Top B.C. sparklers take honours at 2022 National Wine Awards

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The judging for the 21st National Wine Awards of Canada wrapped up on June 23 in Niagara, and today marks the beginning of a two-week run in which the results will be released to the public. The first category to be released involves sparkling wine — a class of wine in Canada and across the global wine business enjoying a significant uptick in consumer interest.

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The $33.9 billion world market is predicted to grow to $51.7 billion by 2027. According to the Allied Market Research team, rising global living standards and the “the aspiration of consumers to consume premium quality luxury products” are expected to propel growth. You can add the growing production by wineries that once served the competition’s bubble at their events but now stay on-brand with their label. Researchers also point to more accurate social media strategies to engage tech-savvy young consumers that have yielded increased numbers of sparkling wine netizens.

For our part, we explore some of the top B.C. performers at the Nationals. However, it’s a category still dominated by Ontario producers that took six top ten spots, led by 13th Street 2015 Premier Cuvée ($40). In the stranger than fiction world of Canadian wine, B.C. consumers can order the Premier Cuvée and have it shipped directly to their homes. At the same time, Ontario does not allow any of its 14.5 million citizens to order wine from B.C., literally thumbing its provincial nose at the federal government ruling that allows Canadian wine to move freely across provincial borders. So let’s concentrate on the B.C stars you can see in your glass.

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Number 1 in B.C. this year was the Silhouette N/V Boyd Classic Cuvee, Naramata Bench ($42.99).

The Boyd wines are made by the hardworking, highly talented winemaker Jacq Kemp on the Naramata Bench under the Shillouette Vineyards moniker. Mike and Jackie Boyd own Therapy Vineyards and Guest House and are the money behind the Boyd sparklers that are quickly becoming a sparkling power in B.C. Silhouette has a tasting room outlet at the hipster District Wine Village in Oliver, where you can now taste and buy all the Boyd wines. Harper’s Trail 2019 Chardonnay Sparkling Thadd Springs Vineyard $26.54 was narrowly edged into the No. 2 position in B.C., but it has finished at or near the top of this list the last two years. It is a steal at well under $30. Both wines come with undeniable vibrancy and open a window to the future of high-quality, cool-climate B.C. sparkling wine.

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The B.C. wines scoring 90 points and higher covered a range of styles. The highly decorated La Frenz Winery scored big for its La Frenz 2018 Aster Brut ($38.04), a Chardonnay/Pinot Noir mix that spent 36 months on its lees, building up texture and complexity. A welcomed surprise was the new Tinhorn Creek 2018 Blanc de Blanc ($51.94), an all-Chardonnay sparkler that found favour with all the judges.

From Vancouver Island, Zanatta NV Tradizionale Brut ($31.15) out of the Cowichan Valley is a Pinot Noir Chardonnay cuvée with a lovely leesy undercurrent over-delivers for its price tag. A historic label, Stellers Jay 2017 Mountain Jay Brut ($26.44), hearkens back to one of the original sparkling wines made in B.C. and the first to use the venerable French traditional methode-champenois. We love the price.

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Noble Ridge 2018 The Pink One ($45.99) and Monte Creek 2020 Living Land Sparkling Rosé ($23.99), and the Gray Monk 2019 Odyssey Rosé Brut ($32.40)  provide three diverse offerings showcasing pinks from around the Okanagan valley. Lakeside Cellars 2020 Patriarch Brut Blanc de Blanc ($30.35) is the first Lakeside traditional method sparkler made from 100 per cent Chardonnay from Summerland. The elegant wine is a tribute to co-owner Danielle Dhaliwal’s father, Christopher Jentsch, who died before the wine was completed.

Finally, the 50th Parallel 2018 Blanc De Noir ($97.85) and the Black Hills Estate Winery N/V Brut ($63.45) round out the list pushing the price envelope higher for local sparklers. You’ll find the full category results as the role out online at winealign.com until late July, including The Winery of the Year, the Best Performing Small Winery announcements, and the Top 25 wineries list based on their top-five scoring wines in the competition. Congratulations to all the winners.

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B.C. Top Sparklers at the 2022 National Wine Awards

• 1992 Silhouette N/V Boyd Classic Cuvee, Naramata Bench, Okanagan Valley, ($42.99)

• 1992 Harper’s Trail 2019 Chardonnay Sparkling Thadd Springs Vineyard, Thompson, ($26.54)

• 1991 La Frenz 2018 Aster Brut ($38.04)

• 1991 Tinhorn Creek 2018 Blanc de Blanc ($51.94)

• 1991 Zanatta NV Tradizionale Brut ($31)

• 1991 Stellers Jay 2017 Mountain Jay Brut ($26.44)

• 1991 Fitzpatrick 2015 Fitz Brut ($62.67)

• 1991 Tantalus 2019 Blanc de Blancs Traditional Method ($36)

• 1991 Noble Ridge 2018 The Pink One ($45.99)

• 1990 Gray Monk 2019 Odyssey Rosé Brut ($32.40)

• 1990 Monte Creek 2020 Living Land Sparkling Rosé ($23.99)

• 1990 Lakeside Cellars 2020 Patriarch Brut Blanc de Blanc ($35)

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• ’90 50th Parallel 2018 Blanc De Noir ($97.85)

• ’90 Black Hills Estate Winery N/V Brut ($63.45)

Weekend Wine Picks

Vina Esmeralda Sunset Edition 2020, Catalunya, Spain

$17.99 I 89/100

UPC: 08410113001139

For decades, Vina Esmeralda has been a steady performer for the Torres family. The blend is Moscatel de Alejandría and Gewürztraminer, and the result is a medium-sweet, aromatic Mediterranean white with orange blossoms and mandarin on a creamy, highly spiced mid-palate. The finish, while short, is clean and fruit-packed. Serve cold with a favourite Thai curry.

La Cheteau Crémant de Loire Brut Bio N/V, Loire, France

$23.99 I 89/100

UPC: 3176780037882

This Crémant de Loire opens with apple straw colour and classic Loire floral notes reminiscent of white flowers and dried fruit aromas. Straight and lively attack, with well structured, persistent effervescence, this has a touch of lemon and berry in a translucent, brilliant, pale yellow hue with silver reflection. The fruit is all harvested by hand. The second fermentation is in the bottle before at least 18 months of aging on its lees. Ready to drink. Lacheteau is a family business founded by André Lacheteau in 1987, based in Anjou.

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Clos du Soleil Rosé 2021, Similkameen Valley 

$26.90 I 89/100

UPC: 857088000763

Expect a 60/40 blend of cabernet sauvignon/malbec grapes grown at the home estate and La Côte in Keremeos. It is all farmed organically. The style is bright and tight with perfect tension and that strong mineral dusty, stony Simikameen base under an enticing mix of grapefruit rhubarb, cherries and sea salt—a delicious summer rosé for almost any occasion with or without food.

Pentâge Winery Syrah 2016, Skaha Bench, Okanagan Valley 

$24.35 I 89/100

UPC: N/A

Pentâge Winery continues to hold back its Syrah at the winery, in effect doing the ageing for you, and you sense it as soon as you take a whiff of 2016. Some early reduced rubbery Syrah notes dissipate with air time in your glass or decanter. The tannins are silky, and the palate is awash in savoury, meaty, peppery fruit streaked with sagebrush and cool raspberry. Good value. Four separate ferments using different selected yeasts add to their complexity. It is matured for 18 months in 70 per cent French and 30 per cent American oak. Only 30 per cent of the barrels were new; the rest of the wood was two to four years old. I would love to see a French oak version of this wine.

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Taylor Fladgate Fine White Port N/V, Douro Valley, Portugal 

$22.00 I 91/100

UPC: 5013626111239

The Fine White Port is a mix of white grapes grown mainly on the upper slopes of the Douro Valley; varieties include Arinto, Boal, Codega, Esgana Cão, Folgasão, Gouveio, Viosinho and Rabigato. Each is aged solo in oak vats for about three years. Taylor’s pioneered dry white aperitif port more than 60 years ago under the Chip Dry label, first blended in 1934. The “Special White” Port is a much sweeter version. Look for fresh floral anise with bits of vanilla and caramel throughout. Try it this summer served over ice with a slice of lemon, especially on a hot day.

Recipe match: Spanish-style garlic prawns

Fresh prawns shine in this simple seafood recipe by Victoria-based chef Dan Hayes of The London Chef, who offers innovative cooking classes for home cooks. While this recipe features B.C. spot prawns, which are only in season for a limited time, Hayes says any kind of prawn can be substituted to ensure this delicious dish can be enjoyed throughout the year.

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Spanish-style garlic prawns

12 whole spot prawns or 24 tails, ideally shell on (the shells are the best part)

1 bunch flat leaf parsley

5 cloves garlic, peeled

1/2 tsp (2.5 mL) dry red chili flakes

Baguette

Olive oil

Salt

Pre-heat oven to 400 C. Once heated, turn off and put bread in and leave there while you are cooking — this is an easy way to warm bread. Don’t open oven until ready to serve.

Roughly chop garlic and parsley leaves and combine on your cutting board. Continue to chop together until finely chopped and well mixed — this is called a picada.

Heat frying pan on high heat with a few glugs of olive oil. Carefully put the prawns into the hot oil. Sauté for three or so minutes until starting to turn pink. Add in picada and chili and mix. Season with salt — start with two generous pinches, and then to taste. Turn off heat and as it cools down add a little more olive oil to loosen the sauce. Take bread out of oven and serve right away with lots of cold wine. This is a great dish to put in the middle of table and enjoy family style.

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Note: If your prawns are shell-on, make sure to save them — they can be frozen and used to make stock or soup at another time.

Serves four.

Recipe match

Spot prawns, garlic and chilli are best served with crisp but ripe white wine that can tone down the garlic and heat.

Pazo das Bruxas Albarino 2019, Rueda, Castilla-Leon, Spain $29.99 

Expect a  symphony of lemon-lime, green apple and lemongrass aromas. More fresh fruit is on the palate, balanced by a bitter underscore and a racy mineral finish. Prawns, anyone?

Yalumba The Y Series Viognier 2021, South Australia, Australia $16.99 

A full-throttle lemon verbena, hedge, white pepper, green melon and gooseberry white streaked with apricot. A yin to the prawn’s yang match.

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