Anthony Gismondi: Vancouver International Wine Festival a great opportunity for B.C. wineries to put their best foot forward

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Timing is everything, so after only a one-year interruption, the Vancouver International Wine Festival is back in May, and it will celebrate its 43rd edition with gusto.

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But, of course, who could forget number 42, which opened under early reports of a fast-spreading virus in China that was already popping up in isolated locations worldwide. Nevertheless, the festival ran seven full days with 25,000 attendees packed into Canada Place, clinking glasses, tasting wine and expectorating into cups with nary a hitch.

A week later, a dental convention in the same building became ground zero for COVID-19 across the country. So, as we move back toward a new normal in public events, a toned-down 2022 festival is gearing up to carry on the tradition.

The 42nd festival showcased 163 wineries from 15 countries. In 2022 the overall numbers are 101 wineries, with 41 originating in British Columbia. There is no theme country, no Vintner’s Brunch, and I’m guessing fewer vintners behind the booths but organizers want to get the festival back on track and are looking at 2022 as a year of transition before the show returns to its former glory in 2023.

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With fewer wineries and fewer tickets for sale, a smaller-scale festival will ensure a healthy setting and more room to manoeuvre inside the tasting room. The trick will be getting access. The Super Pass and individual International Festival Tasting are on sale now at vanwinefest.ca.

Tickets to all other public events launch April 6. If you are planning on attending, we suggest you get organized now because, given the reduced capacity, all events are likely to sell out quickly.

As for the wineries who have jumped in and agreed to attend, suppose we start with the 41 local producers expected to be pouring in the tasting room. How about a commitment to have a principal behind the booth. Sending your winemaker or owner would provide a great deal of support to the show and one that frankly will be needed in a year when it is likely the star power in the room won’t be what it usually is. It’s not a big ask to have the hometown show up in spades after the support consumers have tossed your way since the pandemic began.

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The other half of that equation is what you pour at your booth. Again, why not reimagine your festival goals and present your very best wines to the public. The festival has always been a much-underused marketing opportunity by wineries who try to flog their large production labels at the expense of revealing their soul and story — something far more exciting and memorable from a consumer point of view.

A quick scan of attendees reveals some exciting international names — from Argentina, leading light Familia Zuccardi, has signed on. From nearby Uruguay, Bodega Garzon is a must booth visit. The Croatian team is four strong: Coronica, Vinarija Korta Katarin, Vinarija Krolo, Vino Vuina. The French team is tiny, but Louis Jadot and Château Pesquié are coming. The German brigade is Dr. Loosen/Villa Wolf. Italy is sending 18 producers led by Antinori Estates, Mazzei, Rocca delle Macìe and Tolaini.

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Spain will have nine producers in the room with Bodegas Castaño, Gil Family Estates, González Byass and Marqués de Riscal leading the pack.

The Americans are 19 strong, including the modern joint ventures. Top labels in the room include Robert Mondavi, Rodney Strong, Signorello, Stags’ Leap Winery, Gloria Ferrer / Segura Viudas, Jackson Family Wines and Penfolds.

Locally 41 producers will come to town, some big, some small, some famous and some just getting started. Look for Blasted Church, Burrowing Owl, CedarCreek, Da Silva, Frind, Harper’s Trail, Haywire, Hester Creek, Hermit Wine, La Frenz, Mission Hill, Moraine, One Faith, Osoyoos Larose, Peak Cellars, Phantom Creek, Poplar Grove, Quails’ Gate, Road 13, Seven Stars by Township 7 and Unsworth Vineyards from the Cowichan Valley.

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All things being equal, South America, scheduled to headline the 2021 festival, will fulfil that role in 2023. But, for now, a 2022 festival in possibly warm, sunny, spring weather with long hours of daylight should be enough to get the annual winefest back to its full-sized next year.

Weekend wine picks

Sangre de Toro Tempranillo 2020, Penedès, Catalunya (Catalonia Cataluña), Spain 

$17.99 I 87/100

UPC: 8410113003690

I had forgotten how delicious this wine could be, and at an estimated $16 to $18 it is a good buy but only in the private sector — it is not sold in government stores. Nevertheless, this Tempranillo under the Torres Sangre Toro brand is a Spanish delight for everyone who asks me for everyday, easy-drinking red they can enjoy with dinner. It’s soft, round juicy and slippery as it slides down with a savoury plummy, wild blackberry character throughout. Think stews, meat-based paella, grilled chicken or pork chops.

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Hester Creek Old Vine Late Harvest 2019, Okanagan Valley, British Columbia, Canada 

$16.99 I 90/100

UPC: 626990050032

The old Block 4 Pinot Blanc was first planted in 1968, making it an ancient vine described on its new label. It is perfectly sweet at 83.5 grams per litre of residual sugar with just a squeeze of acidity at the finish to draw one pack to the wine glass. Their 2019 is an attractive orange, baked peaches, pear late harvest sipper that comes with a hint of cinnamon and is fully ready to drink — a perfect accompaniment to the classic crème brûlée dessert.

Massimo Rivetti Langhe Arneis Aurelia 2020, Langhe, Cuneo, Piedmont, Italy 

$25.99 I 90/100

UPC: 8033140252109

Organically certified grapes are harvested in the early hours when temperatures are as cool as possible from one of the highest vineyards in the region. We love the pure fruit here and the vivacity of the wine with bright acidity and a strong mineral character. Look for white flowers, pears and guava splashed with citrus that lines a creamy palate and a long persistent, flavourful finish. I enjoyed serving it with crab cakes, but it will work with any west coast seafood dishes — stock up; it is head turner you will want to pour at any opportunity. Arneis translates as a demanding and challenging person in Piemontese, seemingly the opposite of the charm of this wine.

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Narrative Syrah Viognier Syrah — Viognier 2018, Okanagan Valley, British Columbia, Canada 

$26.99 I 90/100

UPC: 626990383598

Okanagan Crush Pad’s Narrative line is all about the freshness and purity of fruit. The blend in 2018 is Syrah and Viognier from two Osoyoos vineyards, some of which were co-fermented in a clay amphora and left on skins for nine months. The result is heightened perfumed aromatics. The wine is juicy, spicy, and alive on the palate, with plummy fruit across its unique silky textures and mineral-flecked finish. You can drink this now, which is a bonus, but its balance would suggest it will hold comfortably through 2028. Of course, a whole roasted organic chicken would be the simpatico match.

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Wolf Blass Gold Label Regional Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon 2019, McLaren Vale, South Australia, Australia

$24.99 I 89/100

UPC: 9312088031175

The Wolf Blass Gold Label Regional Reserve Cabernet mixes McLaren Vale and Langhorne Creek fruit. It is packed with juicy, spicy, black cherry, black plum, and dense, soft, round tannins. A savoury note keeps it all interesting and ready to drink now. Stir-fried crispy beef with snow peas is the winery recommendation, or I would suggest beef burritos as another option. Drink or hold through 2028.

Recipe match: White chocolate brownie with pistachios and raspberries

While we typically stick closer to savoury recipes for our wine match pairings, this one was simply too good to pass up. Created by the team at Five Sails restaurant, this baked creation pairs toasted pistachios with fresh raspberries and white chocolate for a truly decadent treat:

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White Chocolate Brownie with Pistachios and Raspberries

8 oz (226 g) white chocolate coins, melted

1/2 cup (125 mL) butter

1 1/2 cups (375 mL) sugar

2 cups (250 mL) all-purpose flour

1/4 tsp (1 mL) baking powder

2 large eggs

1/2 tsp (2.5 mL) salt

2 oz (58 g) fresh raspberries

2 oz (58 g) pistachios, toasted

Chantilly

7 oz (198 g) cream

2 oz (58 g) Icing sugar

1/2 vanilla bean scraped out

Preheat the oven to 350 F. Grease and flour an 8-inch square pan.

In a sauce pan melt the 1/2 cup butter and add the melted chocolate. Remove from heat and stir in the mixed sugar and eggs. Beat the mix for 2 minutes with a hand-mixer or in a stand mixer. Add 2 cups of sieved flour, then add the baking powder and salt.

Spread batter into prepared pan.

Add some of the pistachios and half of the raspberries on top of the batter. Keep remainder for garnish.

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Bake in the preheated oven for 25-30 minutes, watching carefully to make sure as not to overcook. Whisk the Chantilly with all ingredients and keep in the fridge.

If desired, cut the finished brownie into a shape and garnish with Chantilly cream, raspberries, pistachio and fresh mint. Enjoy!

Serves six.

Recipe match

White chocolate brownie with pistachios and raspberries would be a fun addition to the end of a port tasting. 

Fonseca 10 Year Old Aged Tawny Port N/V, Douro Valley, Portugal 

$38.99 I 91/100

UPC: 5013521100949

The perfect match, this Tawny comes with a mellow hit of spiced fruitcake, walnuts and golden raisin compote ready to held devour that brownie.

Warre’s Otima 10 Year Old Port N/V, Douro Valley, Portugal 

$28.99 I 91/100

UPC: 5010867101982

Otima comes with a silky smooth palate of golden raisins, Fig Newton centres, dried fruits, nutty butterscotch and caramelized sugar, all chocolate slayers.