I’m well aware that as in everything, people have their chowder preferences. Mine is based on those simple chowder lunches with Nanny and our bonding with food, and a large supply of saltines.
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Even though I grew up in landlocked Ontario, I was no stranger to clams. Nanny would regularly open a can of baby clams to make her simple version of chowder.
She would heat the clams and their juice up with milk, add some pepper, serve it with a smidgen of butter on top, and a stack of saltine crackers. The clams were chewy and bland, but the milky broth was deliciously tangy and salty. I would take a clam out of the bowl and study it. What odd creatures these tiny clams were. Nanny was from Nova Scotia and would talk about digging clams as we shared the chowder.
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I actually like the tangy nectar from the clams more than the clams themselves. And because chowder is hot and warming, I think of it as winter food.
I left the Fish House in Stanley Park in 2011 after 17 years there as the executive chef. The chowder was created as a defence against all the crappy, thick and gluey chowders that I’ve had.
The last straw was going to a fish restaurant because I had a hankering for chowder and being served yet another bowl of stodge. I was livid and in a split second the New Fish House clam chowder was born.
The previous Fish House chowder was similar to most other chowders, though nowhere near as bad as many of them. Most high volume restaurants keep their soup hot in a bain marie. Over the course of service, the water evaporates, the soup becomes thicker, gloopier, and the potatoes start to break down.
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I was always on the cooks who served the chowder about keeping it the right consistency and it was a chore.
The opening operations manager insisted that corn be put in it which, to me, was blasphemy.
The new chowder would solve these problems. It started with a base that was made in advance and kept cold. Live Manila clams were steamed to order in it and perfectly cooked potatoes, Arctic surf clam meat and crispy bacon were added. A swirl of cream was the finishing touch. It was barely thickened and was light, yet intense in flavour. This was a chowder I was proud of and it became the most asked for recipe.
I’m well aware that as in everything, people have their chowder preferences. Mine is based on those simple chowder lunches with Nanny and our bonding with food, and a large supply of saltines.
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Clams: You can use frozen or canned clams. I used a whole 400g box of frozen Arctic surf clam meat, coarsely chopped in The Fish House Clam Chowder. The orange tinged meat is very attractive but they are also the chewiest choice. In the Former Fish House Clam Chowder, I used a 340g bag of frozen clam meat. If you’re using canned clams, a 284g can will give you 142g of meat and three cans is more than enough for either recipe. Drain and save the liquid to use as part of the clam nectar measurement.
Potatoes: I like to cook the potatoes separately because I don’t like the way they fall apart and change the texture of the chowder when cooked in it. Peel or not as you prefer, transfer to a pot, add water to cover and cook over medium heat until just tender. Drain and reserve.
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Clam nectar or juice: Comes in bottles or cans, you will find it in fish stores and the canned fish section of grocery stores.
Freezing: Cornstarch thickened soups don’t freeze well. If you wish to freeze, The Former Fish House Clam Chowder minus the cream will thaw well. Add the cream when the chowder has been heated.
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1 pound (500 g) fresh Manila clams or other fresh clams that are available to you
1 cup (250 mL) dry white vermouth
3 cups (750 mL) clam juice or nectar, heated
2 cups (500 mL) diced onion
2 cups (500 mL) diced celery
1 cup (250 mL) whipping cream
5 Tbsp (75 mL) cornstarch
5 Tbsp (75 mL) water
Choice of clams (see Chowder Notes)
4 slices good quality bacon, cooked until crisp, crumbled
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2 large Yukon Gold potatoes, diced and cooked
Salt and pepper
Place the vermouth and Manila clams in a large pot. Cover and steam over high heat until the clams open. Strain the liquid from the clams and return the liquid to the pot. Let the liquid reduce by half over high heat. Add the clam nectar, onion and celery. Bring to a boil and add the whipping cream. When the mixture returns to a boil, stir the cornstarch and water together and whisk into the mixture. Simmer for 5 minutes. Add the clams and potatoes. Heat through and season to taste. Ladle the soup into bowls and garnish with the Manila clams and bacon.
Makes approximately 8 cups (2 L)
4 slices good quality bacon, chopped
4 Tbsp (60 mL) unsalted butter
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1/2 cup (125 mL) diced onion
1/2 cup (125 mL) diced celery
1/2 cup (125 mL) diced carrot
5 Tbsp (25 mL) all purpose flour
3 cups (750 mL) clam juice or nectar, heated
2 large Yukon Gold potatoes, diced and cooked
1 cup (250 mL) corn kernels, fresh or frozen
1 cup (250 mL) whipping cream
Choice of clams (see Chowder Notes)
Salt and pepper
Fry the bacon in a large heavy pot over low heat until crisp. Add the butter and when melted, stir in the onion, celery and carrot. Sauté until the onion is translucent. Add the flour and stir it in well. Slowly whisk in the clam juice ensuring that there are no lumps. Bring to a boil, reduce to a simmer and cook for 10 minutes.
Add the potatoes, corn, cream and clams. Heat through and season to taste.
Makes approximately 8 cups (2 L)
Source: vancouversun.com
