So many B.C. wines impressed us in 2022

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Picking our favourite B.C. wines of the year was easy, but those days are long gone. So many wines deserve to be on the list, all we can do is recognize a small sample. Today we note the diversity of B.C. wines with some of the labels that impressed us in 2022.

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Let’s get started in alphabetical order.

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B.C.’s Iconic Wineries, owned by Anthony von Mandel, continue to set a level of excellence for all Canadian wineries. The 2020 Jagged Rock Syrah brilliantly leads the Mission Hill Terroir Series; Kelowna’s Martin’s Lane 2018 Simes Vineyard Pinot Noir is sublime; 2019 CheckMate Artisanal Winery Opening Gambit Merlot is a Golden Mile treat; Liquidity 2019 Cabernet Franc is a savoury star; Road 13 2020 Syrah is a trip to the Rhone, while the CedarCreek 2019 Platinum Pinot Noir series marks the unfolding story of the northern Okanagan Valley.

Black Hills is blossoming under winemaker Ross Wise, and while long noted for its Nota Bene label, we suggest you take note of his Ipso Facto 2020 Syrah red blend and the Black Hills first and very stylish BH Brut Sparkling Wine.

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Blue Mountain Vineyards, an Okanagan Falls pioneer, excels in making Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, and sparkling wines. Their Blanc de Blancs 2013 R.D. Méthode Traditionelle and the N/V Gold Label Brut are outstanding for the price. Their new single vineyard series featuring several Chardonnays and Pinot Noir is well worth exploring.

LaStella is a hidden treasure on the Osoyoos West Bench. Espressivo 2019 leads a lineup of Tuscan-inspired wines made by Severine Pinte. In this case the Miscela is 32 per cent Cabernet Franc, 31 per cent Cabernet Sauvignon, 27 per cent Merlot, and 10 per cent Sangiovese. Steak Florentine, anyone?

Le Vieux Pin under winemaker Severine Pinte is blending classic French knowledge and techniques into south Okanagan terroir with stunning results such as her 2019 Syrah Cuvée Classique.

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Meyer Family Vineyards operates out of Okanagan Falls, where winemaker Chris Carson employs minimalist techniques making Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. Label stars include the 2020 Pinot Noir Old Block McLean Creek Vineyard and the 2020 Chardonnay Micro Cuvée Old Main Rd Vineyard.

Phantom Creek Estates and winemaker Mark Beringer boast a collection of organic vineyards in the south Okanagan and the Similkameen Valley. Its latest Cuvée N° 24 is a triumph of flavours and finesse. Legendary Alsace winemaker Olivier Humbrecht consults on Phantom’s white wines, none better than the magical Phantom Creek Estates Pinot Gris that rivals his French versions.

Painted Rock Estate established itself on the Skaha Bench just south of Penticton on what once was the largest apricot orchard in the British Empire. The 2019 Red Icon blend is the flagship and is an intriguing study in French wine-growing and Okanagan terroir. The Cabernet Franc and Syrah are equally impressive labels you can age.

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Tantalus Vineyards in East Kelowna is home to a B.C. treasure, Tantalus 2019 Old Vine Riesling. It needs no further introduction. Close behind is the 2019 Blanc de Blancs Chardonnay, a sparkling wine as bright and effervescence as the stars, and it is made in British Columbia.

Unsworth Vineyards is a Vancouver Island star shaping the future of Chardonnay and Pinot Noir in the Cowichan Valley. Look for the 2020 Chardonnay and the 2020 Saison Vineyard Pinot Noir. And a few more …

• Foxtrot Pinot Noir Raisin d’Etre Vineyard 2020, Okanagan Valley

• Fitz Reserve Blanc de Blancs Sparkling Wine 2018, Okanagan Valley

• Maverick Estate Winery Bush Vine Syrah 2019, Okanagan Valley

• O’Rourke Family Estate Waiting For You Pinot Noir 2019, Lake Country

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• Quails’ Gate Stewart Family Reserve Chardonnay 2019, Okanagan Valley

• Terravista Albariño 2021, Naramata Bench, Okanagan Valley

• Clos du Soleil 2019 Signature, Similkameen Valley

• Hillside 2018 Merlot Hidden Valley Vineyard

Weekend wine picks

Hillside Heritage Series Syrah 2019, Naramata Bench, Okanagan Valley, British Columbia, Canada 

$32 I 90/100

UPC: 626990053538

This 20-year-old Syrah comes off Hidden Valley Vineyard, located just south of the winery above the Naramata Highway. The style is dry with firm acidity and a bony Rhone bent. It opens with a raft of black raspberry and spicy clove with an enticing savoury undercurrent through the finish. Elegant and refined, it is a Syrah for contemplation and gastronomy. We love this juicy, fresh style, so alive it speaks to some exceptional terroir. Fine value.

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Spearhead Pinot Noir Saddle Block 2020, Okanagan Valley, British Columbia, Canada 

$33 I 91/100

UPC: 626990441106

Winemaker Grant Stanley is a Pinot-phile of the first order. He is all about respecting the site, something you see in this savoury, dark-fruited Pinot pitching with prominent floral notes and sweet baking spices on the nose. The palate mixes cool plums, blueberries, and a dusting of mineral, earthy tobacco, all over a silky undercarriage. Match this up with grilled root vegetables, salmon, or a duck pizza. Saddle Block Vineyard takes its name from the saddle-shaped site home to the 12-year-old vines growing at 1550’ above sea level in southeast Kelowna.

Corcelettes Talus 2020, Similkameen Valley, British Columbia, Canada 

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$51.90 I 92/100

UPC: 626990231080

Talus is the flagship red at Corcelettes, grown over a classic stony terroir in the windy, wild Similkameen Valley. It is a select block pick, if not a vine-by-vine pick, with dense sweet tannins and savoury black fruit. The mix is 40/35/20/3/2 Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, Malbec and Petit Verdot. The palate is a melody of olives, black fruit, cedar, tobacco and spice, all with balance. It is made to age; five to seven years would be a minimum for collectors.

Black Hills Ipso 2020, Okanagan Valley, British Columbia, Canada 

$55 I 93/100

UPC: 626990061632

Ipso Facto grabbed a Platinum medal at the WineAlign National Wine Awards of Canada with this impressive riff on the classic Australian blend of 55/45 Cabernet Sauvignon/Shiraz. The 2020 vintage is a delight to drink, thanks to its balance and elegance — a trademark of the style of winemaker Ross Wise MW. Look for dense aromas of black and blue fruits, dark chocolate and sweet spice that spill across a silky palate with a complex underscore. Think Penfolds Bin 389 in the south Okanagan. Impressive, to say the least.

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Liquidity Reserve Pinot Noir 2020, Okanagan Valley, British Columbia, Canada 

$60 I 90/100

UPC: 626990456049

The 2020 Reserve comes with a new fruit source, adding a component from the northern end of the Naramata Bench to join estate fruit from the Okanagan Falls G.I. This style is classic New World Pinot, reminiscent of Central Otago, pitching lush, rich black cherry, earth, and cedar spice. Anything mushroom will do here, from pizza to risotto or a portobello burger.

Recipe match: Veggie-packed ‘pleasant’ bowl

This hearty recipe bowl, shared by the team at Fable Diner and Bar, proves that you can have a filling, hearty meal that’s packed with vegetables and features no meat. Mushrooms, cherry tomatoes, kale and more come together with a savoury broth and Miso drizzle for a dish that’s both delicious and nutritious:

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Pleasant Bowl

Gravy

2 cups (500 mL) vegetable broth

1 1/2 tbsp (25 mL) white miso paste

1 tbsp (15 mL) nutritional yeast

1 tsp (15 mL) soy sauce

1/2 tsp (2.5 mL) sriracha

0.7 oz (20 g) white rice flour

Salt, to taste

Put aside 45 mL of the stock and pour the rest into a pot. Bring it to a boil and then take it off the heat. Mix in miso and then put pot back on stove and simmer. Add remaining ingredients except rice flour and the stock you’ve set aside.

Add rice flour to the remaining stock to make a slurry and then pour into pot. Stir until you get the consistency you wish. Should be 5-7 minutes.

Taste, and season with salt as needed.

Miso drizzle

2 tbsp (30 mL) nutritional yeast

1 tbsp (15 mL) soy sauce

1 tbsp + 1 tsp (20 mL) apple cider vinegar

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1 tbsp (15 mL) tahini paste

1/4 cup (60 mL) white miso paste

2 tbsp (30 mL) water

1/3 cup + 2 tsp (90 mL) grapeseed oil

Place all ingredients but oil in a blender and mix until smooth. Slowly drizzle in oil while blending and set aside.

Bowl

7 oz (198 g) Cremini mushrooms

14 oz (396 g) cauliflower

1 bunch kale, cut into bite-sized pieces

7 oz (198 g) broccolini

3 oz (86 g) cherry tomatoes

2 tbsp (30 mL) grapeseed oil

2 cups (500 g) brown rice

1 tbsp (15 mL) toasted sesame seeds

1 green onion

Slice mushrooms and cut cauliflower and broccolini into bite-sized pieces. Heat a skillet to med/high and add oil. Sauteé broccolini, cauliflower and mushrooms until cooked (about 5-7 minutes). Add kale and cherry tomatoes and turn down the heat to medium.

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Add your gravy to the pan and cover. Let steam for about 5 minutes or until heated through.

At the same time, cook rice. I like to rinse the rice and then cook it in a pot with cold water 1 inch above the rice. Bring it to a boil and then turn down to a simmer and cover until water is gone. Take off heat and leave covered for 15 minutes.

Assembly

Make a base of the rice in your favourite bowl. Spoon the vegetable mixture onto the rice. Use a spoon or a squeeze bottle to add the drizzle on top of the vegetable mixture. Sprinkle the sesame seeds and then garnish with finely chopped green onion.

Serves 4.

Recipe match 

There is no need to disturb a pleasant bowl dinner with a crazy match. Enhance this dish with a refreshing Riesling to take on the gamut of flavours. 

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Winemaker’s Cut Bohemian Riesling 2020, Oliver, Okanagan Valley ($24) 

The nose is bright with a mix of tropical and orchard fruit with a green citrus theme that slides into stony mineral saline before finishing just off-dry, making this pleasant bowl extra pleasant.

Monte Creek Ranch Riesling 2021, British Columbia ($19.99)

Full of attractive citrus and mineral with perfect balance, this Riesling has a touch of residual carbon dioxide, letting it stay fresh and ready to please no matter its dinner partner.

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