Recipes: Mushroom main dishes well worth their flavour to savour

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In my recent columns I’ve been sharing ways to eat well and less expensively.

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We’ve all done the double-take in looking at food prices, especially for protein. I don’t look at this as a hardship, but as a learning opportunity.

I recently ate my way through my fridge freezer and shared it on my Instagram feed. There were enough bits and bobs left from other food projects to make 16 meals for two people. I was pretty surprised by this, as normally it would have gone to waste.

In the spirit of more for less, I’m offering delicious and easy ways to make mushroom main courses, using fresh mushrooms that I see frequently but rarely buy. I figured that if I’m passing them over, you are, too.

There are king oyster mushrooms that look look they came straight out of a fairy tale, cute clusters of beech AKA shimeji mushrooms, frilly oyster mushrooms and velvety shiitake; all different in flavour and texture, and all add a deep stroke of umami to anything they’re added to. It’s worth getting to know them.

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Mushroom notes:

• Some of the mushrooms in these recipes grow in clusters. The bottom part should be cut off and the individual mushrooms separated.

• You can substitute any of the more unusual mushrooms called for with button or cremini mushrooms.

• The enemy to good mushroom browning is heat that’s too low and a pan that’s too small. Browning equals flavour. Use a large, heavy frying pan and high heat, cooking the mushrooms in batches to give them room.

Soy-braised mushrooms with Thai basil

This is not a saucy dish and the mushrooms are intensely flavoured from the seasonings. Serve with rice and a stir fried green.

2 tbsp (30 mL) neutral vegetable oil

6 thin slices fresh ginger

6 cloves garlic, halved

1 lb (500 g) king oyster mushrooms, cut crosswise into bite-size pieces

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1/2 lb (250 g) fresh shiitake mushrooms, stem removed, halved

1/4 cup (60 mL) Chinese cooking wine

1/4 cup (60 mL) soy sauce

1/2 cup (125 mL) water

1 tsp (5 mL) sugar

1 cup (250 mL) Thai basil leaves, loosely packed

1 red Thai chili, thinly sliced (optional)

1 tbsp (15 mL) Asian roasted sesame oil

1 tsp (5 mL) roasted sesame seeds

In a heavy, 12-inch (30 cm) frying pan or wok, heat the vegetable oil over high heat. Add the ginger and garlic and stir fry until the garlic turns golden. Add the mushrooms; stir fry for 2-3 minutes until they soften slightly. Add the wine and let it evaporate. Add soy sauce, water and sugar. Bring to a boil and cook, uncovered for 8-10 minutes until mushrooms are lightly glazed with sauce. Remove from the heat and stir in the basil, chili and sesame oil. Sprinkle with the sesame seeds and serve immediately.

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Make 4 servings when served with side dishes.

Mushroom ragout with paprika and sour cream

This is a delicious, one-dish meal. Serve with hearty bread if you like.

2 tbsp (30 mL) extra-virgin olive oil

1 lb (500 g) fresh button mushrooms, thickly sliced

1/3 lb (150 g) brown beech or shimeji mushrooms, trimmed

3 tbsp (45 mL) unsalted butter

2 cups (500 mL) thinly sliced leek, white and light green parts only

1/2 cup (125 mL) finely diced onion

3 cloves garlic, minced

2 tbsp (30 mL) sweet paprika

4 cups (1 L) water

1 lb (500 g) Yukon gold potatoes, peeled, cut into 1-inch (2.5 cm) cubes

1 cup (250 mL) carrots, peeled and cut into 1/4-inch (0.6 cm) slices

1 tbsp (15 mL) tomato paste

1 tsp (5 mL) salt

1/4 tsp (1 mL) caraway seeds

1/4 cup (60 mL) chopped fresh dill or 1 tbsp (15 mL) dried dill

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1/2 cup (125 mL) sour cream

Heat 1 tbsp (15 mL) of the oil in a heavy, 12-inch (30 cm) frying pan over high heat. Add half of the mushrooms and cook, stirring, until the mushrooms start to brown around the edges. Transfer to a plate. Heat remaining oil, add remaining mushrooms and repeat.

Melt butter in a large pot over medium heat. Add leeks and onions. Cook, stirring frequently until leeks are soft but not browned. Add garlic and paprika, stirring them into the mixture. Add water, potatoes, carrots, tomato paste, salt and caraway seeds. Bring to a boil and add the mushrooms. Turn to a low boil and cook until potatoes and carrots are soft, about 15-20 minutes. The liquid should just cover the vegetables when finished and be slightly thickened. Stir in the sour cream and dill and adjust the seasoning.

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Makes 4 hearty main course servings or 6 smaller ones.

Mushroom and green bean curry

A simple curry to serve with rice or flatbread. Roasted cauliflower is a nice accompaniment to this.

1 lb (500 g) small button mushrooms, halved

2/3 lb (150 g) oyster mushrooms

1 tsp (5 mL) salt

1/2 tsp (2.5 mL) ground turmeric

2 tbsp (30 mL) neutral flavoured oil

1/2 tsp (2.5 mL) black mustard seeds

1/2 tsp (2.5 mL) whole fennel seeds

1 serrano chilis, finely chopped

1 1/2 cups (375 mL) thinly sliced onion

2 tsp (10 mL) ground coriander seed

1 14 oz can full-fat coconut milk

1 1/2 cups (375 mL) green beans, cut into 1-inch (2.5-cm) lengths

Place mushrooms in a large bowl and sprinkle with salt and turmeric. Toss well to coat and set aside for 10 minutes.

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Add oil to a 12-inch (30 cm) frying pan or pot and heat over high. When hot, add the mustard seeds. When they pop — a matter of seconds — add the fennel, then onions and chili. Cook until the onions start to brown. Add coriander, stir once.

Add mushrooms and accumulated liquid; cook until they soften. Add coconut milk; bring to a boil. Add beans and simmer on low for 10 minutes until beans are tender. Add water if too thick and correct the seasoning.

Makes 4 servings when served with side dishes.

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