Anthony Gismondi: It’s tough to beat France when looking at best value wines

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Looking at the global selection of wines sold in British Columbia, it is becoming increasingly clear that France provides many of the best value bottles in the market.

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Of course, the concept of best value is a bit of a loaded gun, but if we consider it to be the definition of a wine that delivers beyond its price point, you will likely be shopping more often than not in the French section of your local wine shop.

Over-delivering or providing more than consumers expect for the price is doubly difficult in B.C. given the triple whammy of markups, taxes and a suffocating monopoly wholesale system that inflates the price of every wine before you even open the bottle. That said, there are still a few deals, and we tour the French section this week to point out some of the key bargain areas, producers and wines that over deliver for the price.

Almost all deals start in the Rhone Valley — specifically the southern Rhone — and further south in the expansive Languedoc region. The sheer number of vines in the ground helps a mostly reliable, if warm, climate. The Languedoc boasts some 280-plus days of sunshine a year, and from a rain-soaked Vancouver, it is an impressive statement.

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The Southern Rhône is close to 10 times the size of the highly acclaimed northern Rhone and comes with a warmer Mediterranean climate and an endless supply of ever-changing terroir. Châteauneuf-du-Pape is the most famous and pricey appellation, but it’s the basic Côtes du Rhône reds and the Côtes du Rhône Villages reds that account for more than half the Rhône wine production where the bargains live.

Grenache, Syrah, Mourvèdre, Cinsault and Carignan intermix in endless combinations to produce the soft, generous, “bistro-style” wines that over deliver time after time. The whites have recently enjoyed a renaissance blending soft, fruity white grapes like Grenache Blanc, Roussanne, Clairette, and Picpoul with minerality and freshness.

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The southern edge of the Rhône region touches Provence to the east and the Languedoc-Roussillon region to the west. Provence is the home of endless and colourless rosés, while the Languedoc produces immense quantities of red wines from most of the same varieties you would encounter in the Rhone.

There isn’t a lot of mystery about this category of French wines, especially those under $20. I would venture to guess that most readers will be familiar with almost all of the grapes involved. As mention, there is a great deal of sun across the region, so vintages, while they can be specific in some years, most of the time are less of a factor than they are in marginal northern climates — translation you can’t go wrong most years buying southern French wines.

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If you are going to do any homework, it is worth getting to know some of the more important players who turn out high-quality wine year in and year out and are major players in this market.

In B.C. stores, names to look for include M. Chapoutier, famous for his high-end Rhone reds in the North and South with a strong commitment to organic and biodynamic wine production. The Boutinot wines are flying under the radar, but with a philosophy to buy and sell wines that taste delicious, you should check out all of their labels.

Gerard Bertrand is in a class of his own, producing biodynamic wines across more than a dozen Languedoc sub-regions that compete at the same level as Bordeaux and Burgundy, yet at much lower prices. There are almost too many Rhone producers to name, but if you find the labels of Guigal, Meffre, Delas, Jaboulet, Perrin, Pesquie and Louis Bernard, you will be on track to locate bargain reds and whites.

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Weekend Wine Picks 

Louis Bernard Côtes du Rhône Blanc 2020, Rhone Valley, France 

$16.49 I 88/100

UPC: 604174000974

This wine remains delicious and, for the price, a real revelation regarding the potential for inexpensive white Rhone. The blend is a mix of Grenache Blanc, Bourboulenc and Clairette, and it is as juicy and as fresh as it gets for the price. The palate has a floral, mineral, slightly bitter citrus note with a fresh, stony finish — we love the value here, back up the truck.

Paul Mas Grenache Noir 2018, Sud de France, France 

$13.49 I 88/100

UPC: 03760040423517

This wine hits all the marks for value. The price is crazy low; the style is fresh and juicy, so it has wide appeal, and the Garrigue of southern France adds to the raspberry/black cherry fruit flavours and brown spices that heat a finish made for barbecue meats or fall roasted vegetables. Stock up.

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M. Chapoutier Crozes-Hermitage Les Meysonniers Rouge 2018, Rhone Valley, France 

$29.99 I 91/100

UPC: 03391180001749

The vines at Les Meysonniers are a quarter-century old and are farmed 100 per cent organic. The nose is already highly attractive, showing a persistent red and black plum fruit with black pepper spicing and Garrigue dusting. That attack is open and a fine example of how Syrah can be elegant instead of just powerful. Look for a meaty, peppery, savoury affair long into the finish. Chapoutier describes Meysonniers Rouge as a “bistro-nomic” red made for home cooking. We couldn’t agree more.

Domaine de L’Olivette Red 2019, Corbières, Languedoc, France 

$16.99 I 88/100

UPC: 3356201014009

Wow, this is a lot of wine for $18. Fresh. Ripe black cherries and licorice are dusted in poultry spice, with round soft tannins that run through the savoury (Garrigue) finish. It’s so juicy and drinkable you expect the bottle drained before all others at the barbecue, so you better take two and hide your backup bottle. Ready to drink and will work with a variety of grilled barbecue meats and poultry. The property and wine have been certified organic since 1990 — back up the truck.

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Gabriel Meffre Plan de Dieu Côtes du Rhône Villages Saint Mapalis 2017, Rhone Valley, France 

$17 I 87/100

UPC: 3142920024401

Rounded pebbles and alluvial terraces are home to this Grenache/Syrah/mourvèdre blending a perfect growth of the grapes. 2019 is a solid vintage with a September of warm, sunny days and cool nights. Post ferment, the wines spend about six months in vat before heading to the bottling wine. Look for a savoury, spicy, Garrigue nose with a pleasant palate of black fruits and plush textures. A perfect wine for a charcuterie plate, roasted chicken or the classic “Provencal ratatouille.” It is fully ready for fall and at a great price.

Recipe match: Black cod chowder

This soup is a seafood celebration. Create by the team at Honey Salt restaurant at Parq Vancouver, this dish featured clams, mussels, prawns all mingling with beautiful black cod filets. Serve this steaming chowder with crusty bread to mop up all the delicious broth.

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Black cod chowder

4 x 8 oz (226 g) black cod fillets

1/2 lb (226 g) of bacon, cut into ½ inch pieces

12 manila clams

12 mussels

8 prawns

2 cloves garlic, chopped

3/4 cup (180 mL) white wine

4 cups (1 L) heavy cream

6 fingerling potatoes, sliced

6 fennel stalks, rough chopped

Pink peppercorns, to taste

Salt and pepper, to taste

Wash and pat the cod fillets dry with a paper towel. Season the cod with sea salt and cracked black pepper, to taste.

In a large heavy bottomed sauté pan, heat enough oil to coat the bottom over medium-high heat until the oil starts to shimmer. Add cod fillets to the pan, skin side down. Do not overcrowd the pan or the fish will steam. Sear cod until golden brown and caramelized, about 3 minutes per side. Turn the fish out onto a paper towel lined rimmed sheet pan and keep warm.

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Next, sauté bacon lardons in large pan over medium heat until crisp. Remove and reserve bacon grease.

Heat heavy cream in large heavy bottomed pot over medium-low heat. Add the chopped potatoes and fennel to cream and cook over low heat until potatoes start to soften. Remove cooked potatoes and fennel and set cream aside.

Rinse the clams, mussels and prawns thoroughly. Set aside. Coat the bottom of a large heavy deep saucepan with a thin layer of olive oil and heat until oil starts to simmer. Add the garlic to the pan and sauté until garlic begins to brown.

Add the clams, mussels, prawns and wine. Cover the pan. Steam the clams, until they open, about 6-8 minutes. Discard any clams that do not open. Remove seafood and reserve cooking broth. Add broth to cream and stir to combine. Adjust seasoning with sea salt and red peppercorns.

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Place one serving of cod on each warmed individual serving bowl. Divide and place the seafood, potatoes and fennel around the cod. Garnish with crisp bacon lardons. Pour chowder over seafood and serve immediately.

Serves 4.

Recipe match

Creamy seafood chowder is a perfect match for a lightly oaked New World Chardonnay or Chablis. 

Coolshanagh Chardonnay 2018, Okanagan Valley, British Columbia, Canada $36.90 

Baked pear, apple custard, and butter notes give this Chardonnay all its needs to take on a flavourful chowder.

Drouhin Vaudon Chablis Réserve de Vaudon 2018, Chablis, Burgundy, France $40.99 

Fresh mineral, pear and ripe yellow apple notes rule a creamy, spicy palate that will freshen every spoonful of this delicious chowder.