Grazing and sipping in the Okanagan Valley

Article content

Before it was wine country, the Okanagan Valley was a great big orchard, keeping the country supplied with apples, peaches, cherries and plums. Before that, it was ranch country, producing excellent beef and famous cowboys. And long before that, it was the bountiful home of the Syilx people, whose four food chiefs kept them well fed with salmon, berries, game and abundant wild plants.

Article content

All of which goes to say that the Okanagan Valley is a terrific place to dine.

Article content

A little ironically, this was not always the case, despite the bounty of fresh local produce. Most of it was shipped to other markets, not local restaurants. It didn’t help that, for a long time, wineries couldn’t legally sell food with a glass of wine. After all, until the 1990s, no one really expected B.C. to be a serious wine-producing region, so liquor laws made no provision for winery restaurants.

Then chef Michael Allemeier came to Mission Hill, planted his herb garden and opened The Terrace to widespread acclaim. Chef Roger Sleiman followed a little while later with Old Vines Restaurant at Quails’ Gate, connected with even more farmers, and garnered further acclaim.

Other chefs, living in cities like Vancouver, Calgary and Toronto, began to take notice and couldn’t resist the draw of a beautiful destination with a slower, gentler pace, exceptional ingredients and growing wine culture.

The fact that porcinis and asparagus both grow wild here was temptation enough.

Today there are outstanding winery restaurants, from 50th Parallel in Lake Country to Nk’Mip Cellars in Osoyoos and Monte Creek over on the outskirts of Kamloops. But there are also hotel restaurants, standalone restaurants, food trucks, brew pubs, cafés, bakeries and markets selling house-made tacos, samosas and smoked meats.

Article content

Article content

Over the past couple of years, I was lucky enough to visit many of them, along with my co-author Dawn Postnikoff, when we were doing research for our new cookbook, Okanagan Eats: Signature Chefs’ Recipes from British Columbia’s Wine Valleys, which has just been published by Figure 1.

One thing we quickly learned is that there is a certain distinctively Okanagan style of cuisine. It’s vaguely Mediterranean-ish, but with local ingredients and flavours, designed for grazing, preferably alongside a glass or two of wine.

Mostly it’s about things served on a bread-y base, with lots of variations on hummus and similar dips, as well as flatbreads, pizzas, bruschettas and creative charcuterie plates served, preferably, with a mound of crostini.

For instance, Cannery Brewing makes a hummus with preserved lemons. Monte Creek’s version has Moroccan spices. And, at Frankie We Salute You, chef Brian Skinner makes a roasted beet baba ghanoush that is perfectly pretty in pink.

Meanwhile, at the Modest Butcher over at Mt. Boucherie Estate Winery, chef Dan Carkner has a popular dish actually called “Things on Toast,” the toppings varying with the seasons, like the summery peaches, whipped goat feta and thyme gastrique in the book.

Article content

Lauretta Coccaro at La Bussola has a snap pea bruschetta that truly is a snap to make. Kelly Hale and Linda Murray, who make the Taste of the Okanagan preserves, also make an “autumn bruschetta” topped with roasted squash and goat cheese. The team at Fitzpatrick winery makes a baked brie with haskap-jalapeño. Both are perfect for this time of year.

There are fancier variations, too, like the duck confit on waffles at Hillside Bistro or the apple and brie “tart” from Backyard Farm or the beef tartare served with light-as-air tendon chips at the gorgeous Restaurant at Phantom Creek winery. Mind you, you’ll have to go to the winery to try that last one.

Actually, we think that’s a great idea. The best way to taste the food of the Okanagan is in the Okanagan, where the produce has been plucked from a tree or vine just a few metres away, the winemaker might be sitting at the next table and the chef might just come out to chat with you.

It’s the best way to dine, really, to enjoy something tasty on a piece of bread with a glass of wine and some of the most beautiful scenery anywhere on the planet.

Article content

Roasted Beet Baba Ghanoush

Baba ghanoush is a Levantine appetizer typically made with eggplants roasted over an open flame. Here, the smoky eggplant is mixed with beets, which add a sweet earthiness as well as a pretty pink hue. Instructions have been provided for roasting eggplant in the oven, but you can do as the team at Frankie We Salute You does and grill the eggplant over charcoal. Simply score the eggplant and grill it on each side until it’s charred. No matter what, it makes the perfect addition for a backyard party.

Makes about 3 cups

Pairing: Spearhead Saddle Block Pinot Noir

Ingredients

Article content

Method

Preheat oven to 375°F. Line 2 baking sheets with parchment paper.

Peel beets in the sink under running water to avoid staining your fingers. Thinly slice to 1/8-inch thickness. Put in a bowl, add canola oil and toss to coat. Spread beets on one of the prepared baking sheets and cover with another layer of parchment paper. (This allows the sugars to caramelize and also provides steam for even cooking.) Roast for 30 minutes or until fork tender.

Using a knife, poke holes all over the eggplant. Place it on the other prepared baking sheet. Roast for 30 to 40 minutes, until browned, slightly wrinkled on the outside and tender on the inside. (A little char on the outside is OK, it’s the inside flesh we want.) Set aside to cool for 5 minutes. Cut it in half and scoop out the flesh. Discard peels.

In a food processor, combine eggplant, beets and the remaining ingredients, except the crackers. Blend until smooth. Season to taste with more lemon juice or salt. Garnish with sliced radish, dukkah spice blend, greens or a drizzle of olive oil (if using). Serve with crackers, pita bread or veggies crudité on a platter.

Article content

Leftover baba ghanoush can be stored in an airtight container in the fridge for 7 days or in the freezer for up to 1 month.

Excerpted from Okanagan Eats: Signature Chefs’ Recipes from British Columbia’s Wine Valleys by Dawn Postnikoff and Joanne Sasvari. Photography by Jon Adrian. Copyright © 2023 by Dawn Postnikoff and Joanne Sasvari. Recipes copyright © 2023 by individual restaurants. Excerpted with permission from Figure 1 Publishing. All rights reserved. No part of this excerpt may be reproduced or reprinted without permission in writing from the publisher.

Article content