Two classic French recipes that will have you dreaming of Paris

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When I received an invitation to spend three weeks in Paris with my friend Jacquie, I was on the phone with my travel agent and had the flight booked before my coffee had gone cold.

In September 2023, Jacquie had settled into a one-bedroom apartment in the tony “Sphere” area in the Sixth Arrondisement of Paris, near Saint Sulpice Church (where Da Vinci’s Code was filmed). I was eager to be in one of my favourite cities during the off-season and I knew I wouldn’t have a better guide to the city than Jacquie.

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Nothing compares with the cafés in Paris. One can sit for as long as they like, overlooking a square or watching a bustling boulevard, sipping Kir (the combination of two simple ingredients: dry white wine made with Aligoté grapes and Crème de Cassis).

One of my favourite meals was at the Musée d’Orsay in the heart of a former train station, where chandeliers hang from a frescoed ceiling. The restaurant is accessible with a museum entrance ticket. Reservations aren’t accepted and tipping is minimal as waiters are paid a salary and don’t depend on gratuities.

I had been to Versailles in the ’70s, but only to visit Napoleon’s summer residence, where he had resided from 1810 to 1814. This time, I took the train from the Montparnasse station in Paris to Chantiers, where Jacquie and I were met by her friend Stephanie, who guided us to the Versailles’ public market.

It’s hard to describe the excitement I felt when I walked through the vibrant market with stalls selling flowers, cheese, fruit and vegetables so fresh that dirt still clung to the carrots.

And then there were the creperies. Crepes are called galettes if savoury and crepes if sweet. I have never tasted such perfection as I did at the Versailles Market.

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Upon my return to Vancouver, I craved the taste of France. Thank goodness for these two recipes:

Le Crocodile’s Classic Alsatian Onion Tart

1 x 9-inch deep dish pastry shell

3 medium onions, sliced

1 tbsp (15 mL) butter

1 tbsp (15 mL) oil

2 slices bacon, cut into 1-inch pieces

1 cup (250 mL) thick béchamel sauce (recipe follows)

Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste

Ground nutmeg to taste

1/2 cup (125 mL) whipping cream

1/3 cup (80 mL) dry white wine

4 eggs

Sauté onions in butter and oil in a skillet over low heat for 20 minutes, stirring frequently, until they’re soft but not brown. While onions are cooking, bring 2 cups of water to a boil in a small pan. Add bacon pieces and cook for 2 minutes. Drain immediately and set aside. Remove onions from heat and béchamel sauce, salt, pepper, nutmeg, whipping cream and white wine. Stir until smooth. Beat in eggs, one at a time. Stir in bacon pieces. Pour mixture into pastry shell and bake at 400 F for about 25-30 minutes, or until pie is golden brown.

Thick Béchamel Sauce

3 tbsp (45 mL) butter

3 tbsp (45 mL) flour

1 cup (250 mL) milk

Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste

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Melt butter in a small saucepan over medium heat. Remove from heat and stir in flour. Return to heat and cook 2-3 minutes, stirring constantly. Gradually add milk off the heat, whisking constantly until sauce is smooth. Cook over low heat for 3 minutes until thick. Season with salt and pepper. Makes 1 cup.

Kir

The drink Kir gets its name from Felix Kir, a mayor of Dijon, France, in the early 20th century, who is said have offered the cocktail to foreign visitors who then brought the recipe home with them. However, it’s also said that the drink was created because red Burgundy was confiscated during the Second World War. Whichever story is true, I’m grateful.

4 1/2 oz (130 mL) Aligoté (or other dry white wine)

3/4 oz (22 mL) Crème de Cassis

In wine glass, add Crème de Cassis to chilled Aligoté. Swirl to mix.

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