food | Vancouver Sun

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The first time I boiled water on my new induction stove, I did what I always did with my old electric range: filled the pot, turned the stove to high, then began my prep, knowing I’d have some time while the water slooooooowly heated up. But this time, I barely had time to pull the mise en place bowls out of the cupboard before the water was merrily bubbling away.

Well. Now this, I thought, is a game changer. In fact, it’s kind of magic.

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If you’ve been dithering about switching to induction, this is a good time to do it. Prices have dropped, putting induction more or less within reach. At the same time, the technology has been refined, making it easier to use. In some cases, you can even pre-set your burner to a precise temperature, say, 180°F for custard, taking the uncertainty out of finicky recipes.

Plus induction is, quite simply, the future, as building codes aim for better sustainability through lower emissions and energy use.

Where natural gas or traditional electric cooktops use thermal conduction to transfer heat from flame to pot or pan, induction uses electric currents to directly heat the cookware itself through magnetic induction.

Unlike traditional electric stoves, induction cooktops are super responsive and can actually get your pan hot enough to sear meat.

And unlike gas ranges, they don’t produce the heat or pollution of natural gas, nor do they require a gas line or carry the same safety risks. When you turn it off, the cooktop is instantly cool; no need to worry about burning your hand, melting a spatula or setting a dish towel on fire.

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All of this is why chefs like Eric Ripert of the three-Michelin-star Le Bernardin in New York or Angus An of Fat Mao and Maenam here in Vancouver love induction.

There are drawbacks, true.

If your cookware is copper or aluminum, you have a spendy shopping trip ahead because only stainless steel and cast iron are compatible with induction. (Luckily, your beautiful Le Creuset cookware loves induction.) The electromagnetic hum can be distracting, and the currents can interfere with some digital thermometers, so you may need to get an old-school analog one. The digital controls can be a bit fiddly to operate, too, especially with wet or sticky hands.

Most of all, induction stoves are still pricy and, if your current range is gas, converting it to electric will be even more costly. (Of course, you can always just get a single portable burner for now.)

But then you make scrambled eggs and they are perfectly soft, tender and custardy, or you sear a piece of fish and it browns just right, or you make a pan sauce and for once it doesn’t break while waiting for something else to cook, or you set something to simmer on the lowest heat—even beans or confit garlic—and know you can walk away without worrying about it burning.

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For the first time, I’ve been able to get ground beef to brown instead of turning that unappetizing grey. My pork chops finally have a great, golden crust. And pasta night is a snap—finally, I can make all the timing for sauce and pasta to work together.

As for cleanup, it’s even easier. Just a quick wipe with vinegar or a glass cooktop cleaner and you’re done.

See? Magic.

Recipe: Silky Squash Soup

This soup is easy, comforting and super versatile, and if you use an induction stove, you can let it simmer on low for ages without risk of it burning. Serves 4

• 2 to 3 Tbsp butter (or if you prefer, vegetable or olive oil)
• 1 medium to large onion, diced small
• 1 Tbsp finely chopped fresh sage leaves (see note)
• 1 medium butternut, kuri or kabocha squash (about 2 to 3 lbs), peeled, seeded and chopped into 1-inch pieces
• 4 cups chicken or vegetable stock
• Salt and pepper to taste
• Optional garnishes: plain yogurt or crème fraiche, croutons, crispy fried sage leaves, chopped parsley, a swirl of chili crisp or herb oil, toasted pumpkin seeds

Melt the butter in a soup pot or Dutch over medium heat. Add the onions and cook until soft and translucent. Stir in the chopped sage (or see below for other options), then add the squash and cook for a few minutes until it begins to soften.

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Add the stock and bring to a lively simmer, then turn down to medium-low and cook until the squash is very tender, about 20 to 25 minutes.

Remove from heat and either use an immersion blend or transfer to a blender or food processor and purée until smooth and silky. Garnish as you like and serve with warm crusty bread.

Note: If you prefer, you can also add a teaspoon of grated fresh ginger, a teaspoon of chopped fresh rosemary or thyme leaves, and/or a pinch of crushed red pepper flakes. You can also replace the herbs with a tablespoon or two of mild curry powder instead.

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