In Good Spirits: Complex character

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Think of vermouth as the Stanley Tucci of beverages — elegant and complex, often cast as the supporting actor in a cocktail, but almost certain to steal the show.

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Vermouth is an essential ingredient in spirit-forward classic cocktails like the Martini and Manhattan. But it is also a cocktail in and of itself: a wine that has been fortified with spirits — to about 18 per cent alcohol by volume — and aromatized with herbs and spices such as citrus peel, licorice root, wormwood, cinnamon bark, ginger and vanilla.

We love vermouth’s bittered botanical notes, its lower alcohol content and its versatility, all of which speak to major trends in cocktail culture right now.

Trendy as it is, though, vermouth is actually quite an old beverage. As far back as ancient Greece, wine was infused with herbs to treat digestive disorders. Among those herbs was what the Germans called “vermut,” or wormwood, which is where the drink’s name originated.

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What we know as sweet vermouth (a.k.a. rosso, red or Italian) was invented in 1786 Milan, while dry vermouth (a.k.a. white, bianco or French) was invented around 1800 in the south of France.

More recently, new flavours and hues have been introduced, including amber, gold and rosé, as well as Spanish vermouths, which are aged in oak for deep, rich, caramel and nutty notes.

White vermouth is a natural partner with gin and is most famously used in Martinis and spritzes; red pairs well with whisky and is essential for Manhattans, Negronis and Boulevardiers. But vermouth of any style can also be a sophisticated sipper served simply over ice or lengthened with soda or tonic water.

In B.C., where we have a thriving cocktail culture, a fast-growing craft spirits industry and a wealth of botanicals both farmed and foraged, several local producers are making artisanal vermouths. Here are five local vermouth brands to add to your liquor cabinet.

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Odd Society Bittersweet Vermouth

Vancouver’s Odd Society has long been a leader a in B.C.’s spirits landscape, so it seems only fitting that they would be the first to introduce a vermouth, back in 2014. Their Bittersweet Vermouth is based on an old Italian recipe and made with 25 botanicals including grown-in-B.C. arbutus bark. It’s also picked up numerous awards, including Best in Class and Gold at the Canadian Artisan Spirits Competition 2022 and 2020.

Try it: In a Negroni or Manhattan.

Imperative Dry Vermouth

With the launch of this classic dry vermouth in 2018, British Columbians could finally enjoy an all-local Martini. The result of a partnership between Ampersand Distilling Co and Rathjen Cellars, both in the Cowichan Valley, this vermouth is based on Ortega and Auxerrois grapes, fortified with Ampersand’s vodka and flavoured with wormwood, dandelion root, camomile, marjoram and orange peel.

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Try it: In a 50/50 Martini (half vermouth, half gin).

Esquimalt Wine Co. Rosso Vermouth, Kina Rouge, Dry Vermouth

Victorians Quinn Palmer and Michaela Byl had already created Rootside Soda when they became fascinated with aperitif wines. In 2019, they introduced their Rosso Vermouth, which is made with clover blossom mead, Schönburger and 32 different herbs and spices. A year later, they launched their Dry Vermouth and followed that with Kina-Rouge, which is flavoured with quinine, similar to Dubonnet.

Try it: With tonic water. Make it Spanish style by serving it in a big wine glass with lots of ice and additional botanicals.

Marrow Vermouth

Penticton-based Shawn Dalton makes small-batch dry, sweet and Spanish-style vermouths from Okanagan wines and 26 botanicals, many of them locally grown.

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Try it: Like the Spanish do, chilled and as it comes.

Beaufort Wines Vermouth

This Comox Valley winery’s Italian-style white vermouth features wine from their own Madeleine Sylvaner grapes, fortified with Sheringham vodka and flavoured with 11 botanicals including wormwood, rosemary, juniper, lemon and vanilla.

Try it: Over ice with a citrus twist or in a Vesper Martini (made with both vodka and gin).

The Drive

This spirit-forward cocktail was created by Mia Glanz for Odd Society Spirits.

1 oz Odd Society Prospector Rye Whisky

0.75 oz Odd Society Bittersweet Vermouth

0.25 oz Odd Society Crème de Cassis (black currant liqueur)

Garnish: orange twist and a brandied cherry

Fill a mixing glass with ice. Add all ingredients and stir until the drink is very cold. Strain into a rocks (old fashioned) glass over fresh ice. Garnish with an orange twist and a brandied cherry.

Serves 1.