Anthony Gismondi: Top B.C. sparkling wines for the Christmas season

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Nothing says the holidays like sparkling wine, but we have learned over the last few years that we no longer need a special occasion to reach for the bubbles. The sparkling category has finally assumed a drink-it-anytime moniker, and frankly, the wine has never been better, especially in B.C.

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The artisanal sparkling wine market is booming in B.C., but to be realistic, the competition is global, big in size and even more significant in production. Experience and the ability to produce large amounts of sparkling wine make the opposition highly competitive regarding price, even if the quality is not so overwhelming. That leaves it up to consumers to find the right bubble for the right occasion and ultimately decide what they prefer and how much they want to pay.

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We could live with 50 per cent fewer foreign, non-Champagne sparklers and replace them with B.C. selections. The issue is pricing; no one in B.C. has figured out how to make a $25 sparkler, and we seem fixated on pricing our sparkling wines just below entry-level Champagne, leaving a big opportunity to service a large amount of the bubble market in the $20-40 range, but I digress.

Today, we explore the versatility of sparkling wines, a beverage that pairs beautifully with a wide range of dishes. Due to their high acid content, all sparklers are better with food. Think beyond the traditional pairings and consider simple bites such as smoked salmon on cream cheese, mushroom bruschetta, popcorn, cheese straws or a favourite sushi roll. The possibilities are endless, and what follows are some of our favourites. We only have room to list our picks, but you can read the full notes on most of them at gismondionwine.com.

B.C.: Local sparkling wine has never been better, and your choices are many.

Bartier Bros. NV Brut Chardonnay, Oliver $34, Hester Creek 2021 Old Vine Brut, Okanagan Valley $35, Seven Stars 2022 Rigel Riesling Fool’s Gold Vineyard $36, JoieFarm Plein de Vie 2022 Brut, Okanagan Valley, Narmata Bench $40, Lightning Rock 2021 Blanc de Noirs Canyonview Vineyard Brut Nature, Summerland $40.

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Noble Ridge 2018 The One Sparkling Brut, Okanagan Falls $40, Tantalus 2021 Blanc de Blancs Chardonnay, East Kelowna Slopes $40, Terravista 2022 En Terre Sparkling Brut, Okanagan Valley $45.

Garnet Valley Ranch 2016 Traditional Method Sparkling, Garnet Valley $50, Ailm Blanc de Blanc Traditional Method, West Kelowna $58.00, Seven Stars 2020 Aurora Pinot Noir Stoneridge Vineyard, Okanagan Falls $58, Corcelettes Methode Traditionelle 2022 Brut, Similkameen $60.

FRANCE: The most affordable, quality non-champagne sparklers, or crémant, come from Burgundy, Limoux, the Jura and the Loire. Wines we like: Louis Bouillot Perle Rare Crémant de Bourgogne $29,Domaine Rolet NV Crémant du Jura Blanc $35,  De Chanceny Cremant de Loire Brut Rosé $28.50.

ITALY: Prosecco leads all sales, but other Italian regions continue to make inroads up and down the boot, and all of these offerings are better with small bites of Italian style. Bottega Petalo N/V Il Vino dell’Amore Moscato $16.49, Medici Ermete i Quercioli Lambrusco di Sorbara Secco N/V $20.00, Medici Ermete Lambrusco Reggiano Concerto Organic $22.50, Bottega Rosé Gold Spumante Brut N/V $33, Ferrari Brut Metodo Classico N/V $35

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SOUTH AFRICA/AUSTRALIA/NEW ZEALAND: The selection in B.C. liquor stores from this trio of countries is pretty bleak save for the odd label, such as the Oyster Bay NV Sparkling Cuvée Brut, Marlborough $20. Your best bet in private wine shops is the Jansz Premium Cuvee Brut $50-$60.

SPAIN: There is an attractive nutty character to the dry sparkling Cavas of Spain with a whiff of fresh fruit. They are mostly dry and appetizer-friendly, but the selection in B.C. could be more extensive. Wines we like: Codorníu Clásico Brut $18, Segura Viudas Brut Rose $19, Varias Cava NV Genui Brut Nature, Sant Sadurní d’Anoia $20, Villa Conchi Brut N/V $19, Segura Viudas Heredad Brut Reserva $39.

Weekend wine picks

Varias Cava Genui Brut Nature N/V, Sant Sadurní d’Anoia, Penedès, Cataluña, Spain

$19.99 I 88/100

UPC: 8414617265004

Consistency is the game’s name here, which makes sense given that Varias has been bottling sparkling wine for 100 years in the Alt Penedès region of Spain, the historic birthplace of DO Cava. Brut Nature is a 30/40/30 mix of Macabeo/Xarel·lo/Parellada that presents fresh, light, and super dry with a mix of citrus and light almond flavours and a pleasant creamy texture. Light, crisp and ready-to-drink make it a fine icebreaker for holiday partygoers. Serve with assorted sushi rolls or tapas-like bites.

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Terravista En Terre Sparkling Brut 2022, Okanagan Valley, B.C.

$45 I 89/100

UPC: 626990449317

En Terre is an exciting new project at Terravista Vineyards. The first release is a traditional method sparkling wine, crafted from a 69/31 blend of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay sourced from Naramata’s En Terre Vineyard and Kaleden’s Ercego Vineyard. It showcases a refined effervescence that offers early morning bakery aromas, accompanied by citrus and apple notes within its creamy, rounded bubbles. The bone-dry wine features bracing acidity, which pairs beautifully with smoked salmon blinis — making for a delightful start.

Fitz Blanc de Blancs 2019, Okanagan Valley, B.C.

$47.50 I 89/100

UPC: 626990252979

This Greata Ranch estate vineyard chardonnay is situated between Peachland and Summerland on the west shore of Okanagan Lake. It is fermented and aged in neutral French oak before heading to a bottle for 36 months, then disgorged and topped up with a kiss of residual sugar. Look for a creamy red apple, a touch of toasted lees, lime rind, and a long, smooth, floral, mineral aftertaste, along with green apple, oyster shell, and a hint of spice. Don’t be fooled by its easy sipping style; this is a serious effort, improving every month in bottle.

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Seven Stars Aurora Stoneridge Vineyard 2020, Okanagan Falls, B.C.

$58 I 92/100

UPC: 626990374305

Winemaker Mary McDermott drives Township 7’s first-class sparkling wine program sold under the Seven Stars moniker. Aurora is a Blanc de Noirs made from 100 per cent clone 15 Pinot Noir and is aged on its lees for over 30 months after its secondary fermentation in the bottle. The 2020 is lighter, pitching a faded straw yellow hue with hyper-fresh white peach, baked apple, saline, and seaspray nose. The flavours are intense, and the acid is front and centre from entry to finish. Look for bright red fruits poking through its refreshing palate. Perfect for West Coast smoked sockeye salmon.

Corcelettes Methode Traditionelle Brut 2022, Keremeos, Similkameen Valley, B.C.

$59.90 I 90/100

UPC: 696852021029

The 2022 Methode Traditionelle comes off the Corcelettes Estate Vineyard on the Upper Bench, Keremeos, in the Similkameen Valley. The vines are hand-tended, the fruit hand-harvested, and hand-sorted from a vineyard that is raised using sustainable, responsible, and organic farming practices. The secondary ferment in the bottle sees the wine aged on its lees for 15 months. Look for fresh lemon and yellow fruit scents on the nose. The palate is similarly bright with a tight mousse and strong mineral and saline notes under a citrus-soaked green apple-flavoured finish. This must be served with food to balance the freshness; freshly shucked oysters would be the ticket or a favourite soft cheese.

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Calendar Items

Roche Wines is offering a series of exceptional tastings in an inviting casual setting until Christmas. The Amulet Portfolio–Rhone-themed wines under the Amulet label, from Roussanne, Viognier, and Marsanne to Grenache and Syrah, will be poured until Dec. 14. The Roche Chateau Vertical — a Bordeaux tradition from Okanagan terroir demonstrates that the full potential of each vintage takes time to blossom. They will be poured Dec. 16- 22. The tastings are available Monday-Friday from 11 a.m. to 5 p.m. and a few weekend dates in December:  Saturday, Dec. 14, 21 and Sunday, Dec. 22. Reservations are recommended but not required. The modest $20 tasting fee is waived for Black Book members.

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If you want to up your wine game, the Grand Tasting Room at the Vancouver International Wine Festival, home of the International Festival Tastings, will offer a maximum tasting room experience with a newly created all-sessions IFT Pass. The pass provides exclusive access to all International Festival Tasting sessions, a value of $516 worth of tickets for only $375. Buying now at the advanced rate will save you an additional $25. The IFT Pass holders can attend four events: three evenings of International Festival Tastings, Thursday, Feb. 27; Friday, Feb. 28; Saturday, March 1, 7-10 p.m.; and the Saturday matinee International Festival Tasting, Saturday, March 1, 2:30-5 p.m. Your pass also includes priority access to the Tasting Room; that’s right, there are no lineups.

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B.C. wine of the week

Evolve Brut Premiere 2020, Okanagan Valley, B.C.

$43.99  |  91/100

UPC: 696852145022

The latest from Evolve continues to evolve as a serious brand at Time Family of Wines in downtown Penticton. Brut Premier is a traditional method of sparkling wine that mixes 67 per cent Chardonnay with 33 per cent Pinot Noir grapes. Winemaker Lynzee Schatz has a special touch when it comes to wine, and that touch is light. The Chardonnay was given plenty of lees stirring while the Pinot was left on its own. The final blend was aged 36-plus months before the final disgorgement and bottling. There is no rush to drink this pale straw bubble that presents a clean, fresh, biscuity palate with bright floral notes and inviting, toasty flavours that finish dry. First class and will age effortless 7-10 years. It’s available to club members only, but this might be a club you want to join for more than this wine.

Value wine of the week

Altesino Rosso di Montalcino 2020, Tuscany, Italy

$29.99 I 90/100

UPC: 662255300337

Most Rosso di Montalcino is made from younger vines and juice that never made the Brunello cut, but not at Altesino. Everything is estate grown, and the Rosso lives its one life mainly faithful to the house style, which is elegance supported by red fruits and spice. Look for light, breezy cherry and raspberry mixed with polished leather, dark plums, and earthy dried herbs mid-palate. Fragrant, accessible, and with bright acidity, I love this with anything mushrooms or turkey this season—good value and authenticity, this is baby Brunello is at its best.

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