Recipe: Pot au Feu | Vancouver Sun

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Second to food, my passion is film. This year, I attended 20 films at the Vancouver International Film Festival (VIFF).

My late dear friend Betty Verkuil had been responsible for PR at both the Toronto International Film Festival (TIFF) and VIFF. Betty was a movie buff. While I was an addicted moviegoer, she was a movie critic. When the credits rolled, she was familiar with all the actors, producers, sound people, etc., and knew each of their histories.

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At each of the 20 films, I missed Betty’s voice in my ear. The delicious The Pot-au-Feu (a French beef stew) was one of my favourite films at VIFF this fall. (To be released in North America as The Taste of Things.)

Betty would have given me the lowdown on actors Benoît Magimel and Juliette Binoche and told me that this mouth-watering film was adapted by the director from the gourmand and author Marcel Rouff’s 1924 novel The Life and Passion of Dodin-Bouffant, Gourmet. Instead, I did my homework.

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In honour of the film, and my sorely missed friend Betty, here’s a recipe from Chartwell, one of the city’s best restaurants in the Four Seasons Hotel back in the day:

Market Pot au Feu

This is a good example of the blending of ethnic and regional cuisines in the Pacific Northwest. Serve with steamed jasmine ice. If jasmine rice isn’t available, basmati is the closet substitute, but almost any other long-grain rice will do. However, the flavour, aroma and texture will be different.

Homemade stocks are easy to make and can be frozen for future use. Canned broth may be substituted for stock in most recipes, but it should be used with discretion because many of these products are salty.

Homemade Chicken Stock

To make chicken stock: Place about 4 lbs (2 kg) chicken pieces (backs, wings, necks and the remains of a roast chicken) in a large pot. Add 2 onions peeled and halved, 2 whole carrots, 2 whole celery stocks, 1 bay leaf, a handful of parsley sprigs, 6 crushed peppercorns, 1 teaspoon dried thyme and 1 teaspoon salt.

Pour in about 4 litres water or enough to cover the ingredients by 1 inch. Bring to a boil and reduce heat and simmer gently, partially covered for about 5 hours, skimming off any foam that rises to the surface for the first 30 minutes or so.

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Strain through several thicknesses of cheesecloth and let cool, uncovered.

Makes 3 quarts.

Pot au Feu

6 tbsp (90 mL) minced fresh cilantro

4 tbsp (60 mL) minced fresh

4 chicken thighs, skinned, boned and cut in half

1 lb boneless veal shoulder, cut into 2-inch chunks

2 ducks 3-4 lb (1.5-2 kg) each, cut into serving pieces

3 tbsp (45 mL) vegetable oil

1/2 cup (4 oz) butter

1 red Spanish onion, sliced

3 garlic cloves, crushed

8 whole green onions

1/2 red bell pepper, diced

1/2 yellow bell pepper, diced

8 cups (2,000 mL) chicken stock

1 zucchini, cut diagonally into 1/2-inch slices

1 pattypan squash, cut diagonally into 1/2-inch slices

8 baby corn on the cobs

Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste

4 tbsp (60 mL) chopped fresh garlic chives

8 oz (1/2 lb) fresh shiitake mushrooms, sliced

Combine 3 tablespoons of cilantro with thyme in a small bowl. Place chicken, veal and ducks in a non-aluminum baking dish, pat herbs all over them and cover with plastic wrap. Refrigerate overnight.

Preheat oven to 350 F. In a heavy skillet over high heat, heat oil and sear chicken, veal or duck in batches, browning all sides. Remove from pan and set aside.

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Clean skillet and place over medium heat. Melt half of butter in pan. Add red onion, garlic and green onions. Sauté until onions are translucent but not browned. Add peppers and chicken stock. Bring to a boil, reduce heat and simmer until liquid is reduced by half.

In a large ovenproof casserole, alternate layers of chicken, veal and duck with vegetables, seasoning each layer with salt, black pepper, chopped garlic chives and remaining cilantro. Pour the onion stock mixture over all, then add shiitake mushrooms and remaining ¼ cup butter.

Cover and bake in preheated oven for 1 hour or until the meat and vegetables are tender, skimming foam and fat as necessary.

Serves 8.

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