Kasey Wilson: A toast to toast

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Toast is typecast as a humble breakfast staple, but in the hands of a skilled chef or a creative cookbook writer, it can be positively elegant — and delicious.

Chef de Cuisine Scott Korzack is demonstrating that at Giovane Bacaro, the Fairmont Pacific Rim’s new Northern Italian-inspired wine-cicchetti bar. Pronounced chee-KET-eeh, cicchetti are Venice’s answer to Spain’s tapas, and Bacaro’s offerings include anchovies served on buttered crostini that has been toasted to perfection.

Barbara Scott-Goodman, meanwhile, takes toast seriously in Wine Time: 70 Plus Recipes for Simple Bites That Pair Perfectly with Wine. Beautifully photographed by Vancouver native Jennifer May, the book is a carefully curated compendium of recipes, many of them toast-friendly.

“Bruschetta, crostini, or toasts — whatever you want to you call them — are a favourite appetizer to serve for all occasions,” Scott-Goodman writes. “When bread is grilled over a fire or on a grill pan or baked in the oven its flavour and texture are enhanced, and any topping you might want to add will taste even more delicious.”

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My top tip for delicious toast is to start with a sturdy baguette or an artisanal loaf such as ciabatta or sourdough. My favourite local sources include Savary Island Pie Company in West Vancouver and Bad Dog Bakery in North Vancouver.

Scott-Goodman recommends cutting the bread into 1/2 inch slices and brushing both sides with olive oil. Here are her instructions for three toasting methods. When the toast is done, you may wish to rub one side of each slice with the cut side of half a garlic clove.

Grill: Prepare a medium-hot fire in a charcoal barbecue or preheat a gas grill to medium-high. Arrange slices in a single layer on the grill rack and grill, turning once, until golden brown, crispy and slightly charred around the edges, two to three minutes per side.

Grill: Heat an ungreased stovetop grill pan over medium heat. Arrange slices in a single layer on the pan and grill, turning once, until they are golden brown, crispy, and slightly charred around the edges, four to five minutes per side.

Oven: Preheat the oven to 450°F. Arrange the slices in a single layer on a baking sheet and bake, turning once, until golden brown and crispy, about three minutes per side.

Figs with Serrano Ham & Basil

This terrific no-cook hors d’oeuvre requires little more than fresh figs, Serrano ham and fresh basil leaves. You can substitute other fruits such as peaches, nectarines or plums for the figs. A platter of warm toast is a welcome accompaniment. These sweet and salty bites taste great with Prosecco or Chianti. Adapted from Wine Time by Barbara Scott-Goodman.

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12 small ripe figs, halved

1 tsp (5 mL) sherry vinegar

1/2 tsp (2 mL) sugar

1/4 tsp (1 mL) ground cumin

4 oz (125 gr) thinly sliced Serrano ham

24 small basil leaves

In a large bowl, toss the figs with the vinegar, sugar and cumin and let stand for 10 minutes.

Cut the ham slices in half lengthwise and wrap each piece around a fig half. Top with a basil leaf and secure with a toothpick. Arrange on a platter or plate and serve within 1 hour of making.

Serves 6 to 8

Orange-Scented Olives & Feta Cheese

Look for mild and creamy French feta cheese and serve with warm pita triangles. To match the saltiness of the feta and olives, serve a bright red wine such as Beaujolais or a light white Greek wine like Assyrtiko. Adapted from Wine Time by Barbara Scott-Goodman.

1 cup pitted black olives, such as kalamata, drained

3 garlic cloves, peeled and smashed

1/2 cup (125 mL) extra-virgin olive oil

1 Tbsp (15 mL) fresh orange juice

1 Tbsp (15 mL) orange zest

1 tsp (5 mL) chopped fresh rosemary, plus more for garnish

1/2 tsp (2 mL) red pepper flakes

8 oz (250 gr) feta cheese, preferably French, at room temperature

Freshly ground pepper

Toasted artisanal bread slices or pita triangles for serving

Place the olives, garlic, olive oil, orange juice, orange zest, rosemary, and red pepper flakes in a medium saucepan and cook over medium-low heat, stirring occasionally, until the garlic is sizzling and golden, about 10 minutes. Serves with toast.

Serves 6

Kitchen Hack: Removing Olives from Narrow Jars

That seldom-used melon baller in your kitchen drawer can simplify a frustrating task. Use the larger scoop to retrieve olives from the jar and the smaller one to scoop out capers. As a bonus, the excess brine drains through the scoop’s perforations.