Kasey Wilson: Neil Taylor’s tagliatelle with clams relies on great ingredients

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Since my first visit in the 70s, Kelowna has improved in every way. The largest and liveliest of the Okanagan cities, Kelowna is a convenient base from which to explore the Okanagan Valley.

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For those with a nose in search of New World Vineyards, blue-green lakes and locally grown quality ingredients, the Valley has something to offer in every season.

On a recent visit to Kelowna, our writer’s travel group stayed at the two-year old Hyatt Place Kelowna (close to the Orchard Park Shopping Centre) where rooms are spanking new, parking is free and the breakfast buffet is complimentary — and includes butter tarts.

We visited the stunning CedarCreek Winery for a tasting of Aspect wines followed by a feast in their award-winning Home Block Restaurant, one of the best in British Columbia. Chef Neil Taylor says, “Overdoing and overcomplicating isn’t my way of cooking — but simple does not mean easy.”

I chose Taylor’s tagliatelle with small, sweet Manila clams paired with their 2020 Platinum Jagged Rock. It is one of my favourite pasta dishes which simply relies on great ingredients — fresh clams, Italian pasta and good wine. Typically, pasta and clams are, as an Italian once told me, peasant food.

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Manila clams were accidentally introduced from Japan to Washington state in the 1920s in shipments of oyster seed, Manila clams can be found from British Columbia to Northern California, thanks to sustainable farming practices in the Pacific Northwest that are not environmentally threatening. They are one of the most cultivated clams in the world.

Tagliatelle with Clams and Fennel Sausage

Adapted from Chef Neil Taylor’s recipe at Home Block restaurant.

1 ½ lbs Manila clams, scrubbed and rinsed in cold running water

1 lb good-quality Italian tagliatelle (linguine or spaghetti)

½ cup olive oil (more for drizzling)

4 garlic cloves, minced

2 tsp fennel seeds, crushed in a mortar & pestle

½ tsp crushed (hot) red pepper chili

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8 oz mild fennel sausage, casings removed

1 bulb fennel, cored and finely chopped, reserve fennel fronds/herb and chop them to use later

1½ lbs Manila clams, scrubbed and rinsed in cold running water

3 tbsp butter, cold and cubed

1 cup white wine

½ bunch flat leaf parsley, roughly chopped

Salt to taste

½ lemon

In a large pot of boiling water, cook the tagliatelle until just al dente, then drain.

In a heavy skillet, heat olive oil over medium-high heat. Add garlic and sauté for 2 to 3 minutes, or until softened, then fennel seeds for another minute. Add the chili, fennel sausage, and cook for 3 to 4 minutes, stirring occasionally to break up the sausage.

Add the chopped fennel bulb and cook until lightly caramelized. Add clams, butter and white wine and turn the heat up the heat, cover the pan and cook, shaking the pan occasionally for 2- 3 minutes. All clams should be open — discard any that aren’t.

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Add the tagliatelle and chopped parsley to clams in skillet and season with salt and pepper.

Toss over moderately high heat until tagliatelle absorbs some of the juices.

Transfer tagliatelle and clams to warm shallow bowls, finish with a drizzle of olive oil and

add a squeeze of lemon juice.

Serves 4.

Manila Clam Chowder

A steaming bowl of clam chowder is real British Columbia comfort food. Fresh parsley adds a bright and refreshing touch.

4 lbs (2 kg) Manila clams, scrubbed and rinsed in a sinkful of cold water

1 cup (250 mL) water

1 cup (250 mL) dry white wine

3 garlic cloves, minced

1 bay leaf

½ cup butter, divided

1 cup (250 mL) each: chopped onion, chopped celery, chopped carrot

4 garlic cloves, chopped

1 tsp dried thyme

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1 tsp dried tarragon

½ tsp ground white pepper

6 cups cubed peeled potatoes

3 cups half & half (half milk and half cream)

1 cup milk

2 tbsp cornstarch

½ cup minced fresh parsley

In a large stockpot, place clams, water, wine, garlic and bay leaf and cover with a lid. Bring to a boil over high heat, reduce heat and to medium and steam the clams until they open, about 8-10 minutes.

Remove the lid and set the clams aside to cool. Strain the clams and reserve the cooking liquid. Remove the clam meat from the shells and reserve.

Melt 4 tablespoons of butter in a large pot. Add onion, carrot, celery and garlic and sauté over medium heat for 5 minutes. Add herbs, reserved cooking liquid, pepper and potatoes; cover and continue to cook for 10 minutes or until potatoes are just tender. Add the half and half.

In a small bowl, blend milk and cornstarch together. Stirring briskly, add cornstarch mixture to the chowder and continue stirring as the chowder thickens slightly. Add reserved clams and heat through. Keep warm over very low heat; do not let boil.

Just before serving, stir in fresh parsley.

Garnish each serving with ½ tablespoon of remaining butter.

Serves 6 as a main course, 8 as an appetizer.

Kitchen hack: Use a large, deep skillet when steaming clams — the wider the skillet, the more evenly shellfish will cook.