B.C. and Ontario in a dogfight for Chardonnay bragging rights

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The latest releases from the National Wine Awards of Canada included the Chardonnay category, which saw judges work their way through 180 entries presented in 21 flights in the first round. The number of gold and platinum wines was impressive, leading to 54 labels returning for a second-round look.

B.C. and Ontario are now in a dogfight as they race to close the quality gap in the Chardonnay category, producing wines that rival those from anywhere on this continent and beyond. B.C.’s performance is particularly noteworthy, with most of their wines readily available for sale online directly from the wineries and, in some cases, at retail. Although Ontario wineries were granted permission to sell direct to consumers in B.C., few have yet to take advantage of the opportunity.

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Despite federal approval, B.C. wineries continue to face obstacles from Ontario liquor regulators preventing them from selling their products directly to Ontario consumers. The filibustering and inaction are disappointing. It’s an incredibly disheartening situation that needs to be rectified; the sooner, the better. But I digress.

Of the 32 wines that received gold or platinum status — with 91 points or more — B.C. wineries grabbed 17 medals, including two platinums awarded to the top-scoring one per cent of all competition wines. Topping the list is one of the province’s most consistent, high-quality Chardonnays: the Meyer Vineyards 2022 Chardonnay, McLean Creek Road Vineyard ($32). Equal in score, the other platinum medal goes to the Quails’ Gate 2021 Rosemary’s Block Chardonnay ($69), which has been on an upward climb for almost a decade. Kudos to both wineries for setting such a high standard for the rest to reach.

The next five B.C. Chardonnays grouped around 92 points include the Quails’ Gate 2021 Stewart Family Reserve. Chardonnay is $49, giving the West Kelowna producer two picks in the top five. It is also a relatively large-production wine, making it easier to find across the province. Further north in Lake Country, the O’Rourke Family Estate 2022 Twisted Pine Chardonnay $85 offered us an early look at the momentum building under winemaker Nikki Callaway at this breathtaking project on the slopes above historic Carr’s Landing.

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Lilloett struck gold via the Fort Berens 2022 White Gold Chardonnay Reserve for $32, illustrating how important it is for a young region to explore its boundaries for production no matter where it takes them. Unsurprisingly, the CedarCreek 2022 Platinum Jagged Rock Chardonnay, $50, grabbed gold, given the pedigree of the Jagged Rock Vineyard. We hope it will fully recover from last winter’s cold snap that affected many vineyards in the south Okanagan and the Similkameen. Finally, the Dekleva Clone, first established on the Golden Mile Bench in the late 1960s, exhibited its prowess across the valley on Anarchist Mountain via the Meyer Vineyard 2022 Dekleva Clone Chardonnay Anarchist Mountain  Vineyard $33. Clearly, the isolation of clones and sites has taken B.C. Chardonnay to another level over the last five years.

The rest of the B.C. golds went to some familiar names and some promising newcomers. Meyer Vineyards 2022 Chardonnay Old Main Rd Vineyard $33 gives the winery three big wins in 2024, rewarding Chris Carson’s hands-off winemaking style, allowing his Chardonnays to express its whole nature in the bottle easily.

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The newcomers include a fantastic, sleek version of the world’s best-selling grape varieties, the Monte Creek 2022 Living Land Chardonnay $26, grown at Kamloops and the Thompson Valley. The Solvero 2022 Chardonnay $30 debuted, offering a sensitive, cool-climate style wine from Summerland’s Garnett Valley.

The rest of the golds, well deserved, went to some notable names, starting with the CedarCreek 2022 Platinum Lake Country Chardonnay, $50, again demonstrating the massive potential for growing serious Chardonnay in Lake Country. Nearby Gray Monk Cellars has been quietly producing very pure varietal wines for a while, and it’s great to see them rewarded with gold for their Gray Monk 2022 Odyssey Chardonnay for $35. One of the best value Chardonnays on the list is the reliable Mission Hill Family Estate 2022 Reserve Chardonnay, $26 and as hard as it is to believe that any Tantalus wine could fly under the radar, I think that is the case for the impressive Tantalus Vineyards 2022 Chardonnay $37.

Finally, the Quails’ Gate 2022 Chardonnay, $27, rounds out the trio of labels they entered with the regular among the gold and platinum and offered the third best value quotient among the top characters. From the Similkameen, the Corcelettes 2021 Chardonnay, $35, captures the wild and windy Valley to a T and will be a label to be reckoned with as the years go by.

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Here are the top Chardonnays complete with their value score; the higher the number, the higher the value.

Rank  Value Rating*  Wine
1. 288 Meyer 2022 Chardonnay McLean Creek Road vineyard
2. 134 Quails’ Gate 2021 Rosemary’s Block Chardonnay
5. 187 Quails’ Gate 2021 Stewart Family Reserve Chardonnay
6. 108 O’Rourke Family Estate 2022 Twisted Pine Chardonnay
8. 287 Fort Berens 2022 White Gold Chardonnay Reserve
9. 184 CedarCreek 2022 Platinum Jagged Rock Chardonnay
11. 285 Meyer 2022 Dekleva Clone Chardonnay Anarchist Mountain  Vineyard
15. 282 Meyer 2022 Chardonnay Old Main Rd Vineyard
16. 359 Monte Creek 2022 Living Land Chardonnay
17. 263 Solvero 2022 Chardonnay
19. 182 CedarCreek 2022 Platinum Lake Country Chardonnay
21. 263 Gray Monk 2022 Odyssey Chardonnay
27. 350 Mission Hill Family Estate 2022 Reserve Chardonnay
28. 249 Tantalus Vineyards 2022 Chardonnay
30. 337 Quails’ Gate 2022 Chardonnay
31. 260 Corcelettes 2021 Chardonnay
32. 293 Nk’Mip Cellars 2022 Winemakers Chardonnay
*The value rating considers the price and score awarded the wine. The higher the number, the better the value.

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Weekend wine picks

Quails’ Gate Stewart Family Reserve Chardonnay 2021, Okanagan Valley

$49 I 92/100

UPC: 778856219012

The Stewart Family Reserve wines are produced from some of the oldest vines on the property, now hitting the quarter-century mark. The Family Reserve is mostly Clone 95, and while its style has leaned toward California, 2021 is beginning to transition out to a leaner, more complex affair and something more Okanagan. The pears, peaches and hazelnuts combine with a creamy palate, but now the lees and acidity kick in at the back end, giving it more life and vitality. It’s dry and intense as Chardonnay can be without losing its finesse. It’s an impressive edition of the Reserve, and one Chardonnay fans should not miss. The winery suggests it pairs well with a pan-fried halibut cooked in a butter cream sauce or a burrata salad with roasted peaches, pistachios and cider vinaigrette. Bravo.

Black Hills Chardonnay 2021, Okanagan Valley

$29.90 I 89/100

UPC: 058976503117

The nose is surprisingly fresh in a heat dome year with a green apple and citrus touch. The palate is California-rich, with sweet lemons and ripe pear that entertain, along with some spicy pie crust in the finish. It is much less Chablis-like this year and more Sonoma Coast, but it still delivers. Perfect for spaghetti vongole. Technically, it is hand harvested, hand sorted, whole bunch pressed directly to French oak puncheons and barriques, fermented with wild yeasts, and matured for 10 months on its lees in six per cent new oak.

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Tantalus Chardonnay 2022, Okanagan Valley

$36.50 | 91/100

UPC: 626990067405

Tantalus is famous for its old vine Riesling, but you can also see plenty of love for Chardonnay. These estate vines, clones 95, 96, 76, and 589, date back to 2006 and 2013. A green-gold colour pulls you into a glass brimming with ripe, exotic fruit flecked with orange, roasted nuts, sweet peaches, and ripe ambrosia apples. A tiny sugar bump in a warm year opens the wine up to a broader spectrum of Chardonnay lovers who will still benefit from a lesson in balance and elegance. Watch this bottle disappear in minutes at any gathering.

Liber Estates Rebil Chardonnay 2020, Cawston, Similkameen Valley

$27.99 I 92/100

UPC: 611138445023

The Rebil (Liber backwards) Chardonnay is grown on the west-facing banks of the Similkameen River over a stony, rocky, sandy debris field that sits just below Highway 3, west of Mount Kobau, and only four kilometres from the Nighthawk-Chopaka U.S. border crossing. It is a fabulous exposition for an organic vineyard, once part of the Mariposa Organic Farm, established in 1962, on a cool, wild, and windy site with plenty of sun. Oddly, this wine takes me to Chablis and the Santa Clara Mountains. Its dry, rich, complex front end and the nutty, leesy citrus undercurrent are Chablis-like. In contrast, the nutty, firm, intense palate that is both powerful and fresh is reminiscent of Ridge Vineyard Chardonnay. It doesn’t quite have the polish of those giant wines, but it has the wild, savoury Similkameen character they will never have. Drink or hold.

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Fort Berens White Gold Reserve 2022, Lillooet

$31.99 I 91/100

UPC: 626990118510

This is the best wine we have tasted from Fort Berens since they arrived in Lillooet. It is all Dry Creek Vineyard, Lillooet-sourced and 100 per cent Chardonnay. Previously, this wine had a strong California bent, but we see more finesse this year and terroir. Look for a juicy floral aromatic entry that excites you. The palate has intensity and length but with balance, mixing creamy textures, melon honey, and citrus saline notes with a touch of cream corn in the finish. Warm days and cool nights are the perfect climate for this grape picked at optimal ripeness.

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If you are looking for a classic summer sipper from Europe to surprise your patio guests, Edelzwicker from Maison Martin Jund has been in production in the Colmar region of Alsace since 1630. The latest family iteration has been farming fruit that has been organically certified since 1997. The current dry blend of Pinot Blanc, Muscat, Riesling, and Gewürztraminer, labelled Edelzwicker, is an ode to an ancient but still used term that designates any blending of white AOC Alsace grape varieties, without any indication of percentage. The term Edelzwicker comes from the German words for edel (noble) and Zwicker (blend). On the palate, expect a subtle oily, yellow fruit affair that appears fruity on entry but finishes with a twist of bitterness that pulls it all together. A delicious Old World-style that is food-friendly and currently on sale for $27.97 until the end of the month in a traditional one-litre bottle or roughly $20 per 750 ml.

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•••

Chef David Hawksworth and the Hawksworth Restaurant culinary team are hosting an exclusive pop-up event at Whistler’s Roundhouse Lodge, set on the Valley View patio atop Whistler Mountain. This unique event, not to be missed, offers guests a four-course dinner with a welcome cocktail and wine pairings by Tantalus, featuring Winemaker David Paterson from 4 to 8 p.m. All this while enjoying the stunning views of the summer alpine. Dinner tickets include a full day, unlimited use scenic access pass to the Summer Alpine Experience (value $99) and an invitation for guests to ride the PEAK 2 PEAK Gondola, explore over 50 kilometres of hiking trails, or mount the Peak Chair to the summit to access the Cloudraker Skybridge and the Raven’s Eye. The pop-up costs $199 per person. For more information, including the full menu, and to make online reservations, visit whistlerblackcomb.com.

Wine of the week

Tantalus Once In A Blue Moon Gewürztraminer 2022, East Kelowna Slopes, Okanagan Valley

$21.75 I 89/100

UPC: 626990332183

As a lover of all Alsace wines, winemaker David Paterson has wanted to make a Gewürztraminer since he arrived in Okanagan in 2009. In 2022, by some divine intervention, a tiny parcel of Gewürztraminer grapes became available in southeast Kelowna, and the game was on. The vines have since been transitioned out, so this is a once-in-a-blue-moon bottling. The aromatic profile is all you could ask for if you are a Gewürztraminer fan. Ripe mango, peach, classic Turkish delight, and lychee all swim around the edge of the glass, while on the palate, there are more weighty dried apricots and oranges, suggesting Alsace has moved to southeast Kelowna. Some skin contact adds the bitterness Alsace fans love, but there is a wisp of residual sugar to set that off perfectly. It is definitely Blue Moon stuff.

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Value wine of the week

Le Petit Chat Malin Rosé 2023, Ventoux, Rhone Valley, France

$16.49 I 88/100

UPC: 3430560001693

Le Petit Chat Malin has been around for over a decade and has always been sold at a bargain price. The nose is inviting with rose petals and strawberries, although the intensity fades through the finish. On the palate, look for juicy, light red berry fruit with a twist of garrigue. This is for an everyday patio pink that can sustain large parties and not kill your wallet, and it has the acidity to shine with food. Drink it alone or try it with sautéed prawns, fresh Dungeness crab, or spaghetti Vongole. Great value.

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