the list, complete with the wine’s overall ranking nationally and the judge’s average score. The comments come from my notes if I have tasted the wine over the last year.

The Noble Ridge 2018 McEachnie Vintage Blanc de Blanc was No. 2 in the country and a rare platinum medal winner, garnering 93 points. The $115 1.5-litre bottle is only available to club members. It is safe to say the Noble Ridge sparkling wine program is in full flight.

The following three wines, No. 3 Liquidity Wines N/V Reserve Sparkling Brut, No. 7 Noble Ridge 2019 The Pink One, and No. 8 La Frenz Winery 2020 Aster Estate Grown Chardonnay Pinot Noir Brut, all scored 92 points, earning them gold medals. Among the best in the country, these wines strike a perfect balance of complexity and deliciousness. They are ideal for any occasion and should leave you intrigued and excited to explore their unique flavours. The Liquidity and Noble Ridge bubbles are grown inside the Okanagan Falls sub-geographical indication. La Frenz is situated inside the Naramata Bench sub-GI.

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The following five wines all reached the 91-point mark, claiming gold medals. The No. 10 Lightning Rock 2021 Elysia Vineyard Blanc de Noirs at $46 is establishing itself as a Summerland star. The No. 12 Township 7 2020 Seven Stars Polaris $40 is an Okanagan Valley jewel. The No. 13 Road 13 2019 Select Harvest Old Vines Sparkling Chenin Blanc $45 is made with some of the oldest Chenin Blanc vines in Canada planted as early as 1968, while the No.16 Tinhorn Creek 2019 Blanc de Blanc $52 is a breath of fresh air from the Okanagan Valley. The No. 17 sparkling wine in the country, Bench 1775 2020 Blanc de Blanc $41, under the direction of winemaker Richard Kanazawa, is the perfect oyster bubble.

The following seven wines all awarded silver medals, landing within the top 36 sparklers in the country. First up at No. 26 is the Corcelettes 2022 Methode Traditionelle, $59, it is a new wine yet to be released. The No. 28 Blasted Church 2018 OMG $30 comes off the Skaha Bench, while No. 30 Tantalus Vineyards 2021 Blanc de Noir $36.50 is an East Kelowna star. The No. 32 Monte Creek 2023 Living Land Sparkling Rosé $28 takes you on a relaxed, cool-climate journey to Kamloops and the Thompson Valley. No. 35 Dirty Laundry 2019 Cellar Series Brut Rosé $36 is yet another solid Summerland performer, and finally, at No. 36 in the country Township 7 2016 Sirius $80 hails from the winery’s Langley Estate and is bottle aged for 60 months. It is a special list and one you should keep handy all year.

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Weekend wine picks

CedarCreek Platinum Sparkling Rosé N/V, South East Kelowna, Okanagan Valley

$42 I 90/100

UPC: 778913801570

This organic Rosé sparkler comes from the stellar Jagged Rock Vineyard on the south Okanagan Black Sage Bench. The warmth of the site allows the CedarCreek team to grow high-tannin fruit and use it to balance the delicate acidity in the wine. We love the floral characters here, the infinitely tiny bubbles, and the Provencal-like colour. The nose and palate are abuzz with cherry and strawberry fruit aromas and flavours that fade into a creamy finish. A pretty-in-pink style of Rosé that will be well received on the patio. It spends thirty days in stainless steel on its lees and another 90 days in the tank before bottling.

JoieFarm Plein de Vie Brut 2022, Okanagan Valley

$39.99 I 89/100

UPC: 626990266235

It has been a few years since I last tasted this wine, which was a friendly cherry-berry affair then. This latest rendition is a much more complete bubble with bright acidity running through a field of wild strawberries and fresh cranberries, all with a tight array of bubbles that lifts its overall demeanour. It is still a delicious Rosé, but a more serious approach to its carbonation allows it to come to the dinner table where it really shines.

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Lightning Rock Pét Nat Chenin Blanc Harrington House Vineyard 2023, Summerland Bench, Okanagan Valley

$32 I 90/100

UPC: 696852137645

Pet Nats are not my favourite, but I would make an exception for this bottle, which is as good as it gets for the category. Certainly, Chenin Blanc seems well suited for the fragrant aromas that spill onto the palate, pitching pear, melons, and honeysuckle with refreshing acidity and a surprising amount of minerality. The fruit is farmed organically at Harrington House Vineyard in Peachland, whole cluster pressed, settled for a day and fermented slow and relaxed in concrete eggs. It was bottled by mid-October and rested on its lees for six months before being disgorged in March 2024. The winery recommends a creamy textured soft cheese like Brie or Camembert to set off the crispy green flavours of the wine. This is a refreshingly well-made Pet Nat you can enjoy all summer.

Tantalus Blanc de Blancs 2021, East Kelowna Slopes, Okanagan Valley

$34.80 I 92/100

UPC: 626990332053

I am a big fan of Blanc de Blancs, which, at its best, pours with complexity and finesse, as this does. The Tantalus BdB comes off an aging 11-year-old Chardonnay block on the home East Kelowna estate. Winemaker David Patterson ferments it in older neutral puncheons (larger oak barrels). It spends seven months on its lees before heading to bottle and its secondary fermentation. It spends another 22 months on lees before it is disgorged and topped up with some still Chardonnay, setting the residual sugar at a modest 3.85 g/L. Expect a creamy palate with intriguing textures mixed with early morning ocean notes. Citrus and oyster liquor fill the back end of an enticing sparkler that should live well through 2030. Oh, and I love the price.

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Noble Ridge The Pink One 2019, Okanagan Valley

$34.99 I 91/100

UPC: 626990333050

A favourite of many at the recent National Wine Awards, this mature Rosé opens with toasted notes and crisp, dry red fruit that shout class and traditional method winemaking. Look for a mix of strawberry and raspberry mixed with red apples and cherries that stream throughout the wine, with a touch of brioche in the finish. Drink all summer on the patio with smoked salmon and cream cheese or some spicy tuna sushi rolls. This will have a broad appeal.

Calendar items

The B.C. Crab Fishermen’s Association and Mitch’s Catch are hosting the second annual False Creek Crab Fest for fresh B.C. Dungeness crab, with drinks, music, games, local chefs, fishers and more. It takes place on Saturday, July 27, from noon to 4:30 p.m. at the False Creek Harbour Authority, Fishermen’s Wharf at 1505 W. 1st Ave. There will be a local Dungeness crab boil prepared by chef Vish Mayekar with chef Johnny Bridge, live music, games, sips, and beer and wine. The sole mission is to raise awareness and make local Dungeness crab more accessible for all locals to enjoy. Tickets can be purchased online at Eventbrite or at the entrance, but remember that the event sold out last year.

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•••

The Symington Port family is introducing limited quantities of vintage Port under a new re-release program with wines the company holds back for long-term aging. The Library Release bottles will feature Ports between 20 and 30 years of age that have matured in perfect conditions in the family’s cellars. For the first time, the labels will state the number of years the wine has aged in a bottle in the family’s cellars, together with the bottling and release dates.  All Library Releases have been carefully re-corked to guarantee quality, and the labels display the year in which the process was completed. The initial launch will feature the 2003 Dow’s, Graham’s, Warre’s, and a 1995 Quinta do Vesúvio and should be in B.C. before Christmas.

B.C. wine of the week

Black Hills Alibi 2022, Okanagan Valley

$35 I 91/100

UPC: 626990061564

This wine continues to improve with time. Winemaker Ross Wise has carefully adjusted the blend, favouring Sauvignon over Sémillon in a 94/6 split. It greets you with delicate, intense aromatics, a dance of classic Sauvignon gooseberry, cut grass, and just a hint of the richness of Sémillon. It’s a refreshing style with fine minerality and a perfect companion for a wide range of dishes. This wine will age well into 2027.

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Value wine of the week

Spier Chenin Blanc Signature Collection 2023, Stellenbosch, Coastal Region, South Africa

$11.99 I 88/100

UPC: 00606655000299

This Chenin comes from the Western Cape’s Breede River and Coastal regions. It was cool fermented and aged in stainless on its lees for three months before bottling. At Gismondi on Wine, our South African authority and Chenin Blanc lover Treve Ring described it as a cool, green-edged lemon verbena on the nose that sails along a sleek palate, with crunchy green apple, thistle, and subtle guava on the snappy finish. Fresh, bright, and shining, this is a lovely selection for spring salads and simple shellfish. It is on sale for $11.99 and is regularly $14.99 in 168 stores.

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