Dahlia brings flavours of French, Italian Rivieras to Vancouver

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Dahlia

Where: 833 W. Pender St., Vancouver

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When: 7-10:30 a.m., 11 a.m. to 10 p.m. (Monday to Friday); 7 a.m. to 10 p.m. (Saturday and Sunday)

Info: 604-416-2845. Dahlia-restaurant.ca

Exotic locales — and the food found there — serve as frequent jumping off points for new restaurant inspiration.

For the new downtown Vancouver eatery Dahlia, that inspiration comes from the coastlines of Italy and France.

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“The inspiration for this style of restaurant began through my travels in the Mediterranean,” says Sofia Sayani, director of operations. “I was inspired by the simplicity, refinement and elegance of the dishes and presentation.”

The focus on the riviera affords an “intimate” and “elegant” restaurant and cocktail bar — located within the new AZUR Legacy Collection Hotel  — that features a curated menu of the dishes one might expect during a sunny sojourn in the region.

“(It’s) a place where lifestyle and food and drinks are relaxed and refined,” Sayani says.

The approach to cuisine, with an emphasis on unfussy favourites such as seafood and shareable starters, was designed to mirror the relaxed resort coastline while also feeling right at home in the city. A revolving menu of daily specials to match the changing seasons will freshen the regular menu mainstays.

“This fits perfectly with Vancouver’s relaxed lifestyle,” Sayani says. “Vancouver is also a foodie haven and Dahlia is a great addition to the city.”

The restaurant features a stylish decor that plays with art deco opulence — think: white marble, plush banquets and gilded accents — that draws inspiration from the “charming coastal towns of the French and Italian Riviera,” says Sayani. The lobby restaurant feels elevated, yet approachable.

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Created in collaboration between Sayani and the restaurant’s executive chef, Shyam Longani, the menu was further polished by chef Daniel Kenny to execute and elaborate the menu. What started as a long list of items has been pared down to a collection of culinary “showstoppers,” says Sayani.

Featuring sustainably sourced ingredients from the “farms, fields and oceans of B.C. and beyond,” the menu includes simple starters ranging from a generous bowl of marinated olives ($9) to a classic beef tartare ($28) that features grass-fed beef tenderloin sourced from Two Rivers Meats.

“Hand-cut beef tartar gives the ultimate texture and flavour,” Sayani says. “Our chef then seasons with a shallot vinaigrette, Dijon, caper and freshly chopped herbs. Our dish is then finished off with an egg yolk and miso emulsion, sliced radish and cold-pressed olive oil from Italy.” A shoestring potato garnish adds a welcome crunch.

The burrata and heirloom tomato ($24), featuring a bulb of fresh local cheese surrounded by tomatoes and topped with a drizzle of olive oil and balsamic, is delightfully colourful on the plate, if a bit bland. It could have benefited from a punchier sauce selection.

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As every good meal starts with a bite of bread — in my opinion — the Dahlia brioche ($12) is a must try. With a deep golden crust and a pillow-soft centre, served warm with a sprinkling of salt on top and honey butter on the side, it was a chewy treat.

“It’s a must try,” Sayani says.

When prompted to pick early favourites at the eatery, Sayani pointed to the Tuscan chicken, a marinated and slow-roasted chicken served with Dauphinoise potatoes and vegetables in a copper skillet, as an “extremely popular” dish.

“Our Salmon Wellington is a favourite and features a beurre blanc sauce,” Sayani said.

During a recent visit, I opted to try the rib-eye and seared foie gras ($75).

Sourced from Two Rivers Meats, the dish is designed to provide diners with “the ultimate steak experience,” says Sayani. What that translates into is a beautiful cut of beef, cooked to preference, and served in a simplistic way that allows the meat to shine.

“We hand-cut and cure our rib-eye in house,” Sayani says. “We grill our steak to perfection and finish it with Grade A seared foie gras and a house-made red wine reduction.”

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The steak comes plated with a Dauphinoise potato cake and locally sourced vegetables. If you’re a big fan of table fries, don’t skip an order here. The fries, served with ketchup and mayonnaise were perfectly crispy and salted. Additional side options include garlic spinach ($10), broccolini ($10) and  assorted greens.

For dessert, we tried the two sweet selections from the current menu: a lemon tart ($12); and panna cotta ($12). Both were served in generous portions, and were fresh and flavourful. The lemon tart, with its cloud of Italian meringue, was the favourite.

Dahlia’s food offering is complemented by a collection of craft cocktails, wines and Champagne, all sourced from (yep, you guessed it) Italy and France.

“We feature well-known brands like Ruinart Blanc de Blanc — fresh with fine bubbles — considered the king of Champagne because it’s made with just white grapes, so it’s exclusively made from Chardonnay grapes,” Sayani says. “Also Whispering Angel Rosé, which is a popular brand. We’ve also placed the Rosé in our mini bars in our guest rooms at Azur.”

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Happy Hour is daily from 3-5 p.m., which includes Champagne and Prosecco by the glass. “Happy Hour is a great time to try something new,” Sayani says.

Dahlia is also open for breakfast daily from 7-10:30 a.m. with menu highlights such as blueberry lemon pancakes and lobster Benedict.

“And we will be adding Sunday brunch in the New Year,” Sayani said.

Aharris@postmedia.com

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