Anthony Gismondi: These Italian white wines will entertain you all summer
Last week, several Italian producers visited the city for the annual Tre Bicchieri, or “Three Glasses,” trade tasting. This prestigious award is the highest rating given by Gambero Rosso, a prominent Italian food and wine media organization that releases an annual list of Italy’s best wines.
Industry experts blind-taste thousands of wines and score each with one glass for good, two for very good and three glasses, or Tre Bicchieri, for wines deemed the best, often limited to fewer than 500 wines each year. Most winners have a Tre Bicchieri sticker on their label.
Given the surge in white-wine interest worldwide and the impending arrival of summer, I used the event to taste mostly white wines. The switch to white from red wine, while slow and steady, is becoming more of a rush each day. We recently reported that the Rhone Valley plans to triple its white wine output by 2030, and Beaujolais producers are talking about similar changes.
The Italians have long made interesting whites that were seldom exported until now, but with soaring global travel and a New World market of Chardonnay, Sauvignon and pinot Gris in need of an energy injection, Italy has become a go-to white wine producer, especially for those who enjoy wine with their food.
Today, we present a short list of Italian whites to entertain you all summer, but know that some go by a different name than the grape used to make them. Many are available in private wine stores; others are in B.C. Liquor stores. You can do some online sleuthing or ask your retailer for help finding them.
• Timorasso — Piedmont:
Timorasso is experiencing a renaissance, gaining attention for its complexity, aging potential, and mineral-driven profile. It was among the most awarded white wines in the 2025 Gambero Rosso guide, known for its floral nose, bright acidity and honey/almond flavours.
• Vermentino — Tuscany & Sardinia:
Vermentino, or Rolle in France, is having a moment as consumers find themselves attracted to its refreshing citrus flavours and palate-cleansing salinity in the finish. It is a superb wine for seafood, pesto pasta and anything with fennel.
• Pecorino — Abruzzo & Marche:
Pecorino has aromatic intensity and structure, but a similarly high level of acidity always balances its higher sugar content. That combination gives it more volume in the mouth, making it more age-worthy and complex. It’s an excellent wine for the dinner table.
• Fiano — Campania:
Fiano di Avellino continues to impress with its nutty, floral character and richer, almost waxy texture. It is often labelled Fiano di Avellino, whose fans love its primary flavours of Asian pear, hazelnuts, honeydew melon and orange peel.
• Soave — Veneto:
Soave has slowly but surely overcome its bland reputation thanks to some quality focused producers. The Garganega grape is the key driver of a dry, crisp, fruity profile, pitching a mix of citrus, apple, white peach and pear. Think grilled fish, seafood risotto or chicken Alfredo. It is time for another look.
• Lugana — Lombardy/Veneto:
The Lugana wines were a big hit at the tasting, but will require a private wine store hunt. The wine is mainly made from the Turbiana grape, which follows the theme with its crisp acidity, nutty, floral and full-bodied profile that pairs wonderfully with lobster or crab.
There you have it, and we just scratched the surface. Here in B.C., you can add Roussillon, Albarino, Riesling, Chenin Blanc, Trebbiano, Gruner Veltliner, Semillon and more on the way. We only need warmer weather to open the patio and kick off summer.
Weekend Wine Picks
Barone di Valforte Pecorino 2023, Abruzzo, Italy
$21.99 I 89/100
UPC:
8033413003063
Forget the cheese, this wine derives its name from the Italian word for sheep, “Pecora,” which graze on the golden grapes. The wine’s intoxicating aromas blend wild honey and citrus with notes of almonds, pears with a stony mineral base and some Mediterranean wild herbs. In B. C, this is a terrific mussel wine, or you could serve it with a piece of aged pecorino cheese or roasted turkey.
Argiolas Costamolino Vermentino di Sardegna 2023, Sardinia, Italy
$21.99 I 90/100
UPC:
8010544110754
This respected estate, located on the island of Sardinia, focuses on native varieties. The vermentino grape comes from cool, hillside vineyards situated 190 metres above the Mediterranean. The nose is a subtle mix of floral aromas with hints of lemon and ginger. It features bitter quince and ripe stone fruit flavours, balanced by a sweet tangerine finish. This wine pairs well with seafood dishes, including squid, crab, clams and mussels. Start the party.
Peak Cellars Riesling 2022, Lake Country, Okanagan Valley, British Columbia, Canada
$24.00 I 93/100
UPC:
681714160015
I tasted this on the heels of it receiving 96 points, a gold medal and Best in Class at the L.A. International Wine Competition. It opens with a rich aromatic nose and vibrant fruity palate. Notes of tinned pineapple, green apple and spice intermingle with sweeter honeysuckle notes and ripe papaya. The balance is acidity-led in the back end, with crisp orchard fruit and a wisp of Okanagan desert scrub. It is delicious and more than capable of accompanying richly flavoured menu items. Think of Asian dishes, local baked salmon or slow-roasted pork. Impressive.
CedarCreek Pinot Gris Grown in Oregon 2024, Willamette Valley, Oregon, United States
$24.99 I 89/100
UPC:
776545502148
Grown in Willamette Valley and processed in Kelowna at the CedarCreek winery, it has been fermented primarily in stainless steel (90 per cent) to maintain its fresh profile, with a touch of neutral oak (10 per cent) for added depth and a supple mid-palate. It is a very friendly version of pinot Gris with a 7.3 per cent bump of residual sugar that matches the acidity, balancing the wine. It is reminiscent of many Oregon pinot Gris that are always a more fruity than super fresh.
Feudi di San Gregorio Pietra Calda 2022, Campania, Italy
$39.99 I 90/100
UPC:
8022888956011
Feudi di San Gregorio Pietra Calda highlights the Fiano di Avellino grape. It gains texture and complexity after four to five months on its lees with frequent bâtonnage. The wine has a floral nose that evolves into guava, mineral, citrus, quince and anise aromas. It offers green apple, mineral, lime and nectarine flavours in a distinct bottle, designed by Italian legend Massimo Vignelli. It makes it a perfect birthday gift.
Calendar items
• The B.C. Crab Fishermen’s Association and the Chefs’ Table Society of B.C. present the False Creek Crab Fest on July 6, from noon to 5 p.m. at False Creek Fishermen’s Wharf. This event features a Dungeness Crab boil by local chefs Vish Mayekar and Johnny Bridge, with beverages from local partners. Attendees can connect with regional fishers, while enjoying waterfront views, live music, games and family activities. Early Bird Tickets are $65 per person, plus taxes, until June 8, and include a crab plate, sweet treat and two beverage tastings. For tickets and more information, visit
. All proceeds go to the ongoing programs the society puts on for local chefs.
• The music is back at Blasted Church on their sun-drenched patio overlooking peaceful Skaha Lake.
The lineup of artists is available on their website
and runs every Sunday and a few Saturdays until the end of September. Chef John Burke will also have light bites and tasty treats to pair with winemaker Evan Saunders’ wines. Saunders has been flying under the radar, but his wines are impressive and improving in leaps and bounds every season. Regular tasting hours are 10 a.m. to 5 p.m.; the final tasting is at 4 p.m. Reservations are available online or by calling 250-497-1125.
B.C. wine of the week
JoieFarm Sauvignon Blanc Pacific Northwest Edition 2024, Yakima Valley, Columbia Valley, Washington, United States
$25.00 I 91/100
UPC:
696852197922
This particular Sauvignon Blanc presents a pronounced lemon aroma permeating its nose and early palate. Although there is a subtle hint of grassiness, this wine resembles Sancerre more closely than New Zealand, contributing to its intellectual and sensory charm. Midpalate offers a juicy, watery note that slides down easily before ending in a clean finish, preparing the palate for its next bite. It is an excellent choice for summer and pairs exceptionally well with any dish that benefits from a squeeze of lemon. Well done, JoieFarm.
Value wine of the week
Paul Mas Côté Mas Rosé Aurore 2023, Sud de France
$16.99 I 87/100
UPC:
3760040432113
It is a rare wine that remains close to the same price year after year while seemingly improving, but that is the story of this humble rosé. Made by Jean Claude Mas, who is serious about wine no matter the price, this litre-bottle of juicy, fruity rosé boasts a pale pink colour with strawberry and raspberry notes that will charm you and your guests, especially on a warm patio. The Grenache, cinsault and Syrah mix has all the elements to deliver what Jean Claude refers to as “Le Luxe Rural.” It’s a terrific value that transforms any patio into a luxurious country setting.
Source: vancouversun.com